


^o) /qvJ 




A COMPLETE TREATISE 



ART OF DYEIXG COTTON AND WOOL, 



AS PRACTISED IN 

PARIS, ROUEN, MULHAUSEN, AND GERMANY. 

FROM THE FRENCH OF 

M. LOTJIS TJLRICH, 

A Practical Dyer in the Principal Manufactories of Paris, Rouen, 
Mulhausen, etc. etc. 

TO WHICH ARE ADDED 

THE MOST IMPORTANT RECEIPTS FOR DYEING WOOL, 

A3 PRACTISED IN THE 

MANUFACTURE IMPERIALE DES GOBELINS, PARIS. 
BY 

Professor H. DUSSATJCE, Chemist, 

Lately of the Laboratories of the French Government, viz., the Mining, 

Botanical Garden, the Imperial Manufacture of the Gobelins, the 

Conservatoire Imp^riale iiTJIjlij yilll MMjiiifiiiiliii nil ; Professor 

of Industrial Chemistry to the Polytechnic Institute, 

. - Paris. 

PHILADELPHIA: 

HENRY CAREY BAIRD, 

INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, 

406 Walnut Street. 

18G3. 



<? 



Sr 



ll 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863, by 

HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States in 
and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 



**, / "5 1, 



PHILADELPHIA: 
COLLINS, PRINTER. 



CONTENTS 



PART I. 

DYEING COTTON. 

First Section.— DYEING ON THREADS. 

CHAPTER I. 
Dyeing of Rouen. 

PAGE 

Art. I. Mordants — Preliminary operations — Apparatus 25 
II. Rouen receipts for dyeing . . . .31 

III. Stiffening for white cotton — Scotch thread . 58 

CHAPTER II. 

Alsacean Dyes. 

Art. I. Mordants — Preliminary operations — Apparatus 59 

II. Formulae of modern dyes . . . .69 

III. Old shades . . ' 123 

IV. Stiffening for Scotch thread, Ireland thread 

and borderings 135 



IV CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER III. 

German Dyes (Saxony and other Places). 

Art. I. Mordants and acids to brighten . . . 137 
II. Receipts to dye 138 

Second Section.— DYEING ON TISSUES, MUL- 
HAUSEN LUSTKINGS. 

Art. I. Bleaching of tissues of cotton . . . 171 

II. Mordants 173 

III. Receipts to dye 175 

IV. Sizing 202 



CONTENTS. 



PART II. 

PARISIAN WOOL DYEING. 

First Section.— DYEING ON THREADS. 

CHAPTER I. 

Boilings and Compositions . . . 205 

CHAPTER II. 
Receipts to Dye . . . 208 

Second Section.— MERINOS. 

CHAPTER I. 
Mordants and Dissolutions . . 220 



CHAPTER II. 

Receipts to Dye . . . 222 

1* 



Vi CONTENTS. 



Third Section.— DYES ON WOOL FROM THE 
GOBELINS. 

CHAPTER I. 
Scouring — Mordants, etc. . . 227 

CHAPTER II. 

Bleaching and Whites . . . 231 

CHAPTER III. 
Receipts to Dye . . . 233 

Index 259 



EDITOR'S PREFACE. 



The book herewith presented to the pub- 
lic is the work of a practical man, having 
no desire to pass for a savant. His notes 
were made day by day, and reproduced as 
they were inscribed in his memorandum- 
book. It has, consequently, been a difficult 
task to reproduce them in a foreign lan- 
guage without changing their practical form 
or destroying their originality. We have 
endeavored, whilst preserving this original- 
ity, to bring it to the understanding of the 
American manufacturers, and we hope they 
will be able to derive from it as many happy 
results as the French manufacturers have 
done. We have thought it useful to add 
an additional chapter which is not found in 
the original work ; it contains the practical 
receipts of the shop of the Manufacture 
imperiale des gobelins, where, during a 
period of three years, the editor has had 



Vlll PREFACE. 

occasion to observe the different operations 
of dyeing of this celebrated establishment. 
These receipts, without doubt, will interest 
the reader; they have never heretofore been 
published. This establishment belongs to 
the French government, which neglects no 
expense for the improvement of the goods 
manufactured. The dye wools are destined 
to be manufactured into tapestry, and, their 
use being of long duration, the colors must 
be of the greatest solidity. The illustrious 
chemist, Mr. Chevreul, director of the dye- 
ing operations, who has devoted more than 
thirty years of his life to the study of colors, 
does not neglect any exertion to improve 
the products of his avocation. It will, 
therefore, be of great advantage to those 
manufacturers who wish to impart solid 
colors to the wool. We hope our readers 
will approve of the additional chapter; in 
which event the benefits they may derive 
from it will reward us for all the trouble 
we have taken to bring this book before the 
American public. 

THE EDITOR. 

New Lebanon, N. Y., 
June 3, 1863. 



AUTHOR'S INTRODUCTION 



The work we offer to those engaged in the 
industry of cotton and wool is, notwithstanding 
its briefness, the result of long practice in the 
dyeing establishments of Alsace, Normandy, Ger- 
many, and Paris. "We should have been able to 
enlarge our Work, as many have done before us, 
with many more receipts, and to enter into more 
detailed explanations, but have been prevented 
by a few simple considerations which we hope 
will at least be duly appreciated. 

Our book is intended for the foreman, the 
workman, and all others who may be called to 
practise the art of dyeing, and who may wish to 
know what it may contain of most importance. 
"We have, therefore, thought it best to give it the 
form of a manual that can be carried in the 
pocket. 

We have not deemed it necessary to crowd its 
pages with receipts that are impossible or faulty, 



X INTRODUCTION. 

or have become obsolete, but have preferred to 
publish only those that, in our practice, we have 
had occasion to use ourself, or^iave seen executed 
in our presence, and for the accuracy of which we 
can answer. We have taken it for granted that 
we were addressing persons understanding, or at 
least having some idea of the ordinary manipula- 
tions of dyeing works. This idea has permitted 
us to reduce each one of the indicated operations 
to a simple formula which may be understood at 
first sight, and may be under the eyes while ope- 
rating. 

There are many and even voluminous works 
on dyeing, but the most of them are by chemists 
or theorists, or persons who have never them- 
selves manipulated, consequently the formulae 
they give are not complete nor to be relied upon, 
and are oftentimes even erroneous. "We, more 
fortunate than many of our predecessors, have 
for many years practised ourselves, or seen opera- 
tions performed by others, and it is after, having 
marked the advantageous results of these opera- 
tions that we made the notes which have served 
to the redaction of the present formulary. 

The receipts and formulae of the operations of 
dyeing that are found in many works are, as we 



INTRODUCTION". XI 

have said, not reliable^ and erroneous, and it is 
not astonishing. A good formula or a new re- 
ceipt is, we may say, a workshop secret, and the 
one who possesses that secret takes good care not 
to divulge it, or to give incomplete information 
when he is obliged to explain himself. One must 
have prepared baths, and dipped his hands into 
the vats and jars, to know exactly the weights, 
formulae, and results, and have taken good notes 
of the best operations, in order to make a work 
useful to the dyer. 

A last consideration that leads us to give a 
certain value to a practical work on dyeing is that 
in many workshops they meet with good success 
only with certain dyes, upon which they work 
exclusively, and even in many shops there are 
some divisions where they occupy themselves 
with only one speciality, and do not know what 
is being executed in the other departments; 
lastly, to obtain about the same results, the raw 
material, the weights and the manipulations, are 
not the same in every country. Therefore, to 
present a formulary worthy of fixing the atten- 
tion of practical men, it had to be written by a 
person who not only has been through the sub- 
divisions, but, moreover, has operated in different 



Xll INTRODUCTION. 

shops and studied the operations, often very va- 
riable, from one to another, which are executed 
in different countries or in manufacturing centres 
renowned for their ability in dyeing. This is an 
advantage that we have had, from which we have 
tried to be a gainer, and by which our desire is 
to have the public also a gainer. 

THE AUTHOR. 



COMPLETE TREATISE 

ON 

DYEING COTTON AND WOOL 



Part L— DYEING COTTON. 

First Section.— DYEING ON THREADS. 



CHAPTER I. 

- Dyeing of Rouen. 

ARTICLE I. 

Mordants— Preliminary Operations. 
Apparatus. 

1. Amaryllis Mordant. 
Take— 

1 part Nitric Acid, 

2 parts Hydrochloric Acid, 
66 ounces Tin. 

This mordant, like the following, is done in an 
earthen jar of a capacity of four pots. The 
nitric and hydrochloric acids are put immediately 
in the pot, and you add to it the tin by little por- 
tions. 

3 



26 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

2. Violet Mordant. 
Take— 

1 part Nitric Acid, 

2 parts Hydrochloric Acid, 
99 ounces of Tin. 

The tin used is granulated tin. 

3. Iron Mordant. . 
Take— 

31 lbs. of Green Copperas, 
99 ounces Nitric Acid, 
93 " Salt of Tin. 
The copperas and salt of tin are put immediately 
in the pot, and the nitric acid is added only by 
little portions. 

4. Grenat- Sandal Mordant. 
Take— 

11 ounces Hydrochloric Acid, 
22 " Nitric Acid, 
66 " Common Salt, 
66 u Tin. 
The acids and common salt are put immediately 
in the pot, and the tin is added by small portions. 

5. Distillated Indigo. 
Take— 

33 ounces well grinded Indigo, 
29 " Saxony Sulphuric Acid. 



PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS. 27 

Shake the whole in a well dried pot ; leave it all 
night. Heat water in a clean kettle ; put in it the 
indigo thus treated, with 82 J- ounces of wool 
(thread); leave all night near the boiling point; 
next day take the wool out, and wash it well in 
running water; fill the kettle with water, let it boil 
with 12J ounces of crystals of soda to obtain the 
blue of the wool. You can add to the bath 33 
ounces of alum. 

The wool thus decolorized can be used a long 
time; only every time it is used you can add to it 
a handful of fresh wool. 

6. Yellow Chrome Mordant. 

For 206J pounds of wool, use 20| pounds of 
sub-acetate of lead, which is diluted in a bucket 
of warm water ; leave to settle and decant, 

7. Orange Mordant. 

For 206J pounds of wool, use — 
22 lbs. Sub-acetate of Lead, 
22 " Litharge. 
Boil both for two hours in stirring continually, 
and being careful that the solid does not attach at 
the bottom of the kettle. 

8. Green Mordant. 

The green mordant is pyrolignite or acetate of 
alumina, which is bought generally already made. 



28 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

To manufacture it yourself, you take — 
J Pyrolignite of Lead or 15J lbs., 
47 lbs. of Alum, 

3 little cakes of ordinary Chalk or Spanish 
Whiting; the three together weighing 
about 8J ounces. 

All these ingredients are mixed in hot water, 
well shaken, and let to settle. The clear liquid 
is the pyrolignite of alumina. 

9. Turning Oil. 

To cut the oil, the lye must mark 1°, or you 
must use a solution of crystals of soda, marking 
1°. 
Take— 

33 ounces of Oil, 

1 pailful of Water. 
Mix the whole in a pail, and pour several times 
from one pail to another, till the oil is white as 
milk, and skim my. Dyers use generally 1 drachm 
of ordinary oil for every 33 ounces of cotton. 

10. Lime Vat. 
Take— 

26 quarts of Lime, 
75 to 80 measures of Water. 
Shake well ; and always use it clear. 

11. Lime Bucket. 
Take— 

4 pails of Water, 

6 to 7 quarts of Lime. 



PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS. 29 

It can be used muddy. For every pass add 
about 1 quart. Used for amaryllis and other 
colors. 

12. Working Lime Bucket . 

It is made with — 

49 J ounces of Lime, 
16 J ounces of Catechu, 
9 pails of Water. 
Give two turns ; raise on the sticks, and wring 
out to the peg ; for every pass use about 1 quart 
of the lime, but keep the bucket always to the 
same height ; fill it with the water coming from 
the wringing. This bucket is always used for 
cotton passed to the catechu. 

13. Copperas Vat 
Take— 

51 J to 61 lbs. of Copperas, 
40 pails of Water. 
Stir the whole till the copperas is entirely dis- 
solved. 

14. Little-wood Bucket. 

Use for this preparation — 
5 pails of good Wood, 
3 pails of Water. 
After every pass take out a pail, that you keep 
for future wants ; and you add 2 pails by pass. 
3* 



30 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

15. Coction of the Wood. 

Every wood must be cooked twice, and gene- 
rally for the logwood and some other woods you 
want 6 pots of water for every pound of wood. 

16. Coction of the Catechu. 

The time of the coction of the catechu cannot 
be fixed precisely. The best is to keep it boiling 
till it is all dissolved. 

17. Great Bucket. 

Interior wideness from the bottom . 33 inch. 
" " " top 36 u 

Sticks, length 3 ft. 4 " 

These buckets are naturally round, and they 
work in with eight and nine sticks, which make 
16| lbs. for 8 sticks. 

18. Pail or Little Bucket. 

Exterior height . . 1 foot 
Interior " . . 1 " 

It contains about 6 pots, or when they made 
wood baths they contain about 1 pound. 

19. Bar then Jars. 

All which is passed in earthen jars is wrung 
out with little pegs above the jars, so as not to 
lose the liquid. Generally, all the advances for 



RECEIPTS. 31 

the earthen jars are made with ^ of mordant or 

fresh batl 

advances. 



fresh bath, and the balance with water or old 



ARTICLE II. 
Rouen Receipts for Dyeing. 

1. Black. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Handle in a.bath of logwood 33 ounces or two 
pails by pass of 8 sticks; wring out by hand; put 
on sticks immediately; handle to the pyrolignite 
of iron, about 16 ounces by pass; wring out by 
hand ; crisp ; let it raise a few hours, or better all 
night if possible. Handle in the lime — 

4 pails, 

6 pails of Water. 
Give 4 turns; raise on the sticks; wring out 
with the peg ; handle in the wood 

5 pails of good Wood, 
4 pails of Water. 

Sometimes they take only 4 pails of good wood 
with one of little wood; let on this bath one hour; 
raise; add a little pyrolignite with turning oil; 
give a few turns; raise with one hand ; crisp, and 
let it raise all niofht. 



32 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

If you need a blue-black, add a little alum in 
the bath with the pyrolignite and the oil. 

2. Black. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Handle to the catechu in earthen jars 9} pounds; 
put on the sticks; leave all night ; pass to the pyro- 
lignite ; let it raise ; wash ; handle in the lime — 
6 pails, 

4 pails of Water. 
"Wring out with the peg ; handle in the wood — 
6 pails of Logwood, 
3 to 4 pails of Water. 
Then add a little bowl of pyrolignite with a 
little oil; wring out by. hand; crisp; and leave all 
night. 

The blue-black is done the same way, except 3 
pails of wood instead of 6, and, consequently, 5 
pails of water, or 4 pails of water and 1 pail small 
wood. 

3. Amaryllis. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass to catechu 9f pounds ; put on sticks ; leave 
it all night; handle in muddy lime; wring out 
with the peg ; leave to rest a few hours ; pass to 
the wood — 

6 pails, 

3 pails of Water, 



RECEIPTS. 33 

by bucket, or 36 J pounds of wood ; give four 
turns, wring out by hand, then with the peg ; and 
pass to the mordant marking 2}°, wring out with 
the peg, wash, darken in the same wood bath, 
being careful to divide the twist, use about one 
pail for two passes; let it remain, then add — 

99 ounces of Alum, 

16J " " Chromate. 
With some turning oil — 
Give six to eight turns, raise with the hand, crisp, 
leave all night, and wring out with the peg the 
next day. 

4. Chestnut. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
The manipulations and quantities are the same as 
that for the amaryllis, only the cotton is passed 
twice to the catechu. 

Pass to the catechu ; put in sticks; leave it to 
raise, pass to the lime ; wring out with the peg, 
put in and head; do not wring too hard, and make 
the heads very soft, leave to raise; wash; wring out 
with the peg ; pass to catechu, leave to raise, pass 
to the lime; put in sticks; leave to raise; pass to 
the wood, etc. etc. 

5. Amaryllis- Sandal. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass to the gallic acid, 10 J pounds ; pass to the 
pyrolignite ; leave to raise ; wash well. Pass to the 



34 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

catechu, 9f pounds, afterwards to the chromate 
from 49 J ounces to 66; leave to raise; wash; put in 
sticks for the kettle, in which you have put 51 1 
pounds of sandal wood ; introduce in it the cotton 
only when the bath begins to be warm, leave it in 
for one hour without boiling, then one hour to 
the ebullition; wash well before raising to finish; 
you raise to add in the bath a little turning oil, 
and you give again a few turns. 

The whole is passed in earthen jars, and the 
same for the following shades for which sandal is 
used. 

6. Amaryllis- Sandal. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton — 
Pass to the extract of sumach, 12i pounds; pass to 
the chromate from 49 ounces to 66 ; leave to raise; 
wash and finish in the kettle like the above ama- 
ryllis with 51 \ pounds of sandal. If you will, 
you can give a little wood when it goes out of 
the kettle. 

7. Grenat- Sandal. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
After the boiling, handle with the hand in a bath 
of 16 ounces of salt of tin, in a small bucket; leave 
it all night, wash, wring out with the peg; pass 
with the hand to the mordant at 1|°, wring out 
with the peg, put in sticks for the kettle; use 51 J 



KECEIPTS. 35 

pounds of sandal; the manipulation is the same 
as for the first amaryllis. 

8. Carol Tree. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass to the catechu, 9 J lbs. ; handle in muddy lime; 
16J ounces diluted in a little bucket, wring out 
with the peg, leave to raise and pass to the wood— 

3 pails Red wood, 

3 " Logwood, 

3 a Water. 

Give 4 turns, raise with the hand on the sticks 
to wring out with the peg ; pass to the acids as for 
the amaryllis ; put all the bath of the buckets in a 
kettle, heat it; If you want to finish in the buckets, 
you must wash after the mordant : add turning oil. 

9. Deep Blue. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 

Pass to the little wood, wring out by hand, put on 
sticks; pass to the copperas 1 qt. per bucket; give 
4 turns; wring out by hand; crisp; leave to raise 
few hours ; wash ; pass to the lime without wring- 
ing with the peg : 1 pot of lime of the tun for every 
pass; wring out with the peg, and terminate in a 
wood bath thus formed : — 
5 pails Logwood, 

4 " Water. 

After giving few turns, add 33 ounces of alum, 
and 4 of a quart of pyrolignite of iron for every 



36 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

pass, and as much as turning oil; give few turns; 
crisp ; leave to raise. 

10. Deep Blue. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Give a blue ground with a clear vat at If ounce; 
wash ; wring out with the peg, and pass to the 
wood like the above ; only in the wood bath take 
4 pails of good wood, and one of little wood, with 
4 pails of water. 

11. Indigo Vat. 
Take— 

66 ounces Indigo, 
66 " Copperas, 
99 " Lime. 
Put the lime first, stir well ; then add the cop- 
peras, stir, and at last put the indigo. 

12. Another Indigo Vat. 

The size of the vat is generally the one of old 
oil barrels. 

A first vat to whiten is thus composed : — 
16J ounces Indigo, 
33 " Lime, 
49| " Copperas. 
To put a turn, by example, increase the indigo 
about from 3 to 8 ounces, the lime and the cop- 
peras in the corresponding proportions. 



RECEIPTS. 37 

13. Green on Prussiate. 
Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Treat as for the ordinary prussiate (15) ; wash ; 
pass to the green mordant ; wring out with the 
peg; pass to the quercitron, 20 J pounds ; add to 
the bath a little bowl of mordant, and terminate 
in a weak bath of distillated indigo. 
14. Prussiate. 
Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Discharge a little longer than for the other colors, 
wash, wring out with the peg ; handle in the buckets 
with — 

10 pails of Water per bucket, 

16J ounces Salt of Tin, 

1 quart Mordant of Iron, 
for the 2 baths; give 6 turns, raise, wring out with 
the peg (if you wash after the mordant and wring 
well it will be better); handle in a second bath with 
49 J ounces of prussiate; let drain; wring out with 
the peg; handle in the first bath with a little iron 
mordant, leave to drop a little; darken in the prus- 
siate bath with a little vitriol ; raise ; refresh, that 
is, draw 3 pails of the bath and substitute to it 3 
pails of water; darken with a little vitriol and 
pure oil; give a few turns, raise on the sticks and 
wring out with the peg. 

15. Ordinary Prussiate. 
Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Operate as the above, except that you pass only 
once in each bath. 

4 



38 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

This prussiate is lighter, with the same quantity 
of drugs. 

16. English Green. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Give with the vat a blue ground more or less 
dark according to the specimen ; pass to the mor- 
dant No. 8 at 4°, wring out with the peg ; pass to 
the quercitron 41 \ pounds; leave to dry along; 
raise and add a little of the same mordant, do not 
use any oil; if you wish you can use a little carmine 
of indigo. 

17. Spring Green. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
After discharging pass to the mordant, after 
having wrung out with the peg as the English 
green; then pass to the quercitron 41 \ pounds; 
add a little of the same mordant, wring out with the 
peg ; put on stick and pass to the distillated indigo 
with a little fresh mordant. 

18. Ordinary Woad- green. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Begin as for the spring green, only substitute the 
quercitron by woad, about 18 bunches. 

They generally make three baths of 6 bunches 
each. This green is brighter than the quercitron, 
but it is a little more costly. 



RECEIPTS. 39 

19. Chromate Green. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Give a vat blue ground, wash, wring out with the 
peg ; pass to the chromate 4 pounds ; wring out 
with the peg, pass to clear lime from the tun 
thus composed — 
4 pails 

6 " Water. 
Wring out with the peg; pass to the sugar of lead, 
8j pounds; repeat the same operation, pass to 
the chromate and sugar of lead two and even 
three times. You do well to finish with the chro- 
mate ; give turning oil in the last bath, wash well 
and the operation is achieved. 

20. Ordinary Violet. 

For 103 pounds of Cotton, use — 

18 pails of Logwood, 

36 " " Water. 
Pass the cotton ; wring out with the hand, leave to 
raise ; wring out with the peg, and pass to the 
mordant at 4° ; wash and pass again on the first 
bath ; if you wish a darker color add to it a little 
copperas — no oil. 

21. Ordinary Lilac. 

For 103 pounds of Cotton; use — 
12 pails Logwood, 
42 " Water. 



40 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

Pass; raise on the sticks, and add in the bath 
66 ounces of alum; give few turns; no oil. 

If you wish the color a little bluer, add a little 
copperas. 

22. Orange. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass to the mordant and to the lime clear or mud- 
dy : 99 ounces, first bath ; wash, pass to the chro- 
mate: 8| pounds for the two baths ; pass to the 
mordant, then to the chromate with 66 ounces of 
lime, wash. All these operations are done in earth- 
en jars ; make a water bath with a little diluted 
oil 

23. Chrome Yellow. 

Use 103 pounds of Lime. 
Handle in the mordant sugar of lead ; pass to the 
chromate 82i ounces. Pass twice in each bath; 
in going out of each bath, wring out with the peg 
and leave to raise ; achieve in fresh water baths 
with a little diluted oil. 

2-i. Grcecian Yellow. 
Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Handle all the cotton in the same bucket contain- 
ing— 

66 ounces Crystals of Soda, 
12 1 lbs. of Turmeric. 
Pass to the vitriol, to transform the cotton in a fine 
yellow ; pass with the hand in a bucket of water. 
You add a little to each bath at every pass. 



RECEIPTS. 41 

26. Silver Gray. 
Handle in a weak bath of sumach and logwood ; 
add a little copperas so as to give a slight violet 
shade ; add a little alum, and to give a blue tint 
add a little blue vitriol. 

26. Nankin. 

For every 103 pounds of Cotton — 
Cook for 2 hours in water 31 pounds of tan ; pass 
twice in an earthen jar; leave to raise; wring out 
with the peg ; pass to the lime, wash ; pass to the 
salt of tin 16J ounces. If the shade is not dark 
enough, pass again in a light bath of annotto with 
a little diluted oil. 

27. Rust. 

Handle in a bath of lime water with crystals of 
soda, wring out with the peg; pass to the copperas; 
wring out with the peg; put on sticks, leave to raise. 
Eepeat this same operation three times, add every 
time a little lime-water and copperas, and wait 
every time that the cotton has left its greenish 
shade, wash well and brighten with a little annotto 
and diluted oil. 

28. Rose with Wood. 
Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass to the wood thus formed 
2 pails, 

6 pails of Water, 
4* 



42 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

for one bucket; wring out to the peg; pass to the 
grenat-sandal mordant No. 4, at 4°, wash, pass on 
the first bath of wood; leave to drag along and 
raise again. 

29. Saffron Hose. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
The white or half white cotton is passed to the 
saffron 33 ounces for 33 ounces of cotton, with a 
glassful of vitriol per bucket ; when the cotton is 
dark enough, brighten with 49 1- ounces of tar- 
taric acid ; wring out and dry. 

30. Bed with Wood. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass to annotto 9| lbs.; wash on both hands, whiten 
to the red wood 25| pounds; give 4 turns, raise 
with the hand ; heat the bath; pass to the grenat 
sandal mordant No. 4, at 4°. Achieve in the 
warm bath of red wood and oil. 

Cook the annotto lj hours with 25 ounces of 
crystals of soda, or 16J ounces of salt soda. 

31. Solid Bed. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Cook for 6 hours the cotton with soda, wash ; the 
first bath is done with — 

1 pail Sheep Dung, 

Lye at 3°, 

99 ounces of Turning Oil. 



RECEIPTS. 43 

Dry, pass in a bath prepared like the first, dry, 
give 4 baths of turning oil, dry after each bath ; 
you use 24} pounds of oil and lye at 1 J°; soak in 
a bath of soda at 2°, wash on 4 hands, dry; pass to 
the gall : 20} pounds ; dry ; pass to the dry alum 
31 pounds, as warm as possible, in an earthen jar; 
wash on four hands; wring out with the peg; dye 
with madder, in a kettle ; 33 ounces for 33 
ounces of cotton, two hours without boiling and 
one hour to ebullition. In each kettle you want 
one pail of bullock blood, raise and wash ; bright- 
en in the scouring bath with soda at 2°, leave 
all night, raise and wash on two hands. 
Color rose with — 

33 ounces Salt of Tin, 

16J u Nitric Acid, 

20} lbs. of Scraped Soap. 
Boil the whole in a kettle for 5 hours ; leave 
all night, raise and wash. 

32. Solid Red. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass twice in the salt tin mordant — 
1 part Mordant, 
4 " Water. 
"Wash; finish in the kettle with 21 ounces of 
sandal wood for every 16J ounces of cotton, wash 
well and finish. 



44 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

33 Water Gray. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Take— 

from 12 J to 15J lbs. of Logwood, 

from 33 ounces to 49 J ounces of Gall-nuts. 
Boil together — 

66 ounces Alum, 

66 " Blue Yitriol, 

66 Copperas. 

Add two glasses of vitriol ; make a bath with the 
whole and pass in buckets in a tepid bath. 

34. Gray-Brown. 

Pass to catechu in earthen jars ; wring in them ; 
leave to raise ; pass to the pyrolignite of iron in 
earthen jars; wring out and leave to raise. 

To have a darker gray-brown pass as above, 
only you need a little yellow wood, two bowls 
about per bucket. 

35. Warm Vat for Cotton and Wool. 

Boil in an ordinary kettle — 

33 ounces Madder, 

16J " American Potash, 

25 " Bran. 
Then empty in another kettle, having the form of a 
loaf of sugar; when the bath is hot enough so you 
can hold the hand in it, put in 33 ounces of well 
grounded indigo, stir every hour, and next day add 






RECEIPTS. 45 

16 J ounces potash ; if the bath has worked pass in 
9} to 15 J pounds of cotton; stir well ; begin again 
one hour after, till the kettle does not color ; after 
that, fix another ; but you must be careful to keep 
a few pails of the first clear bath to prepare the 
other. 

The bath must always be warm, just enough to 
keep the hand in. 

36. Ash Gray. 

For 33 ounces of Cotton, use — 
3^ ounces of Gall nuts, 
8| H Copperas ; 

then pass in a weak lye. 

37. Silver Gray. 

Pass in a tepid bath of indigo, and achieve with 
a little logwood and alum. 

33. Lilac. 

For 33 ounces of Cotton, use — 
3| ounces of Alum, 
1 ounce Glue, 
| " Soda. 
Dissolve in boiling water ; when the liquor has 
cooled off, add 1 ounce sugar of lead. To achieve, 
pour spirit of wine at 35° : leave to macerate in it 
the annbtto root, then wash well. 

The cotton being well discharged, pass to the 
alum mordant, dry, wash until the cotton is well 



46 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

damped, pass in the bath of annotto, leave it in 
two days, and the operation is achieved. 

39. Blue Lilac. 
Give a blue vat ground ; brighten, pass to the 
mordant of tin, and achieve with logwood. 

40. Lemon Yellow. 
For 33 ounces of Cotton, use — 
6 ounces Sugar of Lead, 
I ounce Alum. 
Mordant whilst warm and dry ; make a lye with 
3 1 ounces of Lime, 

1 ounce of Potash. 

Pass warm and wash ; pass in a tepid bath of 

2 ounces of Potash, 
add in the bath 

i ounce of Sulphuric Acid ; 
leave in a few hours and wash. 

41. Orange. 
Use 10i pounds of Cotton. 
Mordant whilst hot at 24°, with — 
4 ounces of Sugar of Lead, 
lj " Litharge. 
For 16J ounces of Cotton — 
Pass tepid in a bath of 

8 J ounces of Lime, 
and achieve in a bath of 

8 J ounces of Potash, 

4 " Sulphuric acid. 



KECEIPTS. 47 

42. Orange. 
Give a good anuotto ground ; then redden with 
a little vinegar and sulphuric acid. 

43. May Green. 

Mordant with 5 pails of water, in which you 
dissolve 

29 lbs. of Alum, 

14j lbs. of Pyrolignite of Lead. 
To mordant, you take 

1 part of Water, 

1 " Mordant. 
To dye, pass to the sumach, dry, mordant, dried, 
soak ; pass to the quercitron ; the woad is better, 
and terminate with the distillate of indigo. 



'o v 



44. Olive Green. 
Give a gray bottom and finish with quercitron. 

45. Red. 
Use 10J pounds of Cotton. 

Pass to the tin mordant in 66 ounces of sumach, 
and terminate in the red wood. 

46. Red. 

Give an annotto ground, redden to the sul- 
phuric acid ; pass to the sumach ; mordant with 
the tin dissolution, and finish whilst cold with 
red wood. 



48 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

47. Brown Red. 

Give a gray ground ; pass to the alum mor- 
dant, and achieve with red wood. 

48. Crimson Red. 

Pass to the alum mordant ; wash ; pass in a 
tepid bath of red wood, and terminate in a weak 
bath of potash. 

49. Buff. 

Pass to the iron mordant, to the lye, and finish 
to the annotto. 

50. Orange. 

For 10J pounds of Cotton use — 

82} ounces of Copperas. 
Pass to the potash, and* finish with annotto. 

51. Blue. 
Mordant with — 

3 glasses of Sulphuric Acid, 
2 to 2 J ounces of Salt of Tin ; 
and terminate in a bath of 12} ounces of prus- 
siate of potash with a little sulphuric acid. 

52. Olive Green. 

Give a gray ground with copperas and sumach; 
pass to the alum mordant, and terminate to the 
quercitron. 



RECEIPTS. 49 

53. Olive Mordant. 
Dissolve — 

31 lbs. Alum, 
49 h ounces of Salt Soda, 
14J lbs. of Sugar of Lead, in 
6 pails of Water. 
With this mordant you can make the fol- 
lowing shades, which are all solid : — 

A. Olive. 
2 pieces, j. 
When the pieces are boiled, you give a gray 
bottom with gall-nuts or pyrolignite of iron. 
Dry; pass to the olive. mordant with a little ace- 
tate of iron ; dry ; leave for 24 hours, and if you 
are not in a hurry, you can leave from 8 to 15 days. 
Soak with warm water, then wash with running 
water. To finish, prepare a kettle of about seven 
measures, in which you put — 

10J lbs. of boiled Quercitron, 
33 ounces Red-wood, 
8 ounces Logwood. 
Enter the pieces into this bath when it is tepid, 
and boil. After an hour, wash and dry. 

B. Brown Red. 

Achieve with 8J pounds of red wood, mordant 
as we have said above. 



50 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

C. Light Olive. 

7\ lbs. Quercitron for the two pieces. 

D. Dark Olive. 

99 ounces Quercitron, 
33 ounces Logwood. 

E. Bronze. 

99 ounces Quercitron, 
16J ounces Ked-wood. 

F. Chestnut. 



99 ounces Quercitron, 
82 \ ounces Bed-wood, 
49 \ ounces Logwood. 



G. Lavalliere. 

49^ ounces Quercitron, 
49 h ounces Eed-wood. 



54. Nut-Browse Green. 

Annotto bottom ; pass to sumach with a little 
copperas, and achieve in a bath of annotto with 
a little lye. 

55. Olive Green. 
Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Give a gray ground, and finish with quercitron, 
6 1 pounds for 2CU pounds of cotton. 



RECEIPTS. 51 

56. Zinc Green. 



Mordant with — 

33 ounces of Alum. 

Terminate with — 

16J ounces of Potash, 
1 glass Sulphuric Acid, 
1 glass Carmine of Indigo. 

57. Olive Green. 
Take— 

12^ ounces of Gall-nuts, 
12 ounces of Copperas. 
Wash and finish with — 
16J ounces Alum, 
8\ lbs. of Yellow- wood. 
Heat little by little, and wash. 

58. Lilac. 

Take— 

4 ounces Salt of Tin, 
S\ ounces Gall-nuts, 
99 ounces Logwood. 

Wash and pass in — 
8i Alum. 

59. Solid Violet. 

Take— 

82J ounces Sumach. 

Dry ; mordant with — 

82£ ounces Alum, 
12 i ounces Potash. 



52 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

Wash ; mordant again with— 

8 J ounces Potash, 
And finish with — 

9^ lbs. of Logwood, 

82 1 ounces Madder. 

60. Lilac Blue. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Take— 

2 parts Logwood, 

1 part Blue. 

5 to 10 ounces Alum. 
Pass in it whilst tepid. . 

61. Canella Brown. 

Use20| lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a gray ground and finish with annotto, 
16 J ounces Annotto, 
33 ounces Potash. 

62. Canella Brown. 
Take— 

16^ ounces Sumach, 

12 £ ounces Copperas. 
Eedden with — 

3J ounces Potash. 
And finish at a gentle heat with — 

12J ounces Potash, 

8 J ounces Annotto, 

8f lbs. of Woad. 



RECEIPTS. 53 

63. Red Brown. 

Use lOJlbs. of Cotton. 
Give a gray bottom and terminate with — 
22 h ounces Alum, 
62J ounces Red-wood, 
22 h ounces Annotto, 
49 h ounces Potash. 
Pass the cotton when white 33 ounces by 33 
ounces. 

64. Red. 

For 20f lbs. of Cotton use— 

29J ounces Annotto, 

41 \ ounces Potash. 
Boil the cotton in ; then wash ; pass in — 

82 \ ounces of Sumach. 
Mordant with — 

29J ounces Hydrochloric Acid, 

12 J ounces Salt of Tin. 
To finish you take — 

7f lbs. of Red-wood and Fernambucco 
mixed, and let to raise half a day. 

6o. Red. 

Like the above, but you take only 12 \ ounces 
of Fernambucco ; when the bath is near exhausted 
you add 4 ounces of hydrochloric acid, and you 
let to raise for one hour. 



54 COTTON AN1> WOOL DYEING. 

66. Bed. 
Take— 

66 ounces of Sumach, then for 
16 J " " Solution of Tin; and 
10J pounds of Fernambucco to finish. 

67. Gray-red. t 

Gray bottom, as the following : pass in 

4 ounces Alum, 

16J " Quercitron. 
Wash, then redden with annotto, 

68. Gray. 

For 20} of Cotton, take— 
1 ounce Sumach, 
\ " Copperas. 
The sumach and copperas are doubled for each 
shade. 

For 8 shades, by example — 
1st shade, 1 ounce sumach, \ ounce copperas. 



2d 


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1 " 


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5th 


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6th 


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7th 


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RECEIPTS. 55 

69. Red. 

Gray ground as above, redden with 6 ounces of 
hydrochloric acid, and finish with a little Fernam- 
bucco. 

70. Orange. 

Gray bottom with sumach, and terminate with 
annotto. 

71. Orange. 
Take— 

33 ounces of Alum, 

16 1 " " Potash, 

2 " " « Chalk. 
Wash and finish with — 

49 1 ounces Madder, 

25 ~ a Annotto, 

25 " Potash. 
Wash and pass in a last bath of 8 J ounces of 
alum. 

72. Yellow. 
Cook— 

33 ounces Turmeric, with 

16| " Potash. 
Mordant with — 

66 ounces Alum, 

16i « Salt of Tin, 

4 a Salt Ammonia. 
Finish with — 

12 J pounds of Quercitron, 

4 ounces of Annotto. 

4 " " Potash. 



56 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

73. Yellow. 

For 31 pounds of Cotton, use — 

6Q ounces of Sumach. 
Mordant with — 

49 J ounces of Alum, 

2 ~ " " Potash, 

4 " " Sugar of Lead, 

4 " u Salt of Tin, 

4 " " Chalk. 

Terminate with — 

2 drachms Salt of Tin, 

4 ounces Alum, 

10J pounds of Quercitron. 

74. Rose. 
Take— 

6 ounces Alum, 

5 " Sulphuric Acid, 

6 " Salt of Tin. 

Leave the cottons in this bath for 24 hours, and 
finish with 

22 J ounces Fernambucco, 

J ounce Potash. 

75. Rose. 
Take— 

16 h ounces saffron for every 33 ounces of cot- 
ton, with 8 J ounces of potash. 

To finish, take tartaric acid or vinegar. 



RECEIPTS. 57 

76. Apple Flower, 
Take- 
Si ounces Salt of Tin ; 
wash ; pass in a weak bath of Fernambucco, and 
add little by little of the violet mordant No. 2. 

,77. Straw. 
For20f pounds of Cotton, take — 

33 ounces of Sumach 
For mordant, use — 

29 ounces of Alum ; 
wash, and finish with 

8 J ounces of Potash, 
82J " Quercitron, 

78. Madder Brown, 
Take— 

82 1 ounces of Sumach, 
mordant with 

49J ounces of Alum. 

25 " Potash, 

wash ; pass in 

10^ lbs. of Yellow wood, 

15£ " Madder, 
wash and finish with 

4 ounces of Copperas. 

79. Light Green. 
For 41 \ pounds of Cotton, take — 
10i lbs. of Alum, 
25 ounces of Potash. 



58 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

Leave the cotton in it for 12 hours. Pass while 
tepid in 20§ pounds quercitron, then to the indigo. 
You must first pass to the sumach, and not wash 
after the mordant, but pass in 8^ ounces of pot- 
ash. 



ARTICLE III. 

Stiffening for White Cotton — Scotch 
Thread. 
Take— 

33 ounces White Wax, 

16J " Soap, 

16i " Salt, 

2 " Potash, 

J " Red Soap, 
boil the whole together for half an hour, and divide 
it for 123| pounds of cotton. 



ALSACEAN DYES. 59 



CHAPTER II. 

Alsacean Dyes. 

ARTICLE I. 

Mordants— Preliminary Operations. 
Apparatus. 

1. Iron Mordant. 

Dissolve iron in nitric acid as much as this acid 
can dissolve, then dissolve some copperas. Any 
kind of old iron answers the purpose. 

2. Alum Mordant. 
Use 206J- pounds of Cotton. 

In a little earthen kettle, put 

1 bowl of Crystals of Soda, 
then dissolve in a little tub with hot water, 

41 J lbs. of Alum, 

10J " Sugar of Lead. 
This mordant is manufactured the same way 
for all shades of green. The cotton is passed in 
earthen jars. The advance is done with two or 
three bowls of this mordant, two bowls of this 
same mordant which has been used once, and two 
bowls of water. If you wish to finish immediately 



60 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

you pass the cotton twice in earthen jars ; every 
time you wring out with the peg ; if you wish 
only to finish the next day, pass in the jars only 
once ; wring out with the peg, pass once more in 
jars, and cover them all ; you wring the next day. 
You pass 66 ounces of cotton at a time, and 
you continue with one bowl of mordant. 

3. Solution of Tin. 

Dissolve tin in a jar near full with a mixture of 
nitric acid — one part — and hydrochloric acid — 
two parts — till the solution becomes greenish. 

4. Sail of Tin. 

Dissolve salt of tin in hydrochloric acid and 
water. Take a little more water than acid ; 33 
ounces of salt of tin for 66 ounces of hydrochloric 
acid. 

5. Bleaching. 

Use 206} pounds of Cotton. 
Stir 20} pounds of chloride of lime in warm 
water in a little tub, placed just above the bleach- 
ing vat ; let to settle, and when the liquid is clear 
let it run in the vat. Repeat this operation three 
or four times. If the bleaching vats are large 
enough for 103 pounds of cotton, divide the bleach- 
ing liquor in two vats. For 103 pounds of cotto^ 
you pour one glass of sulphuric acid; stir a little; 
and then put the cotton in it. The cotton must 



ALSACEAN I>YES. 61 

have been discharged, wash and wrung. It wants 
at least two hours to bleach, but it is no inconve- 
nience to leave a little longer, only when you 
take the cotton out, it must be washed immedi- 
ately. If you have a part to bleach, you can put 
it twice to the white; wash and wring. 

6. Discharging. 
It wants two hours to discharge, and you must 
be careful to arrange the cotton in the kettle so as 
to have it entirely covered with water; this opera- 
tion is generally done in the evening; they fill 
the kettle with water, and leave the cotton in it 
till next day, then they wash. All dischargings 
required a washing, except for dark blue. 

7. Sizing. 

Boil water in a kettle, and when boiling put in 
it 7 \ pounds of glue ; stir well with a stick, and 
when all • is dissolved, add 6 J pounds of starch, 
previously dissolved with very little tepid water. 
When the glue is in the kettle, you leave it to 
cook a little, then you add the starch, let to cook 
few minutes, and fill the kettle with water. The 
kettle well full, you can size from 361 to 412 
pounds. The rose is' sized whilst cold two pounds 
by two pounds. The lilac is sized whilst cold 
pound by pound. 

For the woof lilac? you take four bowls of glue 
in a large tub of water, and you pass in it the woof 
6 



62 COTTON ANL> WOOL DYEING. 

as the warp, two pounds by two pounds, because 
the color changes in the glue, and this way the 
cotton becomes more equal. You must always 
put in the advance of glue, a little glass of mor- 
dant of dissolution of tin, in which the cotton has 
been mordanted for the warp as for the woof. 

To size the chemical blue warp, you take : 3 
pails of glue and 2 pails of water. You size 2 
pounds at a time, and tepid as for the other 
colors; two men are employed to size — one sizes 
and the other wrings, but not strongly. You 
must shake well the cotton, it is better than to 
wring it strongly. 

You put a little vinegar in the advances, about 
12 glasses. 

8. Brightening of tht Vat Blues. 

All blues are brightened in little tubs ; for the 
dark blue you make a tepid bath with one glass 
of sulphuric acid, you give three turns, and you 
wring out with the hands to wash immediately ; for 
every portion of 10 J pounds you must have a fresh 
bath. The middle light blue is passed also in a 
tepid bath, but you pass«51| pounds in the same 
bath. For the first bath you put one glass of acid, 
and you continue with three-quarters of a glass, 
after the third pass, throw away a little of the 
bath and fill it again, make two passes, and pre- 
pare a fresh bath. ■ 

The dark blue for dark green is simply brighten 



ALSACEAN DYES. ' 63 

with warm water; for this purpose you fill two 
little tubs with warm water, and you pass one pound 
in the two tubs, you give only a few turns on both 
hands, wring, and pass to the mordant. 

The middle and light blues for green are 
brightened like above. 

9. Fixing of the Indigo Vat. 

The fixing of a vat is a very arbitrary opera- 
tion, each workman has his way, and pretends 
that his method is the best. The following pro- 
cess is the one employed in the establishment of 
the author : They empty the vat, and keep from 
the top about a large jar. The vat was well 
washed, and then they pour in it the jar of the old 
bath, then the indigo, copperas, and lime; each one 
is diluted with warm water ; every time that one 
of those drugs is added, they stir well for a few 
minutes. When the whole is introduced, they 
stir longer ; the next day they fill the vat with 
cold water, and stir anew, and leave it to rest for 
12 hours. The vat then can be worked. When 
you work on vats the man who passes takes a pail 
of water with a little sulphuric acid near him, so 
to dip his hands in. 

10. Working the Blue Vat. 

For all shades done on vats, it wants three per- 
sons, except for the dark blue ; the first wrings 



64 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

the white cotton and gives it with the peg to the 
second, to pass it in the vat; this one having 
passed it, gives it to the third, to wring it out to the 
peg. To pass on the second vat it is the same 
thing. The first takes again the pound of cotton, 
he makes it sweat a little, shakes it well, and passes 
it open to the second, &c. &c. 

For the dark blue they are only two. They 
begin to pass on weak vats on sticks, 10J pounds 
at a time ; then by pound on strong vats, then the 
first man is not necessary, because it is no use to 
make the cotton sweat. 

Every time you have used a vat shake it well 
and leave it to rest all day. 

11. Pass to the Black. 

They pass to the black by 90J pounds of cotton 
at a time on little sticks (lissoirs) in a little tub ; 
the bath stays always the same ; when you have 
not enough you add some warm water ; for every 
pass of 10J pounds, you add a little bowl of 
pyrolignite of iron; you give three turns, then 
you wring out with the hand. As generally they 
are two men, one passes in the bath, and the other 
changes the head of the cotton after the first man 
has passed it to him. 

After the first passing, you are not obliged to 
let to rest the cotton as long as the second time. 



ALSACEAN DYES. 65 

12. Pass the Blue to the Salt of Tin Mordant. 

You pass in a little tub, a little elevated above 
the ground, on five little sticks, 10\ pounds of cot- 
tOD at a time — give three turns to the cotton, wring 
it out with the hand and wash it well. After you 
have passed 103 pounds, you prepare a fresh tepid 
bath with four little pots of mordant, and you con- 
tinue with one pot. 

13. Pass the Catechu for Chestnut to the Salt of Tin 
Mordant. 

You pass in a little tub as the above ; the bath 
is always the same ; you add for every pass of 10 J 
pounds a little pot of the mordant as indicated in 
11. In going out of the mordant, open the skein 
in shaking it a little. You must not leave the 
cotton a long time in the mordant, but wash it 
immediately; the same to observe for the above 
blue. 

14. Pass to the Dissolution of Tin. 

You pass the lilac and red in this dissolution ; 
the lilac at 10£° and the red at 15°. You use a 
little round tub 1 foot in height and 10£ inches 
wide. You put this little tub under a peg on a 
little jar covered with a plank; you take cold 
water, and you add to begin 4 glasses ; you pass 
16^ ounces by 16J ounces on a little peg, and 
after giving 6 or 8 turns you wring out with tHe 
6* 



66 COTTON AND WOOL J>YEING. 

peg, then you continue with one glass. The five 
first 16J ounces are always put aside to be passed 
again at the end of the operation, in adding again 
for every 16 J ounces, a glass of dissolution. 

15. Pass to the Solution Carmine of Indigo. 

All greens with quercitron and without logwood 
are passed in this solution in a little bucket ; you 
pass 10J pounds of cotton at a time and in a cold 
bath ; give three turns to the cotton and the opera- 
tion is achieved. The quantity of carmine of 
indigo used varies according to its strength, and 
the shade that you wish to obtain, only for every 
pass you add half a bowl of alum from the tub. 

The carmine of indigo is generally received by 
dyers in paste ; to use it you must dissolve some 
in a little barrel with cold water ; you shake well 
the mixture and leave to rest ; you must always 
shake it before using it. 

16. Tun to wash in Lye. 

This tun is oval, is 2 feet 1 inch wide, 2 = feet 3 
inches high, and of a capacity of 74 to 77 gallons. 

That tun is placed on a three foot stand so you 
can put below a little jar to receive the running 
lye. In the bottom of this tun is a wooden cross- 
bar which supports a plank pierced with holes and 
covered with straw, so that the ashes cannot pass. 
This tun is filled with ashes ; then pour on it hot 



ALSACEAN DYES. 67 

water, then cold water. When you want lye you 
run it out in the little jar below, and you fill anew 
the tun. You must from time to time renew the 
ashes and straw when the tun does not run. 

This method is old and no more practised. 
Dyers use the commercial salts of potash or soda, 
which is much quicker, and does not require so 
much work. 

17. Tun with Saffron. 

This tun is circular, and is 2 feet wide, 3 feet 
high, of a capacity of about 88 gallons. In the 
bottom of the vat is a wooden cross-bar 3 inches 
high, on which is a plank which enters exactly in 
the tun, and -pierced with holes. This plank is 
covered with a thick linen cloth, thin enough to 
not permit the saffron to pass through. You nail 
one or two wooden hoops on the plank, so as to 
have an empty space between the plank and the 
cloth. 

18. Large Cistern. 

Width, 2 feet; length, 3 J feet; height, 1 foot 3 
inches ; capacity, from 143 to 92 gallons ; sticks 
feet long. 

19. Small round Cistern. 

Length and wideness, 2 feet ; height, 1 foot 3 
inches ; capacity, 43 gallons ; sticks, 2 J feet. 



03 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

20. Earthen Jar to Size, pass to the Catechu, the Green 
to the Mordant. 

Height, 6 inches; width, 8 inches; capacity, 1 
gallon. 

21. Pegs. 

Pegs, 2 feet ; little pegs, 1 foot 8 inches. 

22. Small Glass. 

Height, 1 inch; width, 1\ inch; capacity 2 
ounces. 

23. Large Glass. 

Height, 2 J inches; width, 2 h inches; capacity, 
7 ounces. 

24. Chlorine Cistern. 

This cistern is round: width, lj foot; height, 1 
foot 2 inches; capacity, 20 gallons ; aperture 7 
inches. 

25. Vat to Bleach from 50 to 62 pounds. 

This vat is round ; wideness, 2 feet 9 inches ; 
height, 2 feet; capacity, 117 gallons. 

26. Small ordinary Pot. 

Height, 2 feet 10 inches; width, 2 inches with 
the edge ; capacity 11 ounces. 

This pot is used to pass to the tin mordant. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 69 

27. Indigo Vat. 

Height, 4 feet ; width, 2 feet 3 inches ; capacity, 
148 gallons. 

28. Ordinary Pail. 

Height, 6 h inches; width, 1 foot; capacity, 2 
gallons. 

29. Ordinary Bowl in Copper. 
Height, 2 feet 3 inches; width 5 inches; total 

capacity, 1 gallon. 

30. Small Jar in Sheeted Iron. 

Height, 3 inches; width, 3J inches; total capa- 
city, 1 pint. 



ARTICLE II. 

FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. 

1. Dark Catechu. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 

Cook for 1J hour with Logwood — 

20} pounds of Catechu, 

8J " " Alum, 

33 ounces of Blue Vitriol. 
Take unbleached cotton that you pass three 



70 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

times in the jars ; the third time you add again 
some logwood. 

' After each pass, wring out the cotton with the 
peg ; and after the third pass, pass it in a warm dis- 
solution of 66 ounces of chromate of potash, 
S3 ounces Crystals of Soda. 
Leave to rest at least eigrht hours. To brisrhten 

o o 

it, pass in a tepid bath of 

8 \ pounds Crystals of Soda, 
then wash well. 

2. Ordinary Catechu. 

For 103 pounds of Cotton, take — 

16 pounds Catechu, 

6} " Alum, 

25 ounces Blue Vitriol, 

49 h " Bi-chromate of Potash, 

25 " Crystals of Soda, 

13 i " Soda. 
The manipulation is the same as for dark cate- 
chu ; you pass only twice in jars. Every time that 
all parts have been passed, the advances and what 
has been wrung out of the cotton is put back in 
the kettle, and you heat till ebullition, and you 
begin again. 

3. Pure Catechu. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
The operations are the same as that for dark 
catechu, only you pass three times to the catechu 



FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. 71 

without logwood. The advances to pass the cate- 
chu in jar, are made with half fresh catechu and 
half of the catechu wrung out and a little water. 
You pass 33 ounces of cotton at a time, and you 
continue with one bowl of fresh catechu. 

4. Ordinary Canella. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Cook for 1J hour — 

10J pounds Catechu, 
82 J ounces Alum, 
8i " Blue Vitriol. 
Then you prepare the bath in two large cisterns 
for 42 pounds of unbleached cotton. You pass 
first in the catechu bath, wring out with the peg, and 
pass in a second bath of chromate of potash 4J 
pounds for 103 pounds of cotton. Eepeat the 
operation once in each cistern, then pass in a dis- 
solution of 8 J pounds of crystals of soda ; wash 
well. 

5. Red Canella. ' 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. Take — 
10J pounds of Catechu, 
* 82J ounces of Alum, 

8J pounds of Brazil Wood, 
33 ounces of Bichromate of *Potash, 
33 " " Crystals of Soda. 
The operations are the same as that for ordinary 
canella, only you add Brazil wood that you have 
boiled separately with catechu.- 



72 COTTON A2s'D WOOL DYEING. 

6. Avanturine. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. Take — 

33 ounces Annotto, 

33 " Potash. 
Boil J ah hour, and when hot, pass the cotton 
in it, wash, and operate as for ordinary canella. 

7. Yellow Avanturine. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Operate on ordinary canella without brighten- 
ing, pass to the alum mordant, and afterwards in 
a bath of quercitron 20} pounds for the above 
quantity of cotton. 

8. Bronze. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. Take — 
16J pounds of Catechu, 
99 ounces Blue Yitriol, 
49 J ounces Bi-chromate of Potash. 
Pass whilst hot, twice in each cistern, then pass 
again in the catechu bath with 2 glasses of py- 
rolignite of iron; wash; pass in the alum mor- 
dant ; then in a bath of quercitron 20| pounds for 
the above quantity of cotton. 

* 9. Dark Bronze. 

For 103 pounds of Cotton, take — 
20J pounds Catechu, 
8 J* " Blue Vitriol, 
66 Ounces Bi-chromate of Potash. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 73 

Handle like the bronze, only with the quercitron 
you boil 6Q ounces logwood. 

10. Bistre Bronze. 

For 103 pounds of Cotton, take — 
16 pounds of Catechu, 
6£ pounds Blue Vitriol, 
49 1 ounces Bichromate of Potash. 
Handle like the bronze; when all is passed to 
the catechu with pyrolignite of iron and washed, 
you brighten with x 

8 J pounds of soda. 

11. Chestnut Catechu. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Handle the cotton in the salt of tin mordant; 
wring out; pass to the logwood 41| pounds for 
103 pounds of cotton. Wring out and pass to the 
catechu in jars like the ordinary catechu — 

16 pounds of Catechu, # 

49 J ounces of Bichromate of Potash ; 
Brighten with 

25 j ounces of Soda. 
Leave a few hours and wash well. 
If the color is fine enough without brighten- 
ing, the last operation is useless. You can also 
use only from 35 to 37 pounds of logwood. 



74 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

12. Dark Chestnut. 

For 103 pounds of Cotton, take — 

10J pounds Catechu, 

66 ounces Alum, 

16^ ounces Blue Vitriol, 

33 ounces Bichromate of Potash. 
Handle in cisterns ; wash ; wring ; handle in the 
salt of tin mordant; wash and wring; pass to 
the logwood 41 J pounds ; and when the bath is 
drawn off, add in the same bath a bowl of alum 
mordant for every 10| pounds of Cotton, wash 
and wring. 

Pass twice to the* catechu, twice to the chro- 
mate, every time, you wring out with the peg and 
keep the bath (you pass only 25| pounds of cot- 
ton at a time and the same baths can be used for 
103, 206 and even 310 pounds of cotton), except 
for the bath of chromate at the second time ; wring 
only with the hand, and terminate in little wooden 
cisterns. In a kettle in which you have cooked 
catechu for 206 pounds of cotton, you begin with 
9 pails and continue with 8. 

13. Bed Dark Chestnut. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. Operate like for 
dark chestnut, only instead of 41 J- pounds of log- 
wood take — 

20J pounds of Logwood, 

20£ pounds " Brazil Wood. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 75 

1-i. Paliaca Chestnut. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton and take — 
5| pounds of Catechu, 
33 ounces Alum, 
8J ounces Blue Vitriol, ' 
33 ounces Bichromate of Potash. 
The manipulation is the same as dark chestnut, 
but instead of 41 J pounds of logwood take only 
31 pounds. 

15. Nigger -head Color. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton, and take — 
5 J pounds of Catechu, 
33 ounces Alum, 
8J ounces Blue Vitriol, 
33 ounces Bichromate Potash. 
The manipulation is the same as for dark chest- 
nut, 41 J logwood; when the bath is drawn off 
add alum and pyrolignite of iron ; 1 great bowl 
of alum for every 10 J- pounds, one small glass 
pyrolignite of iron, for the warp and 2 for the 
woof. Wash well. 

16. Dark Grenat. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a catechu bottom as for chestnut, and pass to 
the mordant of salt of tin ; afterwards boil to- 
gether — 

62 lbs. of Brazil Wood, 
6J u Logwood. 



76 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING, 

After you have given a few turns, and when 
the bath is drawn off, you add in each cistern a 
glass of salt of tin mordant for every 10J pounds 
cotton, and you wash well. 

17. Ordinary Grenat. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate as for the dark grenat, only take 62 lbs. 
of Brazil wood, and 33 ounces of logwood, instead 
of 96. Generally, they take for 10J pounds of 
cotton 3 bowls of logwood from the tun ; it is no 
use to boil with the red wood. 

18. Red Grenat. 

Use 206 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give an annotto bottom. Take — 
49 J ounces of Annotto, 
49J " Potash. 
Wash ; then pass twice to the catechu and 
chromate; pass to the salt of tin mordant; pass to 
the Brazilwood 62 pounds; add one glass of salt 
of tin mordant and wash. 

19. Yellow Grenat or Carmelite. 

Use 206 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give an annotto bottom as for the red grenat; 
wash ; pass twice to the catechu and to the chro- 
mate ; wash again to terminate with 20J pounds 
of Brazil wood ; after a few turns you add 2 



FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. 77 

glasses of salt of tin mordant. You do not want 
to pass to the mordant as the other grenats. 

20. Yellow Carmelite, 

Use 106 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give an annotto bottom ; wash ; pass to the cate- 
chu ; wash like for the other grenats ; pass to the 
alum mordant, and, to finish, pass in baths made 
with 

16 lbs. of Brazil' Wood, 
16 " Quercitron. 
After you have given few turns, add in the 
bath a little sugar of lead. 

21. Black. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Discharge the cotton in 37 pounds of sumach : 
wring; pass 10J pounds by 10J- pounds in a bath 
of pyrolignite of iron, and for every pass add. a 
pint of this mordant ; leave to rest few hours, and 
pass again the cotton to the sumach in a large cis- 
tern by 26J pounds at a time, then to the pyrolig- 
nite of iron by 10 \ pounds; let to rest few hours ; 
wring, and pass to the lime 25 ounces in a large 
jar ; wash ; then boil — 

37 lbs. of Logwood, 
3J " Fustic. 

That you divide in the large jars ; the bath 
being exhausted, add in each jar 2 glasses of pyro- 
lignite of iron. 

7* 



78 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

22. Indigo Blue, or Yat Blue. 
Take— 

6 J lbs. of Indigo, 
18i " Lime, 

18J " Green Copperas or Sulphate of 
Iron. 

To prepare an indigo vat you grind 6J pounds 
of indigo with water. 

When it is perfectly pulverized, you throw it 
in a vat ; then you slack 18J lbs. of lime and pour 
it in the vat; stir well for some time, then you 
dissolve in hot water the 18J lbs. of sulphate of 
iron, and pour it in the vat. Stir anew for some 
time, fill the vat with cold water and let it to rest 
about twelve hours before working it. 

To make the milk blue color you choose two 
vats weak enough together to give the shade that 
you wish to produce ; you pass first the bleach 
cotton on the weaker, then on the other. The 
light and middling blues are done the same way, 
but with stronger vats. 

The dark blue is begun on sticks of which you 
take five, 33 ounces on each; you begin to pass 
on weak vats, and you terminate on strong ones ; 
the dark blue is passed sometimes on 20 vats. 

The Cupreous blue receive a little logwood in 
the little cistern with a bowl of alum mordant ; the 
bath being tepid, you handle in it the cotton after 
you have brightened and washed it. This way to 
operate is done only when you use but little log- 



FORMULA OF .MODERN DYES. 79 

wood ; when you use a large quantity, you pass the 
cotton (brightened and washed) to the tin mordant ; 
you wash and you pass to the woad without alum 
mordant, and you put in ajar when the bath is 
exhausted. 

All these blues are brightened with the vitriol, 
and for the Cupreous blue, you add 2 pails of 
logwood for 103 lbs. of cotton. 

23. French Light Blue. 

You give a bottom of milk blue color ; brighten 
and wash it ; then prepare two large cisterns of 
fresh water ; in the first add 8 J- ounces of salt of tin 
and a glass of iron mordant ; for the second, you 
dissolve 8J ounces of yellow prussiate of potash 
in warm water, and you put in it half of the 
cotton. 

The baths must be a little tepid. You pass 20 J 
cotton in the first, wring out with the peg, then 
pass in the second, and alternately 4 times in each 
cistern ; the three first times you keep the baths. 
Before passing the second time, add two glasses 
of mordant in the first cistern, and the balance of 
the yellow prussiate in the other ; the third time 
add a glass of mordant in the first cistern, and the 
fourth time two glasses in the first cistern and 2 
glasses of vitriol in the second. Wring out with 
the hand and wash immediately. 



80 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

24 Middling French Blue. 

Give a bottom of light blue, brighten and wash. 
The manipulations are the same as for the light 
blue. 

In the first cistern and for the first pass put 16J 
ounces of salt of tin and 2 glasses iron mordant ; 
in the second dissolve 16 J ounces prussiate of 
potash, that you divide for the two first passes ; 
the second time in the first cistern put four glasses 
of mordant, and in the second the balance of the 
prussiate, the third time in the first cistern put 2 
glasses of iron mordant, the fourth time in the 
first cistern put 4 glasses of mordant, and in the 
other 3 glasses of vitriol ; wring out with the hand 
and wash. 

25. Dark French Blue. 

The quantities and manipulations are the same 
as for the above, only it is done on a middling 
blue bottom, and you add in the prussiate cistern 
a- little Brazil wood. You take of it from 5 J to 
8£ pounds. 

26. Myrtle Green. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Make a middling dark blue in vats and brighten 
with hot water. For that, prepare the little jars 
of hot water in which two men pass 16J by 16h 
ounces of cotton at a time, and by every 26 J 
pounds you prepare fresh baths; wring out with 






FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 81 

the peg; they pass twice in alum mordant in ajar 
and every time wring out with the peg. 

You handle afterwards in a bath of 51 J pounds 
of quercitron for 103 pounds of cotton ; that you 
boil for a quarter of an hour, and that you divide 
in the large jars with two great glasses of turmeric 
for 26J pounds; when the bath is exhausted add 
in each jar a handful of sugar of lead. You add 
also logwood in the bath of quercitron and the 
quantity used varies according to the shade to ob- 
tain. 

27. Dark Green with Quercitron. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 

Make a middling blue in vats. 

The operations are the same as for the Myrtle 
Green, only the quantity of logwood added to the 
quercitron is less ; wash well ; brighten the blue 
as for the Myrtle Green. 

Use 16J ounces of quercitron for 33 ounces 
of cotton ; handle whilst hot, take again 47 J 
pounds of quercitron and three pails of. logwood 
at least, and if the specimen is not dark enough 
add two glasses turmeric ; then when the bath is 
exhausted, one handful of sugar of lead in the 
large cisterns for 25f pounds of cotton. 

28. Middling Green with Quercitron. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Make a light blue on vats, brighten in a little jar, 



82 COTTON AND WOOL DYEIXG. 

10J pounds at a time, with one glass of vitriol for 
the first pass; three-fourths for the second and 
the third ; for the fourth pass, pour out half of this 
bath, and replace it by fresh water and one glass 
sulphuric acid ; to the fifth pass add three-fourths 
of & glass of sulphuric acid, and wash immediately; 
if it is left 51 pounds to brighten, make a fresh 
bath ; wring out with the peg ; then like the dark 
green, only without logwood, wash, wring out 
with the peg, and handle in a little jar, in a cold 
.bath of a solution of carmine of indigo with a lit- 
tle alum, according to the shade of the specimen. 

29. Light Green with Quercitron. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Make a milk blue on the vats, brighten, wash, 
and operate as for the middling blue, only you 
use less carmine of indigo. 

'. 30. Middle Green with Woad. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Boil five or six hours for 20J pounds of cotton, 
15J pounds of good woad or 20J pounds of dyer's 
genista; then take 20^ pounds of cotton that you 
have dyed blue with the vats brightened and 
washed ; and when the genista has boiled enough, 
take it out from the kettle and wash it well with 
water. Take, then, half of this bath and add to 
it verdigris till the bath turns green; pass in it 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 83 

cotton till it is exhausted, which takes some time; 
when it is about exhausted, wring out the cotton 
with the peg and put it aside; pass the 20J other 
lbs. in the same bath, to exhaust it well, then with 
the balance of the genista make a fresh bath and 
pass at first in it the last 20J lbs. of cotton, and 
afterwards the first 20J lbs. The baths must be 
very warm; wring out with the peg. It is no 
use to wash. 

31. Dark Green with Woad. 

Give a middling blue on vats, and then for 20J 
pounds of cotton take 16 pounds of woad or 20J 
pounds of dyer's genista. 

Operate the same as for the middling green, 
only you add logwood in the bath, according to the 
specimen. 

32. Chromaie Green. 

Use 31 lbs. of Cotton. 
Make a milk blue color on vats for light green, 
and light blue for middling green. 

Brighten with vitriol; wash and wring out with 
the peg ; then prepare two jars with tepid water ; 
in the first put sugar of lead, and in the second bi- 
chromate of potash. Every time you take out 
from the bath, wring out with the peg, and pass the 
cotton in these two baths till perfectly colored. 

Before passing the cotton in a bath, add a little 
sugar of lead or chromate of potash. You must 



84 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

not add too much at a time, because the action 
being too quick, the cotton is not smooth, except 
by passing it many times. You must not leave 
the cotton to rest out of the bath of sugar of lead, 
because it dries, and then does not take easily, 
and forms spots. "When it is done, wash it well, 
and pass it in a solution of carmine of indigo. 
The proportions to use are as follows : — 
QQ ounces Sugar of Lead, 
33 " Bichromate of Potash. 

83. Monster Green. 

Use 20 1 lbs. of Cotton. 
Prepare two large jars of cold water. In the first 
take the clear part of 16J pounds of blue vitriol 
which has been dissolved in water ; add only half 
of it in the first jar ; then dissolve 20J pounds of 
caustic potash in water, and put half of this solu- 
tion in the other kettle. Pass the cotton alter- 
nately in each jar seven or eight times, till the re- 
quired shade. The proportions to use are — 
16J lbs. of Blue Vitriol, 
20 J " Crystals of Soda, rendered caus- 
tic by lime. 

The first time take half of the whole, the second 
time take half of the balance, i. e., the quarter of 
the whole, the third time take the balance ; then 
you again pass the cotton several times without 
adding anything to exhaust the baths. The cotton 
must be bleached. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 85 

34. English Green. 

Use 20 1 lbs. of Cotton. 
Make a straw color; then operate as for monster 
green with 

16J lbs. of Blue Vitriol, 

20J « Crystals of Soda. 
You can make a light straw color, straw a little 
less lighter with a stronger bath, or ordinary straw 
more or less dark, according to the strength of the 
straw bath. 

35. Water Green. 

Use 20| lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle the unbleached cotton in a warm bath of 
33 ounces with- a little logwood ; after giving few 
turns, raise the cotton, and add in the same bath 
some pyrolignite of iron ; take out, leave a little to 
darken and then wash well. 

36. Other Water Green. 

Use 51 J of unbleached Cotton. 
Pass it in a bath of 10J lbs. of quercitron in little 
jars; when the bath is exhausted, add in each jar 
for 10J lbs. of cotton, 1 large glass pyrolignite of 
iron. Wash well. 

37. Dark Lilac. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass the bleach cotton in the tin solution at 10J°. 
To begin take 4 large glasses, and you continue 



66 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

with 1, and the first five 16 J ounces that you pass 
are put aside to pass them a second time at the 
end. You boil 25 J lbs. of logwood with which 
you make a first bath, that you dilute with the 
mordant which has been used to pass the cotton, 
1 glass for 10J lbs.; when this bath is exhausted, 
wring out the cotton with the peg, then make a 
second bath, in which you add after it is exhausted, 
some salt of tin mordant according to the shade. 

The lilac is done in small jars. 

The woof lilac is passed to the sizing. 

The proportions are the following : — 
1st bath, 3 pails of Logwood. 
2d bath, 2 pails of Logwood. 

To pass the woof to the sizing, you take 4 bowls 
of sizing for a large jar, pass it in the cotton pound 
by pound, chain and woof, and always to begin 
add a little glass of solution of tin mordant, in 
which you have mordanted the first time. 

38. Middling Lilac. 

Use 103 lbs. of cotton. 
Operate the same as for dark lilac, only use less 
logwood. The cotton for lilac must be bleached. 

1st bath, 2 pails of Logwood. 

2d bath, 1 pail of Logwood. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 87 

39. Red Lilac. 

Use 103 lbs. of cotton with the following pro- 
portions: — 

1st bath, 2 small pails Logwood. 
2d bath, 1 small pail Logwood. 
11 "1 large pail Eedwood. 
Operate as above. 

40. Light Lilac. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
For this color make only one bath, and conse- 
quently you use less logwood; add the mordant 
immediately in the bath. The lilac is always 
washed in the. jars. You use about 3 quarts of 
logwood. You prepare a cold bath with the log- 
wood and 1 glass of mordant in which you have 
passed the cotton; then when the bath is exhausted, 
add in the same bath, 1 glass of salt of tin mor- 
dant. 

41. Violet Lilac. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass the cotton in a warm bath of sumach. 

Pass to the mordant as for the other lilac, then 
in little jars with logwood. 

To make dark violet lilac, you take for the first 
bath, 5 pails, and for the second, 2 pails. 



88 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

42. Blue Lilac. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Dye blue with the vat according to the shade; 
brighten with vitriol, wash, pass to the alum in jars. 
It is no use to prepare fresh mordants ; you keep 
the residuum of the wringing of the other shades 
that you put in a barrel ; pass once in that alum, 
then in little jars in a bath of 2 pails of logwood 
and 1 bowl of this same alum. If the specimen 
is darker, take more logwood, but the same 
quantity of alum. The bowl contains about 1 
quart. The woof is passed to the sizing. 

43. Red with Brazil Wood. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Boil for half an hour 49 J ounces of annotto, 5 J 
pounds of potash or a good lye. Handle the cotton 
in it, wash well, and handle in a bath of 10J pounds 
sumach which has boiled half an hour. Pass to 
the solution of tin at 15°, then to the Brazil 
wood, pound by pound, in a jar. 

This operation requires two men ; one takes out 
2 pails in each jar, and the other when the cotton 
is passed; pour them in another jar, and when you 
have passed 25} pounds, you handle the whole in 
a large jar to exhaust well the bath, then you begin 
again the same quantity. For 103 pounds of cot- 
ton you take — 



FORMULA OF MODERN" DYES. 89 

51| pounds of Brazil Wood, 

8j" « " Yellow Wood, or 56f lbs. 

of Brazil, 
4J pounds of Yellow Wood. 
For 51 J pounds of Cotton, you use — 
31 pounds of Brazil Wood, 
4J pounds of Yellow Wood. 
Generally the wood is boiled twice. The Bra- 
zil wood red does not want to be washed or sized. 

44. Sandal Red. 

.Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass the cotton in jars containing 10 J pounds of 
sumach, boil half an hour; then pass the cotton in 
the mordant as the Brazil red, but without wring- 
ing, and leave to rest for three hours. Wash and 
wring out with the peg. Then prepare a square 
kettle with cold water and add to it 103 pounds of 
sandal wood. Manipulate the cotton in it whilst 
cold, leave to rest a little, and from time to time give 
a turn in heating gradually till boiling ; boil for 
one hour, raise the cotton once in a while, and be- 
fore to take it out, add in the bath 2 glasses of 
hydrochloric acid for 24} of cotton, then wash 
well. The proportion to use are 33 ounces of 
sandal for 33 ounces of cotton. 

45-. Rose with Wood. 
Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass the bleached cotton in the solution of tin 
8* 



90 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

at 10°, then in 31 pounds of Brazil. The bath 
being exhausted, you add for 10J pounds of cotton 
1 glass of salt of tin mordant. It is no use to 
wash. 

46. Rose with Wood. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Handle in a very weak bath of annotto, wring out 
with the peg, pass to the mordant as the red, wring ; 
then pass to the red wood whilst hot, w r ring out 
with the peg, and the operation is done. 

47. Rose ivith Saffron. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Put the saffron in a bag thick enough to prevent 
it from passing through, and introduce it for jone 
or two nights in running water to wash it well, then 
express the water from the bag by pressure, put 
the bag again in running water, and wash it well. 

After the washing empty the saffron in the 
saffron tub, in which it exists an empty space 
from 2 to 3 inches, and which is separated by a 
board full of holes, and covered itself with a cloth 
thick enough to prevent the saffron from pass- 
ing through; till the tub with cold water, and 
stir well in beginning by the top, and going 
gradually down. 

Let run the first water and fill with new water 
to which you add a bowl full of potash (carbonate 
of potash is better). The saffron disengages 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 91 

its color. Stir the bath well and let to rest 
a little while. Draw the liquid in a jar placed 
under the tub; divide this liquid in two large jars, 
put in each of them 20} pounds of cotton with 
two glasses of sulphuric acid ; leave the cotton 
in till the bath is exhausted, wring out with 
the peg, and prepare a new bath like the first. 
When this second bath is exhausted, wring out 
the cotton with the peg, put it on sticks to wash in 
a large tub of hot water, wring out with the peg, 
put on the sticks again, brighten in a bath of fresh 
water with 8 pints of vinegar for 51} pounds of 
cotton. If it is one pass left to wash, empty half 
of the bath, and add some fresh bath. If it is 
some to size f put a little vinegar in the size be- 
fore beginning. 



48. Rice- Straw Color. 

i 51J 1 

about 



Use 51J lbs. of Bleached Cotton, and take 



1 large spoon of Sugar of Lead, 
1 " " Bichromate of Potash, 

which you dissolve separately in hot water. 

The baths must be cold to use them ; the lighter 
the color must be, the colder the baths. For rice 
straw color take water just enough to dissolve 
the above drugs, -which are divided for the 51 J 
pounds of cotton. Pass the cotton only once 
in each jar in beginning by the sugar of lead. 



92 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

The passes are of 10J pounds at a time, in large 
jars, to have a uniform color. Wash well. 

49. Light Straw. 

Operations similar to the above, only take 
a little more sugar of lead and chromate. You 
can take 31 pounds of cotton, and pass it twice in 
each jar, without adding anything in the baths. 

50. Ordinary Straw. 

Operate as above, only the quantities employed 
are larger. 

51. Canary Yellow. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. Take— 
25 ounces Sugar of Lead, 
16} " Bichromate of Potash. 
Operate in large jars ; handle in tepid baths of 
sugar of lead, then of bichromate. Eepeat the 
operation two or three times without adding any- 
thing ; but if you have the desired color after the 
first pass, it is useless to continue. 

52. Dark Yellow. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Boil together for 1 hour— 

10^ lbs. of Sugar of Lead, 
85} ounces of Litharge. 
Then prepare two large jars and fill them with 
cold and warm water ; it does not make any differ- 



FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. 93 

ence, provided the baths are warm. In the first 
put from the above solution, and in the second, 
10J pounds of bichromate of potash. Pass 1° to 
the mordant of lead, wring out with the peg, 2° 
pass to the bichromate, wring out with the peg. 
Eepeat this operation. When the bath of bichro- 
mate is exhausted for the second time, take out 
the cotton without wringing it, and add in the 
chromate bath 5 or 6 ordinary glasses of hydro- 
chloric acid, sometimes 8 or even 10 glasses; this 
depends from the cotton ; when it is not enough the 
first time, you add some more. You want the 
cotton to become very smooth, and you have to add 
hydrochloric acid in the bath, till it becomes so; 
when it has the required shade, wring it out with 
the hand, and then wash it well. 

When you have only 103 lbs. of cotton to dye, 
you make passes of 25f lbs. ; the mordant bath or 
salt of lead can be used for the whole, but the bath 
of bichromate must be fresh for every 25} lbs. 

When you make the yellow and that you have 
enough old mordant (see Orange) it is no use to 
boil some new one, but if it is not enough old one, 
you take it and add to it some new one, but less ; 
when you add new mordant, you have to boil it 
and stir it a long time with a stick, because the 
litharge dissolves with difficulty. 



91 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

53. Orange. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Boil one hour — 

14 J lbs. of Sugar of Lead, 
14 J lbs. of Litharge. 

Pass twice in jars, the first time wring out with 
the peg. The advance is done with — 
2 bowls of old mordant, 
2 bowls of new, 
2 bowls of water. 

If you have no old mordant, take half water 
and half mordant, till it is enough bath in the jar, 
then continue with a bowl of fresh mordant ; the 
second time, you do not wring out with the peg, 
fix in a heap near the jar and leave all night ; 
then wring out with the peg and pass in a bath 
of 10J lbs. of lime, wash, prepare another tepid 
bath with 10J lbs. of bichromate, and handle the 
cotton in till exhausted ; add then 3 glasses of 
sulphuric acid by pass from 20J to 25| lbs. of 
bichromate ; sometimes you have to add 5 glasses 
of acid according to the cotton; after this you pre- 
pare a boiling bath in which you dissolve lime ; you 
use about half of this 10J lbs. of lime to pass the 
103 lbs. of cotton for the second time ; you must 
operate very quick, without that, the cotton is not 
smooth ; that is why it is better to make passes 
only of 10 J lbs. For every pass prepare fresh baths. 
When the cotton is smooth, handle without 
wringing it, in another jar of fresh water to refresh 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 95 

it ; give it a few turns, take it out and wash it. In 
the lime bath, the cotton ought to be smooth after 
giving few turns. When the 103 lbs. of cotton 
are passed for the first time to the mordant in jars, 
put the product wrung out in the kettle, and 
heat a little. All that is left of mordant is 
put aside in a little barrel {see Yellow). Use 33 
ounces of lime for 41 J lbs. the first and second 
times. 

54. Light Fresh Butter. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Prepare two large jars of tepid water, In the 
first put one glass of iron mordant and in the 
second a little Jye, then pass the bleach cotton once 
in each jar and wash. 

55. Ordinary Fresh Butter. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate as the preceding color, only use a little 
more iron mordant and lye. 

56. Light Rust. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate as for the ordinary butter, but use larger 
proportions of drugs. 

For those two shades, light and ordinary rust, 
if you wish to pass them to the annotto, take 
for the ordinary rust about 33 to 49 h ounces for 
206 lbs. of cotton, and for the light rust a little 



96 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

less than half of this quantity ; this vary according 
to the shade to obtain. 

57. Ordinary Rust. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate as the above, only with larger quantities. 

58. Darh Rust. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
For this shade instead of mordant of iron, 
use copperas and take a little more lye. If the 
cotton is not dark enough after passing once in 
each jar, pass it again a second time, but only 
when it has left its greenish shade. Use 16| 
ounces of copperas for 33 ounces of cotton. 
Sometimes you pass again in a bath of 8J lbs. 
of annotto for 206 lbs. of cotton. 

59. Light Chamois. 

Give a light fresh butter bottom, then a warm 
bath in which you add a little annotto boiled be- 
forehand ; pass the cotton in it and wash well. 

60. Darh Chamois. 

Give an ordinary fresh butter bottom, add a 
little more annotto than for the above, wash well. 
The annotto bath must be warm. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 97 

61. Orange Chamois. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye rust, then boil together — 
4J lbs. of Annotto, 
4 J lbs. of Potash. 

Handle the cotton in this bath while very warm, 
and wash it. 

Generally the warmer the bath of annotto, the 
better and quicker the color takes. 

If you have no potash you can use a good lye. 
The cottoD must be bleached. 

Handle the bleach cotton in a tepid bath of 2 J 
glasses of iron mordant to begin, and 2 glasses to 
continue ; handle in the lye. Pass once in each 
jar, wring out with the peg every time, then pass 
to the annotto, wash only when out of the annotto. 

62. Nut Gray. 

Prepare two large jars, one with weak catechu 
boiled with blue vitriol, the other with weak bi- 
chromate ; handle the cotton in once, then wash ; 
afterwards prepare a bath in little jars with a little 
catechu and copperas, and when the bath is ex- 
hausted, draw out and wash. 

63. Yellow Gray. 

Pass once to catechu and bichromate as for nut 
gray ; wash and prepare a bath in little jars, with 
a little catechu and a little glass of pyrolignite of 
9 



yo COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

iron. Take out and prepare another bath with a 
little quercitron and one bowl of alum. 

6i. Cambric. 

You operate as for the yellow gray, only the 
quercitron bath is weaker, but you add to it a 
little red wood ; wash well. 

65. Vigonia. 

Pass to catechu and bichromate in large jars, 
once or twice in each, according to the specimen; 
wring out with the peg; pass in little jars in a bath 
of logwood, quercitron and pyrolignite of iron. 
Sometimes you add also Brazil wood, very little 
of each ; be careful to use tepid baths, then wash 
well. 

66. Dead Leave No. 1. 

Pass to weak catechu boiled with blue vitriol 
and to the weak bichromate ; then pass in a weak 
bath of quercitron with a little alum. 

67. Bead Leave No. 2. 

Operate as the above, only use a little more 
quercitron. 

68. Lead Leave No. 3. 

Operate as No. 2, only use more quercitron and 
a little logwood. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 99 

69. Light Gray Avanturine. 

Handle the bleached cotton in a weak bath of 
catechu boiled with blue vitriol ; then handle in 
another weak bath of bichromate, and brighten 
with soda. 

70. Gray Avanturine. 

Operate like the above, only the baths are 
stronger and the cotton is unbleached. 

71. Light Avanturine. 

Use 103 pounds of unbleached Cotton. 
Give a little bottom of catechu 33 ounces, and 
then operate as for the gray avanturine. 

72. Nut. 

Use unbleached cotton; pass as for the gray 
avanturine, and when you have passed the cotton 
for the second time to the catechu, add in this 
last bath a few drops of pyrolignite of iron, then 
brighten. 

73. Yellow Nut. 

Operate as for nut, only instead to brighten, 
handle in a weak bath of quercitron with a little 
Brazil wood. 

74. Gray Nut. 
Operate as for the nut, only it is no use to 



100 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING-. 

brighten, and you take a little more of pyrolignite 
of iron ; you handle again in a very weak bath of 
quercitron and Brazil wood. 

75. Dark Nut. 

Boil catechu with blue vitriol, then pass the 
unbleached cotton twice to the catechu and twice 
to the chromate; then pass again to the catechu 
with a little pyrolignite of iron, and at last pass 
as gray nut in a weak bath of quercitron and 
Brazil wood. 

For 31 pounds of Cotton use — 
6 J pounds of Catechu ; 
33 ounces of Blue Yitriol. 
16} ounces of Bichromate of Potash. 
Pass to the catechu, wring out with the peg. 
Pass to the bichromate, wring out with the peg. 
Pass to the catechu with two glasses of pyro- 
lignite of iron and wash. 

76. Reseda Gray. 

Use 20} pounds of unbleached Cotton. 
Pass the cotton to the quercitron the same as water 
green, 33 ounces at a time in small jars. When 
the bath is exhausted, add to it one small glass of 
pyrolignite of iron in each jar, or for 10J pounds 
of cotton two glasses of alum mordant. 



FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. 101 

77. Silver Gray. 

Handle the bleached cotton in a weak bath of 
gall-nut, wring out with the peg; handle in a weak 
bath of pyrolignite of iron or copperas, wring out 
with the peg; then terminate in small jars with a 
little Brazil wood and alum. The two first baths 
are done in large jars. 

78. Pearl Gray. 

Operate like silver gray, pass to the gall, then 
to the pyrolignite of iron, only you use more; 
terminate in a bath composed of two bowls of 
logwood and one of alum from the tun, for every 
10 J of cotton. 

79. Ash Gray. 

Operate as the above, only to terminate handle 
in a bath of quercitron and alum. 

80. Mouse Gray. 

Operate as the above, only the last bath is done 
with quercitron, Brazil wood and alum. 

81. Eye Gray. 

Give a middle gray bottom, then handle like 
the pearl gray in a bath composed of two bowls 
of logwood and one of alum. 



9* 



102 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

82. Ass Gray. 

Give a middle gray bottom, and terminate as 
the mouse gray with quercitron, Brazil wood and 
alum. 

83. Yellowish Gray. 
Give a silver gray bottom, and terminate in a 
weak bath of quercitron, logwood and alum. 

84. Moss Gray. 

Operate as the pearl gray, only take a little 
more quercitron, logwood and alum. 

85. Violet. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle in a bath of 10J lbs. of sumach, then to the 
salt of tin mordant, wash, then pass in small jars in 
a bath of 41 J lbs. of logwood, and when the bath 
is exhausted, add in each jar some salt of tin 
mordant, one ordinary glass for every 10£ lbs. of 
cotton ; wash well. 

86. Chestnut Violet. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a bottom with 33 ounces of annotto, then 
continue like the violet with 41 J lbs. of logwood. 



FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. 103 

87. Paliaca. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
At first handle in 10^ lbs. of sumach, then in the 
mordant of salt of tin, wash, pass in small jars 
containing — ■ 

25 J lbs. of Logwood, 
15 £ " Brazil Wood. 
When the bath is exhausted, add salt of tin 
mordant and wash well. 

88. Bed Paliaca. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a bottom with 33 ounces of annotto, and 
continue like the above. 

89. Crimson. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle in a bath of 10J pounds of Sumach ; pass 
to the salt of tin mordant ; wash in small jars. 
Pass the cotton in a bath composed of — 
62 lbs. Brazil Wood, 
33 ounces of Logwood. 
When the bath is exhausted, add to it one glass 
of salt of tin mordant for every 10J pounds of 
cotton ; wash well. 

90. Yellow Crimson. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a bottom with 33 ounces of annotto, and 
continue like the above. 



104 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

91. Bronze. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Prepare the cotton iron-gray ; pass to the alum 
mordant ; then handle in a bath composed of — 
31 lbs. of Quercitron, 
6| " Eed-wood. 
When the bath is exhausted, add sugar of lead 
and wash. 

92. Olive. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Prepare the cotton iron-gray; pass to the alum 
mordant, then in a bath of 51} pounds of quer- 
citron, and when the bath is exhausted, add to it 
sugar of lead. Wash. You must use a handful 
of sugar of lead for 24J pounds of cotton. 

93. Dark Olive. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate as above, only you employ 
24f lbs. of Quercitron, 
10\ " Logwood. 

94. Canella. 
Use 175| lbs. of Cotton. 
Boil with a good lye 49 ounces of annotto ; pass 
the cotton in this bath, and wash well. 
Boil for two hours — 

10J lbs. of Brazil Wood, 
16} " Catechu, 
9J " Alum. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 105 

For every pass of 31 pounds of cotton use from 
4 to 8 ounces of bichromate. 

Pass the cotton twice to the chromate and 
twice to the catechu, in beginning by the catechu 
and adding to it for every pass two pails of Brazil 
wood, brighten with 10 J pounds of soda ; wash 
well. 

95. Sandal- Grenat. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Boil for two hours — 

7} lbs. of Catechu, 
7J " Gall-nuts. 

Handle in it the cotton twice; afterwards, in 33 
ounces of chromate. Leave to rest a few hours ; 
wash and wring well ; then prepare a cold bath 
in a square kettle with 103 pounds of sandal-wood. 
Give to the cotton a few turns in it while cold, 
then heat little by little. This operation must last 
about one hour, or till the bath begins to boil, and 
when it boils pass the cotton for one hour. 

96. Lilac with OrJcanet. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
You soak in a barrel with alcohol, for twenty- 
four hours — 

10J lbs. of OrJcanet (for light lilac), 

15J " for middling lilac, 

20i " for dark lilac. 



106 COTTOX AXD WOOL DYEIXG. 

Press the orlcanet in the tun barrel, and add the 
alcohol to cover it. After twenty-four hours, 
draw the alcohol and put it in a square kettle 
with water, and wash the root till the water passes 
nearly colorless. 

Pass the bleached cotton twice to the alum 
mordant — 

49 ounces of Alum, 
8 J " Sugar of Lead. 
Leave to settle a few hours ; wash ; wring out 
well ; then pass in the bath of orlcanet, and heat 
progressively; when the bath becomes boiling, 
take out the cotton, and let it cool ; after wash it 
well in clean water. 

If you wish the color to have a reddish shade, 
add to the bath two glasses of tin solution. If 
it has to be bluish, pass in a light soap bath. 

97. Crimson No. 1. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle in a bath of 10J pounds of sumach, then to 
the solution of tin at 15° as for the red. Then 
terminate like the ordinary red, in tubs with 
51 J pounds of Brazil wood. 

98. Crimson No. 2. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a bottom with 33 ounces of annotto, and 
continue like the above. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 107 

99. Paliaca No. 1. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in a bath of 10 J pounds of sumach ; then to 
the tin solution. Pass in tubs like the red in a 
bath composed of — 

25} lbs. of Logwood, 

15 J " Brazil Wood. 

100. Paliaca No 2. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Give a bottom with 33 ounces of annotto, and 
continue as the above. 

101. Red Paliaca No. 1. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Handle in a bath of 10 J pounds of sumach ; then 
to the solution of tin, and terminate in tubs like 
the red, in a bath composed of 32 pounds Brazil 
wood and 15J pounds Logwood. 

102. Bed Paliaca No. 2. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Give a bottom with 33 ounces of annotto ; then 
operate like the above. 

103. Park Violet. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass to the alum mordant like the green, leave 



108 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

it in for a little while ; then terminate with a bath 
of 51 J pounds of Logwood. 

104. Middling Violet. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Pass to the alum mordant as the green ; leave it 
in for a few hours if possible, and terminate like 
the red in tubs with 25f pounds of Logwood. 

105. Light Violet. 

Operate like the middling violet (104) only use 
less Logwood. 

106. Reseda No.l. 

Make a middling or iron gray; pass in a weak 
bath of quercitron with alum mordant. 

107. Reseda No.2. 

Operate like above, only you add a little Bra- 
zil wood in the bath of quercitron. 

108. Reseda JSTo.S. 

Operate like 106, only use a little Logwood. 

109. Reseda. 

Use bleached Cotton ; make a pearl gray ; mor- 
dant once with alum mordant; then pass in quer- 
citron 33 ounces for 8 J pounds of cotton ; then to 
the pyrolignite of iron. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 109 

110. Green Reseda. 

Operate like the above, only when out of the 
quercitron pass to the dissolution of indigo. 

111. Olive Reseda. 

Operate like 109, only use a little Brazil with 
the quercitron. 

112. Catechu Yellow Canella. 

Use 106 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in a bath composed of — 
10J pounds of Catechu, 
4 " " Blue Vitriol. 
Terminate with a weak bath of quercitron. 

113. Catechu Yellow Dark Canella. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in a bath composed of — 
15 J lbs. of Catechu, 
6 J lbs. of Blue Vitriol. 
Brighten with soda and terminate with woad. 

114. Light Carmelite. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton, 
Pass in a bath composed of — 

15 J lbs. of Catechu, 

6 J lbs. of Blue Vitriol. 
Continue as the above (113). 

10 



110 COTTON" AND WOOL DYEIXG. 

115. Olive Carmelite. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in a bath composed of — 
15 J lbs. of Catchu, 
4 lbs. Blue Vitriol. 
Terminate with quercitron and pyrolignite of 
iron. 

116. Light Yellow Carmelite. 

Operate like light avanturine (117); terminate 
with a little quercitron. 

117. Light Avanturine. 

Give a weak annotto bottom, a weak bath of 
catechu and alum; weak bath of chromate; brighten 
with soda. 

118. Middling Avanturine. 

Operate like the above, only the baths are a little 



stronger. 



119. Avanturine Red. 



Operate like the above, only you use a little 
Brazil with the Catechu. 

120. Bronze Olive. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in the following bath — 

15J lbs. Catechu, 

6J lbs. Blue Vitriol, 

A little Pyrolignite of Iron. 
Terminate with Quercitron. 



FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. Ill 

121. RedPalaca. 

Pass to the salt of tin mordant, and terminate 
in a bath of Logwood and Brazil. 

122. Amaranthine Red. 
Pass to the salt of tin mordant, and terminate 
with Brazil wood, 25 ounces for 33 ounces of cotton. 

123. Dark Violet. 
Pass to the mordant of salt of tin, and terminate 
with Logwood. 

124. Spring Green. 
Use bleached Cotton. 

Make a fine blue milk color on vats ; mordant twice 
in alum ; pass to the Quercitron: 16| ounces for 33 
ounces of cotton ; terminate with the dissolution 
of indigo, and add a little alum mordant. 

125. Apple Green. 

Make straw yellow color, and terminate with the 
solution of indigo. 

126. Parrot Green. 

Operate like apple-green (125), only add a little 
more blue. 

127. White Lake Green. 

Use bleached Cotton. 
Give a weak bath of quercitron ; add alum mor- 
dant ; then terminate with the dissolution of in- 
digo. 



112 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING, 

128. White Lake. 

Give a weak bath of gall; a weak bath of blue 
vitriol ; wash ; pass to the carmine of indigo, and 
add a little alum. 

129. Pink CJiamois. 

Operate as middling chamois; after washing, 
pass in a weak bath of sugar of lead. 

130. Yellow Chamois. 

Operate like middling chamois; then give a 
little straw color with chromate. 

131. Light Bruth. 

Pass to the pyrolignite of iron ; wash, and han- 
dle in a weak bath of quercitron. The cotton must 
be bleached. 

132. Ordinary Bruth. 

Use bleached Cotton. 
Make a light gray; give a weak bath of Quercitron 
and alum mordant ; wash ; give a weak bath of 
Quercitron with a little pyrolignite ; wash. 

133. Lilac- Gray. 

Give a milk-blue color on vat ; a bath of Log- 
wood with mordant and a little copperas. Wash 
and handle in soap-water. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 113 

184. Light Lilac-Blue. 

Give a milk-blue color on vats; brighten with 
vitriol; wash; handle once in alum in jars, then 
in a tepid bath composed of a small pail of Log- 
wood, a bowl of the same alum, i. e., the alum of 
the tun. 

135. Rose-Red. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a bottom with 25 ounces of annotto ; then 
continue like for the saffron (47); 16J ounces of 
saffron for 33 ounces of thread. 

For the saffron-rose take : for the dark, 33 
ounces for the same quantity of cotton ; for the 
ordinary, from -16 to 25 ounces of saffron for 33 
ounces of thread. The proportion depends on the 
quality of the saffron. Use 33 ounces of potash 
for 20 J lbs. of saffron. * 

136. Saffron- Red. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a bottom with 4J- pounds of annotto, and 
continue like for the saffron red (47). You must 
generally use 25 ounces saffron for 33 ounces 
thread. 

137. Green. 

Give a straw bottom ; then give a weak bath of 
chemical blue. 



10* 



lli COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

138. Turmeric Yellow. 

Soak turmeric in hot water ; pass in it the cot- 
ton; after giving a few turns, add 16 J ounces of 
soda for 20J pounds of thread ; give again a few 
turns ; then add in the same bath some vitriol 
and wash. 

139. Ordinary Grays. 

Pass in gall-nuts; wring out with the peg; pass 
to the pyrolignite of iron; wring out with the peg ; 
repeat these operations if the shade is not dark 
enough; then wash. 

The light, middling, dark, and iron gray are 
prepared the same with this difference, that one is 
darker than the other. The bath must be tepid, 
and you wash in jars. Use unbleached cotton. 

140. Chemical Blue. 

Make blue like No. 1 above on vats ; brighten 
with vitriol ; wash. 

First Tub. 
Use 25} lbs. of Thread. 
1st turn — 

1 bowl Salt of Tin dissolved in a pailful 
of hot water, 

2 glasses Iron Mordant. 
2d turn — 

4 glasses Iron Mordant. 



FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. 115 

3d turn — 

4 glasses Iron Mordant. 
4th turn — 

2 glasses Iron Mordant. 

Second Tub. 
1st turn — 

2 pails Logwood, 

1 glass Hydrochloric Acid, 

3 bowls Prussiate of Potash. 
2d turn — 

2 bowls Prussiate of Potash, 

25 ounces Prussiate of Potash dissolved in 
hot water, 

3 glasses Hydrochloric Acid. 
3d turn — 

3 glasses Hydrochloric Acid. 

Pass the cotton from one bath to the other ; in 
wringing out with the peg; in going out of the 
bath, you keep this bath. Operate whilst cold, 
and prepare a new bath for every 25f pounds of 
cotton. 

In the first bath of the second tub you must 
pass quickly, and give a few more turns. 

Wash well. According as you want darker or 
lighter, you give the blue darker or lighter. 

141. Genista Yellow. 
Pass whilst boiling in a bath of genista, which 
has boiled with potash, and a little verdigris. 



116 COTTOX AXD WOOL DYEING. 

142. Black. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Prepare the following bath — 

10J lbs. of Catechu, 

83 ounces Blue Vitriol, 

6J lbs. Copperas. 
Dissolve at first the blue vitriol with the catechu, 
add afterwards the copperas. Pass the cotton in 
this bath, then wring out; pass in 33 ounces of 
bichromate of potash, and leave to rest ; wash and 
terminate in a tepid bath of 51 j- lbs. of Logwood ; 
give 8 turns ; raise and add 49 J ounces of blue 
vitriol ; darken ; give 8 turns ; raise and add 4 
glasses pyrolignite of iron ; darken ; give again 8 
turns ; then wash. 

143. My Green No 1. 

Use 51 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a blue vat bottom, brighten. Pass two and 
three times in the following bath: — 

2 quarts Iron Mordant, 

8 ounces Prussiate of Potash, 

2 glasses Blue Vitriol. 
Give 8 turns in the following bath : — 

m lbs. Yellow Wood, 

33 ounces Alum. 
You can add to the bath 16 J ounces of alum. 



FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. 117 

144. Isly Green No. 2. 

Use 51 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate like the bone; only when out of the prus- 
siate pass in a bath of 16} ounces sugar of lead; 
wring out, and terminate in another bath with 25 
ounces bichromate of potash. 

145. Dark Bronze. 

Use 51} lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle in a bath composed of — 
10J lbs. Catechu, 
11 J lbs. Sulphate of Iron, 
5J- lbs. of Blue Yitriol. 
Wring out ; handle in 16} ounces of bichromate 
of potash. To redden you can take 33 ounces of 
carbonate of soda. 

146. Cherry Wood. 

Use 51} lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a sumach bottom ; wring out ; mordant with 
the solution of tin at 5°; give 8 turns in a bath of 
26} of Fernambucco; add one glass of hydrochloric 
acid. 

147. Bed with Wood. 

Use 51} lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a bottom with — 
5 lbs. of annotto, 
10 J- lbs. of soda. 



IIS COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

Wash well; give a light sumach bath; wring 
out; mordant at 5°, leave to rest 12 hours; 
terminate in a bath composed of — 
25} lbs. of Fernambucco, 
13 lbs. Yellow Wood. 
Wring without washing. 

148. Sandal Red. 
Use 51 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Make the following bath — 

20 J lbs. Hydrochloric Acid, 
20} lbs. Nitric Acid, 
8J lbs. of Salt of Tin. 
Mordant at 5°. Boil for } an hour 41 J lbs. of 
sandal wood, add to it some mordant; when out of 
the mordant, leave to rest 12 hours and wash well. 

149. Sandal Orenat No. 1. 

Use 51 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle while in sumach, wring out equally; mor- 
dant at 10° in the following — 
20} lbs. Nitric Acid, 
41 J lbs. Hydrochloric Acid, 
14} lbs. Salt of Tin, 
16} ounces of Eed Copper. 
Leave it 24 hours ; wash ; pass to the sandal 
at equal weight. Begin in a cold bath. 



FORMULAE OF MODERN DYES. 119 

150. Grenat Sandal. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Boil together — 

8 J lbs. of Gall, 

6J lbs. of Catechu. 
Handle in. Leave all night in a solution of 49J 
ounces of bichromate; wash well. Pass to the 
sandal, 2 lbs. by 2 lbs. in beginning whilst cold : 
leave one hour whilst boiling; raise and add 15 
glasses of hydrochloric acid, give 8 turns and wash. 

151. Black No. 1. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in a bath of 10 J lbs. of galls boiled 2 hours ; 
handle in 15 J lbs. of pyrolignite ; leave all night ; 
pass in 16J lbs. of lime, wash. Terminate with 
51 J lbs. of Logwood ; raise ; add a little pyrolignite 
of iron and wash well. 

152. Black No. 2. 

Pass to the sumach ; dry ; pass to the copperas; 
to the lime water ; terminate with Logwood. 

153. Black No. 3. 

Pass to the extract of chestnut tree bark at 40°, 
leave in all night ; pass to the iron mordant with 
lime; wash ; terminate to the wood, half Logwood, 
half Yellow wood. 



120 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

154:. Light France Blue. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in the following bath : — 

8J ounces Nitrate of Iron, 
2 " Salt of Tin. 
"Wash well. Handle for five minutes in a clear 
bath of 8J ounces chloride of lime. Handle in a 
bath formed of 

5 ounces Prussiate of Potash, 
10 " Sulphuric Acid. 
Wash well. 

155. Rose with Wood. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 

Soak about 2 pounds of Fernambucco in half a 
gallon of alcohol ; press well the Fernambucco in 
and leave forty-eight hours. Pass in 33 ounces 
of alum ; then in a bath of Fernambucco, and at 
last in a clear bath of one ounce of lime. Wash. 

156. Rose with Carmine. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Take from 5 J to 4 ounces of carmine of saffron, 
put the cotton in it, then handle for two hours in 
another bath containing from 4 to 5£ ounces of 
tartaric acid with 10 ounces of liquid ammonia. 
Dry. 



FORMULA OF MODERN DYES. 121 

157. Buff. 
Use 20i lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle it in a tepid bath of — 
8 J ounces Annotto, 

4 " Potash, 

8 J a Fernambucco, 

5 " Alum. 

158. Red No. 1. 
Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 

Pass it in a cold bath of — 

5£ pounds of Sumach, 
41 ounces Chloride of Tin, 
41 " Pure Alum, 
10J pounds of Bed Wood. 
It is no use to wash. 

159. Red No. 2. 
Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 

Prepare the first bath with 10J pounds of sumach, 
work in while warm, and leave it all night. Handle 
in a second bath composed of 49 ounces chloride 
of tin and 49 ounces alum. Work it in while 
cold, for about four hours. Terminate with a third 
bath composed of 10J pounds red wood and 6J 
pounds of madder. Work in whilst cold, then 
one hour to ebullition ; wash well ; handle in 

11 J ounces of Olive Oil, 

8J " Chloride of Tin, 

8J " Marseilles Soap. 
Pass one hour and the operation is done. 

11 



122 COTTON .AND WOOL DYEING. 

160. Black 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a first bath with — 

58 or 62 ounces Extract of Logwood, 
8J ounces Hydrochloric Acid, 
33 " Tan. 
Handle two hours in this bath, and dry. 
Give a second warm bath with 12.J ounces of 
bichromate of potash ; wash immediately. 

161. Chromate Green. 

Use 20| lbs. of Cotton. 
Dissolve together 49 ounces sugar of lead and 33 
ounces of lime, leave to settle, decant the clear 
part, pass the blue cotton in the thick part, turn ; 
wash well in the clear mordant ; give 8 turns in 
25 ounces of bichromate of potash ; repeat this 
operation several times, in adding every time a 
small glass of sulphuric acid. 

162. Green with Quercitron. 

Use 31 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass to the blue in the vat ; brighten ; wash well ; 
pass twice to mordant in 8J pounds of alum and 
25 ounces of salsoda ; and pass afterwards in 20 J 
to 25} pounds of Quercitron, the bath must be 
just hot enough to keep the hand in. Leave the 
cotton in till it has the required shade. 



OLD SHADES. 123 

163. Dark Yellow. 

Use 41 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Mordant with 8£ pounds sugar of lead and 82 
ounces of litharge. Then pass while cold in -im- 
pounds of thick lime, wash ; then pass in a tepid 
bath of 6J pounds bichromate of potash and two 
quarts hydrochloric acid, and when the bath is 
hot enough to keep the hand in, add again two 
quarts till it boils ; work the cotton all time, and 
wash well. 



AKTICLE III. 

OLD SHADES. 

1. Orange. 

Give to the cotton a strong bottom with an- 
notto; wash well; wring out to the peg ; prepare 
a strong mordant with sugar of lead, and pass in 
it the cotton while very warm. 

2. Yellow Buff. 

Use 10^ lbs. of Cotton. 
Make a dissolution of 4 ounces of nitric acid 
and 16J ounces of iron; pour from this dissolu- 
tion in hot water, pass the cotton in, wash and 
wring out with the peg, brighten with white soap 



124 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

wash ; it is necessary that the buff was very 
dark. 

3. Fly Wing. 

Prepare the buff, wash well, then pass in a bath 
of weak gall. 

4. Red Chestnut 

Pass to the gall twice, and dry every time ; give 
two passages in alum, and dry every time; two 
soakings, the first at 3° and the second at 1§°; 
wash after each soaking. 

To pass to the madder, use 20 ounces of madder 
for every pound of cotton. 

When out of the madder, boil and wash well ; 
then darken with 49 ounces of copperas for 103 
pounds of cotton. The manipulation is done in 
cold water. 

5. False Red. 

Prepare the following mordant: 4J pounds 
nitric acid, 8J pounds hydrochloric acid, raise to 
5° ; then give a strong bottom of annotto ; wash, 
pass to the gall in which you have put some tur- 
meric ; pass to the mordant, and give two baths 
of Brazil wood, very warm. 

6. Brown. 

Boil with soda for four hours, wash on two 
hands, dry well; give two passages in gall, dry 
each time; two passages in alum, dry each time. 
Two soakings, the first at 3°, the second at 1J°; 



OLD SHADES. 125 

two good washings; pass to 20 ounces of madder 
for every pound of cotton; add a little turmeric to 
the madder. Darken with 33 ounces of copperas 
for 103 pounds of cotton. The copperas must be 
put in fresh water, handful by handful, so as to 
see the coming of the shade. 

7. Brown. 
Give a good strong bottom of gall, give a strong 
darkening ; wash well ; pass to the annotto ; then 
prepare a lye of soda to pass the cotton in, and to 
give it the required shade. 

8. Good Dye Violet with Madder. 
Boil with four pounds of potash for 103 pounds 
of cotton ; wash on two hands ; dry, give two pas- 
sages in galls, and dry each time. Dissolve in a 
kettle, first — 

20J lbs. alum. 
Then— 

41 ounces of Potash, 
20J lbs. Blue Vitriol, 
31 " of Copperas. 
Pass the cotton, while warm, in this mordant 
after leaving it to rest ; darken it and wring it out to 
the peg the first time and to the hook the second ; 
leave it, wash on four hands; pass to the madder 
twice at the rate of 2-4 ounces of madder for one 
pound of cotton. Wash and brighten with white 
soap at the rate of 15 per cent. 
11* 



126 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

9. Silver Gray, 

Use 51} of Cotton. 

Prepare the following bath : — 

1 pint of Gall, 

2 quarts of Logwood. 

Manipulate in a tub. Darken ; wring to the peg ; 
then pass in a bath composed of — 

33 ounces Copperas, 

49 " Blue Yitriol, 

25 " Alum. 
Wring out to the peg. 

10. Madder Lilac. 

Use 10| lbs. of Cotton- 
Make the following dissolution : — 
2 lbs. Nitric Acid, 
1 " Iron. 
Pour some of this dissolution in warm water r 
enough as necessary to pass the cotton in jars ; 
it gives to the cotton a buff shade. "Wash strongly 
on 7 hands, wring out to the peg. Pass to the 
madder about ten ounces for every pound of 
cotton, be careful not to leave the cotton rest in 
the madder ; brighten with white soap. Chlorine 
is used when you wish to give blue after the 
brightening. 

11. Great Dye Lilac. 

Use 20}. lbs. of Cotton. 

Pass in the following composition, three little 



OLD SHADES. 127 

white of oil, one bath of salt at 1°, and one scour- 
ing. Wash. Give a very weak bath of gall, then 
mordant with — 

4 lbs. Alum, 

1 " Copperas, 

25 ounces Blue Vitriol. 
Pass to the bath of madder 31 pounds. Brighten 
with 49 ounces of potash and 49 ounces of soap 
for one hour. 

12. Good Dye Carmelite. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 

After the discharging, wash on four hands and 
dry; pass to the gall twice, 15 J pounds of gall for 
the two operations, dry each time, mordant with — 
25| lbs. of crystallized Alum, 
10J " Sugar of Lead, 
15 J " of Copperas. 

The bath must bcnear boiling; leave the mor- 
dant to settle and cut the alum with 25 ounces of 
potash. 

Pass afterwards in jars with this mordant very 
warm, darken, wring out to the peg; darken; shake 
well and leave two hours ; wash on six hands ; 
pass to the madder 77J pounds for 103 pounds of 
cotton and four pounds of turmeric; pass to the 
madder twice, wash twice and give to the cotton 
two turns when boiling for the second time. 



128 COTTON AXD WOOL DYEING. 

13. Good Dye Chestnut 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Discharge with 4 to 6 J pounds of soda per cent., 
wash and dry ; pass to the gall twice with 15 J 
pounds of gall, and dry each time. 
Dissolve — 

41 J lbs. of Alum, 
25 ounces of Potash, 
10J lbs. of Copperas. 
Take the mordant of the kettle and leave it to 
settle, afterwards pass in it the cotton very warm, 
wring out to the peg; darken; shake; leave alone 
for one hour; wash on six hands; pass with 25 
ounces of madder for every pound of cotton. 

14. Fresh Butter. 

Dissolve potash, and leave it to settle; dissolve a 
little copperas, and leave it to settle. Handle the 
cotton in the potash, wring 6ut to the peg ; leave 
alone a little while ; then pass to the copperas and 
wash. 

15. Good Dye Giraffe. 

Make a light rust ; handle in a bath of annotto 
boiled with potash ; handle afterwards in gall in a 
tub, and wash. 

16. Bronze. 

Use 20 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Make a dark rust, and wash; wring out to the peg; 



OLD SHADES. 129 

handle in gall ; handle in a bath of 4| pounds of 
Fustic ; add a little madder with the gall. 

17. False Red. 

Give a strong bottom of annotto ; wash ; give 
a little gall with turmeric; wring out to the peg; 
pass to the solution of tin at 5J° ; pass twice in a 
very warm bath of Brazil. 

18. Red with Madder. 

Use from 3 to 4 ounces of gall for every pound 
of cotton ; give two baths of ordinary alum, or 
better of acetate of alumina; pass to the madder 12 
ounces for every pound, and brighten a few minutes 
with a light bath of soap very warm. 

19. Yellow with Turmeric. 

Take one pound of turmeric, and put it in warm 
water; stir well; put the cotton in this bath, and 
add to it 8J ounces of soda. When the bath is 
about exhausted, raise the cotton and add to it a 
small glass of sulphuric acid, then refresh and 
wash well. 

20. False Blue. 

Use 10J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass the cotton to the Logwood; wring out to the 
peg; mordant with 

8 J ounces of Alum, 

3 glasses of Pyrolignite. 



130 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

Pass in sticks; wring out to the peg; handle the 
cotton in the Logwood again at a gentle heat; leave 
alone some time before to wring. 

21. Rose. 

Take 16 ounces of saffron for 2 pounds of cot- 
ton; 8 J pounds of soda for 31 pounds of saffron; 
and 25 ounces of cream tartar to brighten. 

22. Light Chestnut. 

Use 103 lbs. of Cotton. 
Discharge with potash for four hours ; wash and 
dry; pass to the gall twice, with ten per cent, of 
gall; dry twice; mordant with — 

31 lbs. of Alum, 

25 ounces Potash, 

8 J lbs. Copperas. 
Pass to the madder 49 ounces for every 33 ounces 
of thread. 

23. Meat Color with Madder. 

Put madder in a kettle with a little water, and 
make a thick paste, that you rub very fine. Take 
of it about 10 ounces for every 33 ounces of 
thread ; then prepare the mordant of crystallized 
alum, cut it with potash, and add a little sugar of 
lead ; pass in this mordant very warm ; wash ; 
soak a little if you wish, and wash ; wring out 
strongly to the peg, and pass to the madder not 
boiling. Brighten much with white soap. 



OLD SHADES. 131 

24. Dove. 

Pass to the gall one pound for 100 pounds of 
thread ; wring out strongly to the peg ; prepare 
the mordant like the chestnut — 
16J ounces Sugar of Lead, 

4 " Copperas, 
33 " Alum. 
The alum is cut with potash ; wash and pass 
to the madder with 33 ounces. 

25. Gray- Green. 

Pass in a weak bath of gall ; afterwards to the 
pyrolignite of iron to give a light gray bottom. 
Wash; boil a"b.out 8 J ounces of woad without pot- 
ash for every 33 ounces of cotton; add a little 
Logwood and verdigris in the woad bath. Work 
it in a tub. 

26. Dark Olive. 

Darken with gall and pyrolignite of iron ; pass 
to the Quercitron with a little Verdigris. 

27. Leather. 

Make a dark buff with annotto, and then a little 
gall. 

2*8. Paliaca. 

Use 51| lbs. of Cotton. 
Discharge the cotton four hours in 33 ounces of 
potash ; wash on two hands and dry. Pass in— 



132 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

3J lbs. of Gall, 

20J " Alum, 

S£ " Blue Vitriol, 

2 J * Copperas. 
Afterwards pass to the madder 3 pounds for every 
33 ounces of thread ; and brighten with 3 pounds 
of very warm soda. 

29. Light Green. 

Pass in the warm dissolution of iron with sugar 
of lead ; then in another warm bath of prussiate of 
potash and chromate. 

30. False Dye Carmelite. 

Give a strong darkening ; pass in gall 6 ounces 
for every 33 ounces of thread; give another dark- 
ening with a strong decoction of pyrolignite of 
iron ; leave alone for at least 2 hours, then wash 
on two hands ; wiring out to the peg ; pass in a 
strong bath of annotto, wring again with the peg ; 
pass to the alum mordant in jars and the operation 
is achieved. 

31. Great Dye Violet. 

Use 103 pounds of Cotton. 
Scour with two or three baths of oil and a bath 
of salt; pass to the gall 3 ounces for 33 ounces of 
cotton ; dry. Pass in a mordant composed of — 

Green Copperas 31 to 37 pounds; 

Blue Vitriol from 6J to 8J pounds, 

Water about 26 gallons. 



OLD SHADES. 133 

When all is dissolved in boiling water, pass 
the cotton in it, wring out to the hand, wash 
strongly, wring out to the peg; pass to the madder 
twice. When the cotton is cooled, wash with run- 
ning water, brighten in a soap bath. If you wish 
to have a bluish violet, brighten with soap dis- 
solved in a weak lye at 1° ; if you wish a reddish 
shade, brighten with white soap, 16J pounds to 
20J for 100 pounds of cotton, and keep boiling. 

The violet thus obtained is a dark violet, and 
consequently if you wish lighter shades you have 
.only to diminish the strength of the bath. These 
shades are finer if you use Smyrna madder. 

If you wish a bishop violet, you have only to 
add from 5J to 6\ pounds of alum to the mordant 
and operate like the other violet. 

32. Black-Blue. 

Pass to Logwood ; pass twice in gall in jars 20 
pounds of gall for 100 of cotton ; wring out to the 
peg ; pass to the pyrolignite of iron with a little 
blue vitriol; leave to rest 3 hours, or even half a 
day; wash, wring out to the peg ; handle in a bath 
of oil cut by soda, 1 pound for 100. 

33. Black-Black. 

Pass twice in the gall, 8 J ounces for every 33 
ounces of cotton, give two iron baths, and leave 
the cotton alone for at least 4 hours ; wash, pass 
12 



134 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

to weak lime, wring to the peg; pass to the tepid 
Logwood; then to the oil. 

34. Lavalliere Cloak. 

Give a strong bottom of annotto; wash ; pass to 
the alumina or alum mordant ; pass in a bath of 
Brazil wood with a little Yellow wood. 

35. Blue with Prussiate. 
Give a little rust bottom, wash; dissolve prussi- 
ate of potash in warm water, and pass the cotton 
in it, after giving a few turns, add in the same 
bath for 20J pounds of cotton, one glass of sul- 
phuric acid, then refresh with clean water. 

36. Rhine Water. 

Make gray on two hands ; boil 2 hours with- 
out potash 4 pounds of woad for 20 pounds of 
cotton ; pass in this bath with a little verdigris. 

37. Olive Green. 

Pass to the gall, 4 ounces for every 33 ounces 
of cotton, wring out to the peg; pass to the pyrolig- 
nite; leave alone; wash on 4 hands*; pass in a very 
warm bath of woad, pound by pound with a little 
Logwood and Yerdigris. 

38. Yellow with Quercitron. 
Use 37 pounds of Cotton. Prepare the follow- 
ing: bath: 33 ounces of alum, 33 ounces sugar of 



STIFFENING FOR SCOTCH THREAD, ETC. 135 

lead cut with lye of soda or potash; leave to set- 
tle, pass to the Quercitron pound by pound in a 
square kettle ; after giving few turns, add in the 
Quercitron bath some kitchen salt ; leave to boil 
J an hour and wash. 



ARTICLE III. 



THREAD AND BORDERINGS. 
1. Scotch Thread. 

You stiffen all colors, but the blue with prussi- 
ate; for the others take J an ounce of yellow 
wax for every 2 pounds of cotton, and f of an 
ounce of Marseilles soap for every 3J ounces of 
wax. 

2. 

To stiffen the black, take J an ounce of yellow 
wax for 2 pounds of cotton, afterwards § of an 
ounce, of Marseilles soap for every 3J ounces of 
wax, and you add a glass of cut oil. 

3. Blach Bordering. 

For 31 pounds of bordering give 8 turns in 
a glass of cut oil, then eight turns in 14 ounces of 
fecula. 



136 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

4. Black for Ireland Thread. 

Melt 1J ounce of tallow for every 33 ounces 
of thread and add | ounce of cut oil, then pass the 
thread in it, wring out and dry. 

Melt | ounce of white wax ; when well melted, 
add by little quantities some carbonate of potash 
till the wax becomes white ; add a piece of car- 
bonate about the size of a nut, wring and dry. 
Before passing to the sizing machine, pass in 
3 quarts of Logwood, 
2 " " Water, 

7 ounces of Eoasted Fecula {Dextrine). 
Boil the whole half an hour, and add 3 J ounces 
of starch of the first quality. 



MORDANTS AND ACIDS. 137 



CHAPTER III. 

German Dyes {Saxony and other Places.) 






ARTICLE I. 

MORDANTS AND ACIDS TO BRIGHTEN. 

1. Red Mordant. 
Take 14 lbs. of hydrochloric acid and 7J lbs. 
of nitric acid, dissolve in them little by little 3 
lbs. 10 ounces of pure tin. 

2. Violet Mordant. 
Take 14J lbs. of nitric acid and 1\ of hydro- 
chloric acid and dissolve in them little by little 4 
lbs. 10 ounces of pure tin. 

3. Iron Mordant. 
Take 16 J lbs. of nitric acid and 4 lbs. of hydro- 
chloric acid, dissolve in them from 4J to 6J lbs. 
of old nails, then saturate with 4 to 6| lbs. of 
sulphate of iron. The dissolution operated, fill 
bottles with it and keep well corked out of the 
contact of the air. 

12* 



138 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

4. Physic for Rose with Wood. 
Boil two or three times 24f lbs. of Fernambucco 
and let to reduce till you have only 3 gallons, 
then add enough of the above red mordant till 
the solution marks 2° Baume; leave alone for 24 
hours and then it is ready to use. 

5. Purification of Alum containing Iron. 
Dissolve the alum in enough water to prevent 
it to crystallize, and to this solution add a little 
prussiate of potash ; leave 6 to 8 hours, decant, and 
the blue deposit contains the iron contained in the 
alum. 



ARTICLE II. 

RECEIPTS TO DYE. 

1. White. 

Use 201 lbs. of Cotton. 
Macerate in 4 gallons of water, 27 ounces of 
chloride of lime, leave to rest for half an hour ; then 
dissolve 33 ounces of Glauber's salt in 4 gallons 
of water, add it to the bath of chloride and leave it 
for half an hour. Add to this bath 3f ounces of 
purified and dissolved soda, shake carefully and 
let to settle. To this clear lye add enough cold and 
warm water till the bath is warm enough to keep 






RECEIPTS TO DYE. 139 

the hand in ; pour in it the thread which has been 
prepared and cleaned in a bath of 16 ounces of 
soda for two hours ; wash ; pass it five times and 
leave it in two hours; shake several times and put 
in the bath for three hours ; wash carefully and 
the operation is achieved. 

2. Pah Yellow. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 

Pass the bleached thread in a bath of warm 
water ; wring it out strongly ; and dip it in a cold 
bath of 16J ounces of sugar of lead ; pass it five 
times and leave it in for one hour; wash carefully, 
wring out, and introduce in a cold bath of 8J 
ounces of bichromate of potash, wash and wring 
carefully. 

3. Middling Yellow. 

Use 20J pounds of cotton. 

Operate as above, only pass twice ; to the last 
pass add to the bath of potash two cups of hydro- 
chloric acid, and leave it in for one hour. Wash 
once and the operation is achieved. 

4. Bright Yellow. 

Use 20 J pounds of Cotton. 

Operate with unbleached cotton that you dip 
few hours in an old orange mordant (No. 5), then 
pass in a bath hot enough to keep the hand ; this 
bath is formed with a thick milk of lime prepared 



140 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

with 16J ounces of lime; work the thread in for 
one-half hour, wash carefully. When out of this 
bath, dip in a cold bath of 16J ounces of potash, 
pass in it five times, then add to the bath four 
cups of hydrochloric acid ; turn half an hour ; 
then add four cups of acid ; leave in five or six 
hours in raising from time to time. If you are in 
a hurry, give the dyeing bath in a kettle, in rais- 
ing the temperature, pass the thread five times in 
this bath and the operation is achieved. 

5. Orange. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 

To mordant introduce for one night in 49 oun- 
ces sugar of lead and 33 ounces of litharge. Pass 
in a thick warm paste of 33 ounces of lime ; wash 
carefully ; then pass in 33 ounces of chromate, 16 J 
ounces of alum, a cup of sulphuric acid; to red- 
den, you use the same 33 ounces of lime. 

The same mordant can be used over again if it 
seems fresh, but then the dose must be increased. 

6. Bed Grenat. 
Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye first the thread bright yellow with 6 to 
8 J pounds of turmeric; then introduce in a bath 
made with 15 cups of extract of saffron and 3 
cups of sulphuric acid and leave to itself in this 
bath 6 to 8 hours ; then achieve with 8 J pounds 
of tartaric acid. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 141 

7. Red with Wood. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Dip all night in 8 J pounds of sumach, then acidu- 
late with 4 cups red mordant (for this addition it 
must be fresh, otherwise it requires double). From 
there carry again in the old bath of sumach and 
pass 5 times, then dip in a boiling bath and after- 
wards in the following mordant — 

33 ounces Alum, 

8J " Eed Salt. 
Shake several times and leave 3 hours ; transport 
in a fresh bath of red salt of 6| pounds, abandon 
to itself 5 hours, then wring out and the operation 
is achieved. 

The red salt must have boiled with a little 
gelatine and yellow wood, and the bath left alone 
about 4 days before using it. 

8. Dark Eed. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate like the above (No. 7), but add in the last 
bath 2 ounces of potash, and leave in this bath 
for 2 hours. 

9. Eed Cherry. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate like above (No. 7), but to the last bath 
add 33 ounces Logwood. 



142 COTTOX AXD WOOL DYEING. 

10. Bed Brown. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye in light brown like below (No. 32), then pass 
three times to the catechu and to the violet mor- 
dant, and achieve while cold with 66 ounces red 
wood. You can, also, after having mordanted 
with alum, dye while hot with red wood, but the 
alum process furnishes finer products. 

11. Peach-tree Floicer. 
Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 

Handle five times in a mordant composed of — 

4 ounces Alum, 

4 ■ Salt of Tin. 
Then dip in a few hours ; when out of this bath, 
wring out strongly, and introduce in a new bath 
of 8J ounces of Logwood with a little Verdigris, 
wash in cold water and work in for a few hours. ; 

12. Gray Light Lilac. 
Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 

Dye in a cold bath composed of — 
33 ounces of Logwood, 
8J " " Carmine of Indigo, 
8J " " Alum. 

13. Gray 2Iiddling Lilac. 
Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye in a cold bath composed of — 
49 ounces Logwood, 
8 J " Carmine of Indigo, 
12} a Alum. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 143 

14. Dark Gray-Lilac. 
Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye in a cold bath composed of — 
66 ounces Logwood, 
4 " Carmine of Indigo, 
16J " Alum. 

15. Very Solid Lilac with Potash. 
Use 20| lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle in a bath of — 

8 J ounces of Bichromate of Potash, 

2 cups of sulphuric acid, 

for half an hour ; wring out strongly, and introduce 
in a bath of 8 J ounces of salt of tin; work it in a 
few hours ; press strongly and pass in a cold bath 
of— 

66 ounces of Logwood, 

A pot' of Sulphuric Acid. 
Work actively. 

16. Blue- Violet. 
Use 20 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Dry carefully after the boiling ; then dissolve in 
6 gallons of water — 

6 1 lbs. of Alum, 
4 ounces of Soda, 

3 J lbs. of Sugar of Lead. 

The thread is mordanted twice in the clear solu- 
tion, and dry as many times ; afterwards digest 
for several days 4J pounds of alum in 5 pints of 
alcohol ; then decant. 



114: COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

The thread is then struck while cold with strong 
sticks, and passed in the cold bath of alum; wash 
well with warm water. 

17. Lilac with Logvjood. 
Use 20 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in a bath of gall 16 J ounces; continue in 6 
cups of lilac mordant ; terminate while cold in a 
dyeing bath made with — 
4J lbs. of Logwood, 
16J ounces Brazil Wood. 
Work it in for three or four hours. 

18. Violet. 

Use 20| lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in a bath of 66 ounces of Sumach, then in 6J 
pounds of Logwood ; continue in 6 cups of violet 
mordant ; pass again to the bath of Logwood, in 
which you work it for three or four hours. 

19. Darh Violet. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle in a bath of 6J pounds of sumach, then in 
8 J pounds of Logwood, and from there in 5 cups 
of violet mordant. Carry again in the bath of 
Logwood, and work it in for three or four hours. 

20. Brown Violet. 

Use 20 J pounds of cotton. 

Operate exactly as No. 19, only you take 9 J 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 145 

pounds of logwood, and to darken in the same 
bath two ounces of bichromate. 

21. Light Blue with Potash. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Take— 

41 ounces mordant of Iron, 

3 " Salt of Tin, 

13 J " Prussiate of Potash, 

1 cup of Hydrochloric acid. 

Pass the thread twice. After the last pass raise 
up, give a cup of oil in which you have dissolved 
half an ounce of Marseilles soap. 

22. ^Middling Blue with Potash. 
'Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Make a bath of 49 ounces mordant of iron with 
four ounces salt of tin, then 16J ounces prussiate 
of potash with 1 J- cup of hydrochloric acid. Give 
three passes to the thread. To the last pass by 
potash, raise and give a cup of oil, in which you 
dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of Marseilles 
soap. 

23. Dark Blue with Potash. 
Use 20^ pounds of Cotton. 
Prepare the following bath : — 
4J lbs. Iron Mordant, 

4 ounces Salt of Tin, 

25 " Prussiate of Potash, 

2 cups Hydrochloric Acid. 

13 



146 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

Give three passes to the thread, to the last by 
the potash, raise and give 1J cup of oil in which 
you dissolve one ounce of Marseilles' soap. 

24. Darkened Blue. 

Use 20^ pounds of Cotton. 

Give a weak bottom of blue, brighten, wash 
carefully, and digest all night in six ounces salt of 
tin; wring well; then dip in a cold bath of 33 
ounces of Logwood and half an ounce of alum ; 
wash it in well for two hours ; then add to the 
bath two ounces sulphate of copper, and work the 
cotton in for two hours; add again two ounces of 
bichromate and manipulate two hours ; wash and 
express. This blue is as solid as the vat blue. 

25. Bark Cupreous Blue. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 

Dye in good light blue, and treat in the bath 
like the above (24), but the mordant is composed 
of 10J ounces salt of tin, and to give the soot 
shade, use 8J pounds of Logwood. Solid as blue 
vat. 

26. Cupreous Blue. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton, 

Dye in light blue, raise, express; then dip in a 
very warm bath of 8J pounds of Logwood, from 
there in 33 ounces sulphate of iron, afterwards in 
four ounces bichromate, and at last handle again 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 147 

in the Logwood. The bath being exhausted, add 
to it 12 1 ounces alum, work in for few minutes, 
then wash ; this color is half solid. 

27. Blue Black. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye light blue and pass twice in — 

6 J lbs. of Sumach, 

49 ounces Sulphate of Iron. 
And finish to dye with 4 lbs. of Logwood or in- 
troduce in 33 ounces of extract of Logwood, then 
work it sometimes in — 

6 ounces Bichromate of Potash, 

4 ounces of Blue Yitriol. 
"Wring out strongly, and introduce anew in the 
Logwood ; when the bath is exhausted, add to it 
again from 3 to 4 ounces of blue vitriol, and pass 
it sometimes. 

28. Ordinary Black, 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Dip in a warm bath of 8 J lbs. of Logwood, then in 
49 ounces sulphate of iron, from there in the mor- 
dant of clear lime; handle again in Logwood ; then 
anew in the iron and the mordant, and at last boil 
in the Logwood, to which you add a little oil, or 
you pass in a warm bath of — 



148 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

6 J lbs. of Logwood, 
33 ounces Suinaeb, 
16} ounces Quercitron, then in 
49 ounces Sulphate of Iron, then add 
4 ounces of Bichromate. 
Handle again in the Logwood with a little oil. 

29. Solid Black. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Introduce all night in an exhausted catechu vat; 
or in a decoction of 33 ounces Catechu, then pass 
in 16} ounces nitrate of iron, afterwards in 4 
ounces of potash, wring out carefully ; then dye in 
a warm bath of — 

6J lbs. of Logwood, 

33 ounces Sumach, 

16} ounces of Catechu. 
And at last you add a little oil, or : pass for half 
an hour in 10J lbs. of Logwood, then manipulate 
in — 

4 ounces of Blue Vitriol, 

6 ounces of Bichromate. 
"Wring out strongly and carry again in the Log- 
wood; from there work long enough in a clear 
solution of — ■ 

4 ounces of Sulphate of Iron, 

3 ounces Sugar of Lead. 
Brighten, then introduce a Second time in Log- 
wood till exhausted. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 149 

30. Solid Charcoal Black. 
Use 20 J pounds of Cotton. 
Leave all night in a bath of 8 \ pounds of sumach 
then in 4J pounds of sulphate of iron and 2 cups 
nitrate of iron, add some quick lime mordant, 
then pass again in sumach mixed with lime mor- 
dant; and dye in a warm bath of 4 pounds of Log- 
wood and 16J ounces Quercitron. Dry and pass 
quickly in an oil bath with soap. 

31. Meat Color. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Dye in a warm bath composed of a little Catechu, 
Quercitron, alum, and a very small quantity of 
chromate of potash. 

32. Good Dye Buff. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle in a bath of 4 ounces of Blue vitriol for \ 
of an hour, then twice in 4 ounces prussiate of 
potash. 

33. Baric Buff. 

Use 201 lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle in an exhausted bath of Catechu, to which 
you add a little Brazil and alum. 



13* 



150 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

34. Brown Canella. 

Use 20£ lbs. of Cotton. 
Handle twice in the following bath : — 
49 ounces Catechu, 
16J " Quercitron, 
12 J " Bichromate of Potash, 
2 " Sulphate of Copper. 

35. Light Brown. 

Use 20| lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass twice in the following bath: — 
4 pounds Catechu, 
16 J ounces Bichromate of Potash, 
4 " Blue Vitriol. 

36. Light Dark Brown. 

Use 20£ lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in the dye like above (35), but to the Cate- 
chu, add 2 ounces of sulphate of iron, and give 
three passes. 

37. Middling Brown. 

Use 20i lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye like above (35), but to the catechu, add 4 
ounces of sulphate of iron, and give three passes. 

38. Middling Dark Brown. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye like the above (35), only pass three times, 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 151 

■wring out strongly, and achieve in a warm bath 
of 33 ounces Logwood and 4 ounces alum. 

39. Dark Brown. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in the following bath: — 
49 ounces Catechu, 
8J " Bichromate of Potash, 
3 " Sulphate of Copper. 
Wring strongly, dip for half an hour in 8J ounces 
salt of tin, wring out equally, and pass in a cold 
bath of 49 ounces of Logwood, after half an 
hour darken with 3 ounces bichromate of potash 
in the same bath. 

40. Brown Blue. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in the following bath: — 

6J pounds of Sumach, 

49 ounces Sulphate of Iron. 
Wring out strongly, and dye in a warm bath 
with 4J- pounds of Logwood ; when the bath is 
exhausted add to it 8J ounces of alum and 10J 
pounds of soda ; give 5 passes. 

41. Solid Mineral Green, 
Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass five times in — 

10J lbs. of Sulphate of Copper, 
10J lbs. of Soda. 



152 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

42. Green Tea Gohr. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a very light blue to the vat ; wash and dye 
in a tepid bath with 8 ounces alum and 16} ounces 
Quercitron and a little Carmine of indigo. 

43. Canary Green. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Leave all night in 4} pounds of Sumach ; mor- 
dant with — 

49 ounces Alum, 
12} " - Potash. 
Leave in for 6 hours ; dye yellow with a warm 
bath of 5 pounds of Quercitron and 16} ounces 
of gelatine ; wash and dye with carmine of indigo 
according to the specimen. 

44. Green with Woad. 
Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Leave all night in 10J pounds of sumach ; mor- 
dant with the clear solution of 

4 pounds of Alum, 

8 J " " Sugar of Lead, 

8J * " Potash. 
Leave in for one hour, raise, leave alone all day, 
and put in again all night; then next day wash 
and give a yellow bottom in two baths with 20} 
pounds of Woad and 33 ounces of potash. Then 
dye with indigo according to the specimen. At 
last you pass the thread in a weak bath of alum 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 153 

with a little Indigo, and you wring out well to 
render it uniform. 

45. May Green. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Leave all night in 6J pounds of sumach, then 
mordant with — 

4 pounds Alum, 
16 J ounces Potash. 
Shake one hour and leave all night; wash and 
give a yellow bottom with 6J pounds Quercitron 
and 16 J ounces of gelatine; wash and dye with 
indigo and alum according to the specimen. 

. 46. Light Green. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a weak bottom of blue ; wring out strongly, 
then work carefully in the clear part of the follow- 
ing mordant — 

41 ounces of Alum, 

8% " » Pyrolignite of Lead, 

4 " " Sugar of Lead. 
Leave the cotton in this bath all night, and give 
a very warm bath of yellow with 5J pounds of 
Quercitron and 4 ounces of alum. Give 4 to 5 
passes according to the specimen. This color is 
solid. 

47. Middling Green. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate like the above (46), but give a darker 



154 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

blue, and for the yellow bath must use 6j lbs. of. 
Quercitron. 

48. Middling Dark Green. 

Use 20 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Make a light blue, and manipulate like the above 
(46), but for the yellow bath use 7J lbs. of Quer- 
citron. 

49. Dark Green. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a middling blue, and operate afterwards 
as above (45). To dye yellow, use — 

7 J lbs. Quercitron, 

16 J ounces Logwood. 

50. Green Black, 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a dark blue bottom ; operate as in 45, but 
use only 3 J lbs. of Alum. Dye yellow with — 

7£ lbs. Quercitron, 

49 ounces Logwood, 
without indigo. 

51. Straw Yellow. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in a warm bath of — 

33 ounces of Yellow Wood, 

1 cup of Sulphuric Acid. 
Work it in for one hour. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 155 

52. Nankin. 
Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye in a bath of 33 ounces of sulphate of iron, 
then afterwards in one of 4 lbs. of lime in two 
passes, and introduce into a weak bath of sulphuric 
acid. 

53. Light Rust. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass twice in — 

4 lbs. of Sulphate of Iron, 

3 J lbs. of Calcined Soda. 

54. Middling Rust. 
Use 20J lbs.,of Cotton. 
Give three passes in — 

4| lbs. of Sulphate of Iron, 

4 lbs. of Calcined Soda. 

55. Dark Rust. 
Use2(H lbs. of Cotton. 

Pass four times in — 

8J- lbs. of Sulphate of Iron. 
6J lbs. of Calcined Soda. 

56. Elk Gray. 

Use 20 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass once in the following — 
3 J lbs. of Catechu, 
8 \ ounces Sulphate of Iron. 
3 ounces Sulphate of Copper, 
2 ounces of Potash. 



156 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

57. Dark Grizelin. 

Use 20 £ ounces of Cotton. 
Work the Cotton for two hours in the following 
bath:— 

16 \ ounces of Catechu, 

16J ounces of Quercitron, 

4 ounces of Alum. 
Then pass in — 

4 ounces Sulphate of Iron. 

58. Light Grizelin. 

Use 20§ lbs. of Cotton. 
Work it for half an hour in the following bath: — 

8J ounces Catechu, 

\ ounce Sulphate of Copper, 

4 lbs. Sulphate of Iron. 
Then pass in 

8 J ounces of Quercitron, 

4 ounces of Alum, 

1 ounce Bichromate of Potash. 
The two above baths must be warm. 

59. Natural Dark. 

Use 20| lbs. of Cotton. 
Dye in a warm bath composed of — 

8J ounces of Catechu, 

8£ ounces of Quercitron, 

4 ounces of Alum, 

\ of an ounce Blue Vitriol. 
Darken with two drachms of sulphate of iron. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 157 

60. Natural Light. 

Use 20J ]bs. of Cotton. 
Dye in a warm bath with — 
4 ounces of Annotto, 
A little Sulphuric Acid. 

61. Light Rose with Carmine. 

Use 20£ lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass the white thread in a cold bath of 6 cups of 
extract of saffron; give 5 passes; add 2 cups of 
sulphuric acid ; leave the thread for two or three 
hours; wring out, and terminate by a cold bath of 
4 ounces tartaric acid, and press strongly. 

62. Bright Rose. 

Use20Jlbs. of Cotton. 
Operate like above (61), but use 10 cups of ex- 
tract of saffron, and to brighten, 6 ounces of tar- 
taric acid. 

63. Rose with Wood. 

Use 20J lbs - of Cotton. 
In a bucket full of water pour 1 gallon of the 
composition called Physic (4), and dip in it the 
bleached thread and work it in for several hours ; 
then pass in a bucketful of water, and wring out 
carefully. « 

14 



158 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

64. Good Dye Crimson. English Method. 

Use 20 | lbs. of Cotton. 
Acid Bath. 
Take— 

33 ounces of Nitric Acid, 

16J ounces Hydrochloric Acid. 
And dissolve in it — 

8J ounces Tin, 

1 ounce of Kitchen Salt. 
The dissolution is done little by little, in 10 or 
12 hours, and you leave to itself for 12 hours. 
Mordant. 

Dissolve first 3J lbs. alum without iron, then 
add 4 ounces nitrate of potash ; and at last 16 J 
ounces chloride of tin, dilute the all with 26 gal- 
lons of water. Pass the thread in for a quarter 
of an hour, leave it all night and wash well. 
Dip the thread for J an hour in a decoction of 
4 J lbs. of Fernambucco wood ; wring out and intro- 
duce in the physic bath composed of 4J lbs. of 
Fernambucco and the acid bath indicated above. 
•Leave the thread in this bath for all night; in 
turning it from time to time, leave it for 6 or 8 
hours and wash it. 

65. Light Brown. 

Use 20| pounds of Cotton. 
Dye the thread light brown according to receipt 
35, after the second passage to Catechu, introduce 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 159 

it in the violet mordant, and pass 4 to 6 hours in 
4J lbs. of Logwood. 

66. Dark Brown Violet. 

Use 20| pounds of Cotton. 
Dye violet according to formula 19, and the thread 
having been 3 or 4 hours in the Logwood bath, 
add 4 ounces chromate of potash, and leave again 
for two hours. 

67. Brown Blach Violet. 

Use 20 J pounds of Cotton. 
Dye violet according to receipt 19, and after the 
thread has been two or three hours in the Logwood 
bath, add 4 ounces of bichromate of potash ; pass 
again for two hours, add anew 4 ounces sulphate 
of iron, work it in again for some time, and wash 
well. 

68. Iron Dark Brown. 

Use 20 J pounds of Cotton. 
Dye brown by three passes, according to receipt 
35 ; to the Catechu add 5 ounces sulphate of 
iron ; when out of the bichromate of potash wring 
out; then dye in a warm bath of 3 lbs. Log- 
wood, to which is added 1 ounce alum. 

69. Brown Blach with Catechu. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Dye the same as in 68, but to achieve and give 



160 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

the last dye use 5J lbs. of Logwood, darken with 
4 ounces chromate of potash ; give two passes. 

70. Olive Brown Black. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Dye brown by three passes according to receipt 
35, and to the Catechu add 6 ounces sulphate of 
iron; wring out strongly after the last pass to the 
chromate, and you terminate the dyeing in a hot 
bath formed of 

6J pounds of Logwood, 

3J- " " Quercitron, 

16i ounces of Alum. 
If the thread is not dark enough, darken with a 
little sulphate of iron. 

71. Light Gray Rose. 

Use 20^ pounds of Cotton. 
Pass in a solution of 4 ounces of soda, then in 8 \ 
ounces sulphate of iron ; a second time in soda, 
and at last in a bath of 4 ounces of Logwood. 

72. Middling Gray Rose. 

Use 20 J pounds of Cotton. 
Operate like above (71), but instead of Logwood, 
use 16J ounces of Sumach. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 1G1 

73. Dark Gray Rose. 

Use 20.\ pounds of Cotton. 
Dye as above (71), but instead of Logwood take 
83 ounces of Sumach, a little Brazil wood and 
alum. 

74. Dark Gray Green. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Dip in a warm bath of 41J ounces of Logwood, 
and some time after, add 6 ounces blue vitriol ; 
pass 5 times; raise, express and add 16J ounces 
of Quercitron and 4 ounces alum; leave it in for 
two hours. 

75. Middling Gray Green. 

Use 20i pounds of Cotton. 
Operate like the above (74), but use only 25 
ounces Logwood and 4 ounces sulphate of copper. 

76. Light Gray Green. 
Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Impregnate the cotton with 8 J ounces of Logwood 
and 4 ounces sulphate of iron; then terminate to 
dye in a warm bath composed of 8J lbs. Quer- 
citron and 4 ounces alum with a little Carmine 
of indigo. 

77. Light Olive. 
Use 20 J pounds of Cotton. 
Leave all night in a tepid mordant composed of 
3J pounds Alum, 
8J ounces Nitrate of Potash, 
8J " Blue Vitriol. 



14 



* 



162 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

Wash carefully and work for half an hour in a 
warm bath of 5J lbs. Quercitron and 33 ounces 
Logwood, leave few hours in the bath. 

78. Dark Olive. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Operate as above (77), but with 7 J lbs. Quercitron, 
4 lbs. Logwood, and 16 J ounces Catechu. 

79. False Green. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Pass the thread five times in a boiling bath of 4 
lbs. of Logwood ; raise and add to the bath 4 
ounces of blue vitriol, work it in for a quarter of 
an hour ; wring out and add b\ lbs. Quercitron 
and 2 ounces of blue vitriol, work it in the thread, 
raise it and add to the bath 8 \ ounces of gall, and 
work the cotton in for one hour ; pass in water 
and the operation is achieved. 

80. Green Black. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Treat as above (79) but use — 

8 1 pounds Logwood, 

8J ounces Blue Vitriol. 
Sometimes they add — 

4 ounces Blue Yitriol, 

6 J pounds of Quercitron. 
Darken with a little sulphate of iron. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 163 

81. Steel Green. 

Use 20} pounds of Cotton. 
The thread is dyed first with prussiate of potash, 
according to the receipt 22, but you raise on the 
iron, and pass in a warm bath composed of — 

7J pounds Quercitron, 

16} ounces Alum, 

6 " Pyrolignite of Lead, 

3 " Salt of Tin. 

Work in it for half an hour. 

82. Chrome Green. 

Use 20 pounds of Cotton. 
Brighten after giving a blue bottom, wash well ; 
mordant with — 

3 parts of water, 

2 " " orange mordant. 
Leave few hours; wash carefully in 16} ounces of 
thick lime, and pass five times in — 

8J ounces Chromate of Potash, 

25 " of Alum. 
"Wash well and dip in a little carmine of indigo; 
or before giving the blue bottom, introduce the 
cotton for few hours in 25 ounces sugar of lead, 
then give the blue bottom ; pass quickly, wash ; 
then pass in a clear mordant of lime, wash 
slightly and achieve in — 

8J ounces Potash, 

1 gallon Vinegar. 



164 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

83. New Solid Green. 

Use 20 J pounds of Cotton. 
Give a light blue bottom, brighten, wash, and 
work one hour in 25 ounces sugar of lead ; then 
pass in lime mordant, wash slightly, introduce in 
4 ounces bichromate of potash, and pass five 
times. 

84. Solid Yellow Green. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Mordant with — 

33 ounces Sugar of Lead, 

4 " Nitrate of Copper. 
"Wash and dye in 22 A ounces chromate of potash. 

85. Cupreous Yellow. 

Use 20 J pounds of Cotton. 
Mordant with 8 J ounces salt of tin, then dye with 
7J pounds Quercitron, and 8J ounces salt of tin, 
and the bath used before, leave to boil half an hour. 

86. Apple Green. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Work it in a warm bath of — 
4 lbs. Quercitron, 
25 ounces Alum, 
8 J ounces Carmine of Indigo, 
16J ounces Sumach. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 165 

87. Gray Chocolate, 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 

Pass for quarter of an hour in 8J ounces sul- 
phate of copper, then give two or three passes in 
8 J ounces prussiate of potash, and to the last pass, 
put a little sulphuric acid in the potash. 

88. Dark Gray Chocolate. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Work one hour in a bath of — 

6 ounces yellow Catechu, 

4 ounces Sulphate of Iron. 
Then handle in a very warm bath of 3J ounces 
potash, and at- last in 4 ounces Brazil wood with 
alum. 

89. Brown. 

Use 20 lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in — 

33 ounces Catechu, 
2 ounces Blue Vitriol. 
12J ounces Alum, 
33 ounces Quercitron. 
Then handle in 4 ounces bichromate of potash ; 
dip again in Catechu, raise and add 4 ounces sul- 
phate of iron. 



166 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

90. Light Brown Canella. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass in — 

33 ounces Catechu, 
2 ouoces Blue Vitriol, 
8 J ounces Alum, 
16| Quercitron. 
Then pass in 6 ounces of chroraate of potash, 
dip again in the Catechu and darken with 4 
ounces sulphate of iron. 

91. Silver Gray. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Pass for a certain length of time in 8| ounces of 
galls, shake and add 8J ounces sulphate of iron ; 
work it carefully, then wring out and pass in a 
weak bath of sulphuric acid. 

92. Light Gray. 

Use 20 J lbs. of Cotton. 

1st bath. Take 16J ounces of Gall. 

2d bath. Take 8 J ounces Sulphate of Iron. 

Manipulate 15 minutes in each bath. 

93. Light Gray Blue. 

Use 20i lbs. of Cotton. 

Give a very light blue bottom ; brighten, wash 
carefully and pass in — 

16J lbs. Logwood, 

4 ounces Sulphate of Iron. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 167 

94. Middling Gray Blue. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. , 
Operate as above (93), only the blue bottom is a 
little darker; finish with — 
33 ounces Logwood, 
8J ounces Sulphate of Iron. 

95. Bark Gray Blue. 

Use 20 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a light blue bottom; brighten; wash care- 
fully ; manipulate for one hour in 3 -J pounds of 
Logwood, and pass in \1\ ounces sulphate of iron. 

96. Lilac Blue. 

Use 20£ lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a light blue bottom ; dip in the lilac mor- 
dant, and dye with 4 pounds Logwood. 

97. Gray Elk. 

Use 20J lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a gray bottom in two passes with — 

3 lbs. Sumach, 

16J ounces Sulphate of Iron. 
Then terminate the operation in a warm bath 
composed of — 

6 ounces Alum, 

J- " Chromate of Potash, 

8J " Quercitron, 
. 8J " Catechu, 
with a little "Brazil Wood. 



168 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. , 

98. Brown Iron. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Operate as in 35, in two passes ; then handle once 
more in Catechu bath, in which you darken with 
2 cups of sulphuric acid. 

99. Brown Hair. 

Use 20} lbs. of Cotton. 
Work one hour in 

33 ounces Catechu, 

3} " Blue Vitriol, 

33 " Sulphate of Iron mixed with 
weak Lime. 
Dip again in Catechu, then work it in a quarter of 
an hour in 8J ounces chromate of potash, shake, 
add 16| ounces of Logwood to the potash, work it 
in one hour, and pass in water. 

100. New Olive. 

Use 201 lbs. of Cotton. 
Give a light blue bottom ; brighten and dye 
brown with — 

4 J lbs. of Catechu, 
4J " Quercitron, 
25 ounces Alum, 
16} " Chromate of Potash, 
4 - " Blue Yitriol. 
Give two passes. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 169 

101. Red with Mordant 

Use 20 J lbs. of Cotton. 
Prepare the following mordant : — 

33 ounces Nitric Acid, 

49 " Salt of Tin, 

3 \ " Hydrochloric Acid. 
The thread which has received a bottom of 
Sumach is passed in this mordant, then wrung 
out strongly ; then pass slightly in a Eedwood vat, 
then turned in a bath of Eedwood and Fustic, or 
in a bath of Redwood. t 

102. Lilac Fashion. 

Use 20J lbs, of Cotton. 
Shake together — . 

4 ounces Logwood, 
4 ounces Alum. 
Leave to rest, and pass the thread several times in 
this bath ; or to a bath of Catechu add a little less 
Logwood, and as much alum. 

103. Black of Extract. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. 
Dip the thread for three hours in an extract of 
Logwood, let to cool, then pass eight or ten times 
in a bath of 12J ounces bichromate potash, and 
four ounces blue vitriol; achieve the dye in an old 
bath of extract. t 

15 



170 -COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

104. White. 

Use 20J pounds of Cotton. • 

Boil in four pounds of soda ; wash carefully, then 
brighten two or three times in 6£ to 7J pounds 
chloride of lime dissolved in boiling water, and at 
last you blueish in passing in the acid. 



BLEACHING OF TISSUES OF COTTON. 171 



Second Section.— DYEING ON TISSUES, MUL- 
HAUSEN'S LUSTRINGS. 

ARTICLE I. 

Bleaching of Tissues of Cotton. 

For a white part of impression of 100 pieces. 

1. Dip in water and pack it with 41 J pounds 

of Lime. 

2. Boil for 17 hours. 

3. Pass to the hammer, washing. 

4. Pack with 41i pounds of Lime. 

5. Boil for 17 hours. 

6. Pass to the hammer, washing. 

7. Pass to the Acid at 1 J°. 

8. Washing. 

9. Pack with 46J pounds of Carbonate of 

Soda. 

10. Boil for 17 hours. 

11. Pass to the hammer, washing. 

12. Pass to the Chloride of Lime. 

13. Pass to the Acid at 1J°. 

14. Washing. 

For half white the operations are the same ; 
only it is of no use to pass to the Chloride. 



172 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

For a merchantable white part of 100 pieces. 

1. Pass to the hammer. 

2. Pack with a lye at 2°, and old lye of Car- 

bonate of Soda. If you have not this lye> 
use 51 J pounds of Carbonate of Soda. 

3. Boil 17 hours. 

4. Pass to the hammer. 

5. Pass to the chloride (the two passages to 

the chloride require 41 J pounds of chlo- 
ride of lime). 

6. Pass to the acid. 

7. Washing. 

8. Pack with 46J pounds of carbonate of 

soda. 

9. Boil 17 hours. 

10. Pass to the hammer. 

11. Pass to the chloride. 

12. Pass to the acid. 

13. Washing with blue. 

To scour pieces which must- receive the dark 
shades, use an old lye, and let to boil two hours 
in a kettle — 17 hours when it is a part of 100 
packed pieces. 



MORDANTS. 173 

ARTICLE II. 

MORDANTS. 

1. Acetate of Alumina. 
Take— 

8 1 lbs. of Alum. 
6J " Sugar of Lead. 
Dissolve each one separately in two gallons of 
boiling water ; mix together and leave to settle. 
The white sugar of lead is the best. 

2. Yellow Mordant. 

Take and boil together — 

6 J lbs. of Sugar of Lead, 
51} " Litharge. 

3. Copperas. 
Boil together — 

10J lbs. Green Copperas, 

10J u Pyrolignite of Lead, 
with water ; stir all time of the ebullition. 

4. Acetate of Iron for Buff Ground. 
Take— 

33 ounces of Sulphate of Iron, 

16i u a Sugar of Lead. 
Dissolve them in 4} quarts of boiling water. 
15* 



174 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

The acetate of iron thus obtained marks 14°. 
It can be reduced by addition of water. Always 
filter the mordant before using it. We have 
always used a mordant marking 4° for buff 
ground. If you pass in weak chlorine the shade 
is finer. 

5. Violet Mordant. 

Dissolve salt of tin in hydrochloric acid. 





6. 


Woad Green Mordant. 


For 206 lbs. 
49 i lbs. 
6J ' 
12i • 


of Cotton use — 

of Alum, 
1 Potash, 
1 Sugar of Lead. 



7. Nitrate of Iron. 
Take— 

10 J lbs. of Nitric Acid, 
10J a Hydrochloric Acid. 
Put the whole in a stone jug, dilute little by little 
72J lbs. of copperas in some water, and pour it in 
the jug. Do not put too much at a time, because 
the mixture can break the jug by the elevation 
of temperature. 



RECEIPTS TO. DYE. 175 

ARTICLE III. 

Receipts to Dye. 

1. Black 
Operation 1st. 

Take— 

50 pints of water, 

10 pounds extract Chestnut- tree Bark. 

Sumach, Gall, Oak could take the place of the 
above according to the quantity of coloring matter. 

Operation 2d. 

Take 100 pints of water, and 10 of pyrolignite 
of iron. 

Wash. 

Sometimes the black vat is used ; it is an acetate 
of iron obtained in treating iron scraps by vinegar. 

Operation 3d. 

Pass in lime water, wash ; pass to the Logwood 
5J pounds for 20^ pounds of cotton. 

Lime water unites to the excess of mordant, 
forming sulphate of lime taken out by the washing. 
The iron free from its acid, oxidizes, and the black 
color of the cotton passes to the brown. Without 
this operation the Logwood is precipitated by the 
excess of mordant, and will not fix to the cotton. 



176 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

2. Black. 

Handkerchiefs f . 

Pass in boiling Urine. 

Pass in 16£ ounces of Gall. 

Pass in an iron mordant at 40°, wash well. 

Handle in a warm bath of 33 ounces of Quer- 
citron and 74 ounces of Logwood ; then make a 
fresh bath with three large buckets of water, or 
18 gallons of water, 16 J ounces Quercitron, 12 J 
ounces Logwood; give few turns to the piece; 
raise it up ; add to the bath 4 ounces black soap ; 
give few turns, and wash well. This method is 
not very good. 

3. Bronze. 
Pieces. 

For one piece weighing 25} pounds, make a 
bath with — 

16J lbs. Yellow Wood, 

25 ounces Logwood, 

16J " Catechu, 

4 " Blue "Vitriol. 
Pass the piece in this bath ; afterwards pass it 
in another bath made with 6 ounces of bichromate 
of potash. Eepeat these operations three times, 
then terminate in the last bath of chromate with' 
soda, and wash. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 177 

4. Chestnut. 
Use 41 1 pounds of Cotton Thread No. 10. Boil 
in water till dissolution. 

4J- lbs. Catechu, 

25 ounces Blue Yitriol, 

8J " Alum. 
Handle in, the cotton for half an hour, and wring 
it up. Prepare a bath of chromate for half of the 
cotton with 4 ounces of bichromate ; handle the 
cotton in for a quarter of an hour, wring it up ; add 
to the bath 4 ounces bichromate for the other 
half of the cotton ; handle again in the first bath 
and wring it up. Prepare another bath with 25 
ounces of oxi : muriate of tin, and handle in for 
a quarter of an hour ; wash well. Prepare another 
warm bath with — 

4 lbs. Logwood, 

49 ounces Redwood, 

8j " Quercitron. 
Handle the cotton in till the bath is exhausted, 
and darken with blue vitriol. If the cotton was 
becoming too dark, add to the bath a little alum. 
Operate the same way with the other half. 

5. Dark Olive. 

Pieces. 
Handle in the extract of chestnut tree bark ; 
handle in the warm pyrolignite of iron ; wash ; 
handle in lime water ; wash ; handle in a bath 



178 COTTON AND WOOL DYEIXG. 

of blue vitriol, wring it up, and handle again in 
the old bath of Logwood, till the bath is exhausted ; 
wring it up. 

6. Dark Corinthe. 
Pieces. 
Handle in Turmeric; handle in a light alum bath ; 
handle in Turmeric ; handle in Logwood ; handle 
in the physic or mixture of salt of tin and hydro- 
chloric acid ; handle in Logwood and wring it up. 

7. Green. 

9 pieces, 26 J to 93 yards. 
Handle in 10J lbs. Sumach, then in a mordant 
prepared with — 

10i lbs. Alum, 

49 ounces of Soda. 
And without washing when out of the mordant, 
handle in a bath of 72 J lbs. of Quercitron ; put 
again 8 J ounces of alum in the mordant and 8J 
ounces of soda and handle again the pieces. 
Handle them afterwards in a bath prepared with — 

72J lbs. of TVoad, 

27J lbs. of Quercitron. 

Wash and achieve with Indigo. 

8. Gray. 

Handle in a bath prepared with 2 gallons of 
Logwood and 3 pints to continue ; handle in a bath 
of acetate of iron prepared with — 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 179 

10J lbs. Sulphate of Iron, 
5J- lbs. Pyrolignite of Lead. 
The all dissolve in 25 gallons of water ; add 
1 quart of this solution for 2 pieces of 95 yards. 

9. Dead Leaves. 

1 piece of 70 yards. 
Handle the piece in the following bath : — 
12 J ounces Catechu, 
4 ounces Quercitron, 
1 spoonful Eed Wood, 
1 spoonful Logwood. 
Terminate the piece with one drachm of bi- 
chromate. 

The catechu'must have boiled with blue vitriol 
16. | lbs. of blue vitriol for 25 lbs. of catechu. 

10. Brown. 

Handle in Annotto ; wash ; handle in blue vitriol ; 
wash ; handle in Logwood ; in adding alum to it 
after giving few turns to the piece. 

11. Brown. 

1 piece Jaconas of 74 yards. 
Prepare a bath with — 

8 \ ounces of Turmeric, 

4 ounces of Annotto. 
Handle the pieces in; then handle in the physic; 
wash ; prepare another bath with — 



180 COTTON AJSTD WOOL DYEIXG. 

2 little tubs of Red Wood, 

5 little tubs of Logwood. 
Handle in the copperas, then in lime water ; and 
wash. 

Prepare a gray ground with — 

33 ounces of extract of Chestnut Bark, 

J of a spoonful of Pyrolignite of Iron. 
Handle in lime water, then in Fustic, afterwards 
in alum mordant, which give a light olive. When 
you have handled in the copperas you have a 
dark olive. 

12. Gray. 
Pieces. 
Handle in an extract of Chestnut tree bark and 
Logwood, then in a bath of sugar of lead with a 
little acetate of iron, and terminate in a bath of 
nitrate of iron. 

13. Brown. 
Piece. 
Prepare a bath with — 

4 lbs. Catechu, 

4 lbs. Blue Vitriol, 

33 ounces Red Wood. 
Handle the piece in this bath, then in another 
made with — 

10i lbs. of Copperas, 

33 ounces of bichromate. 
Handle again the piece in the first bath, in adding 
to it \\ bucket of Logwood; after that in the 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. * 181 

chromate in adding to it 16 \ ounces with a little 
lye. These proportions are for 9 pieces of Jaconas 
of 70 yards. You can obtain, in the same way, 
the shades similar to chestnut, only you do not 
want to add Logwood. 

14. Vinegar. 

1 piece Jaconas. 
Prepare a bath with 8J ounces of Turmeric, 1 
bucket of Sumach, and handle the piece in ; the 
bath must be warm enough to keep the hand in ; 
then handle in copperas ; wash ; handle in physic 
and achieve with 5 buckets of Logwood. 

15. Brown. 

1 piece of Jaconas of 74 yards. 
Handle the piece in a bath prepared with 21 
ounces Turmeric and 8 J ounces of Annotto; wash. 

Handle in a mordant prepared with 3 ounces 
alum ; after that handle in an old exhausted bath 
of which you always kept in reserve when you 
have many pieces to prepare. If you have none, 
you give few turns to the piece in the river, 
wring it up and terminate it in a bath made with 
16 }j ounces Eed wood or 2 or 3 buckets and 25 
ounces of Logwood. This brown is cheap. 



16 



182 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

16. Brown. 
1 piece Jaconas. 
Prepare a bath with — 

16^ ounces of Turmeric, 
2 " " Sumach, 

in which you handle the piece; handle it in alum; 
wash slightly and handle it to finish it in a bath 
prepared with two little buckets of Eedwood and 
two of Logwood. 

17. Corynihe. 
1 piece Jaconas. 

Begin by handling the piece in a bath of 25 
ounces of Turmeric; handle in physic, and ter- 
minate in the following bath : — 

33 ounces Eed Wood, 

12| " Logwood. 

18. Vinegar. 

1 piece Jaconas. 

Begin with 25 ounces Turmeric, handle in glass 
of physic, and achieve with 49 ounces Logwood. 

19. American. 

2 pieces of 70 yards. 
Begin with — 

2 hand buckets of Quercitron, 
2 quarts of Sumach ; 
continue for the second with — 

1 hand bucket of Quercitron, 
J spoonful of Sumach. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 183 

Handle the pieces in the copperas ; wash. Handle 
in lime water; wash; terminate the 2 pieces to- 
gether with — 

1 gallon of Quercitron, 

J pint of Annotto. 
If you wish to have the pieces a darker shade, 
add in the first bath — 

8 spoonfuls of Sumach, 

1 " " Quercitron, 

and to continue add — 

3 or 4 spoonfuls of Sumach, 
1 of Quercitron ; 

then handle as above in copperas and lime water ; 
terminate with half a bucket of Quercitron for 
both pieces. 

20. Polish Red. 
5 pieces j or 340 yards. 
1st bath — 

10J lbs. Catechu, 

4 " Alum. 
26? bath— 

16J ounces Chromate of Potash. 
3d bath— 

33 ounces Salsoda. 
4:th bath — 

Physic. 
5th bath — 

4 large buckets Redwood for each piece. 



184 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

21. Gray. 
Pieces. 
Begin to handle the piece in a bath prepared 
with — 

2 J gallons Sumach, 
7 quarts Quercitron. 
If you have much to make, continue to add to the 
2d passage — 

6 quarts Sumach, 
6 " Quercitron. 
2>d passage — 

4 quarts Sumach, 
6 " Quercitron. 
4:th passage — 

4 quarts Sumach, 
6 " Quercitron. 
bth passage — 

3 quarts Sumach, 
6 " Quercitron. 
6th passage — 

3 quarts Sumach, 
6 " Quercitron. 
Afterwards handle in the copperas ; wash ; handle 
in lime water ; and terminate with 3 small buckets 
of Quercitron. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 185 

22. Graij. 

Prepare a bath with — 

2 ounces Tartaric Acid, 
1 quart Sumach, 

10 " Logwood, 
for 2 pieces. If you have several, continue for the 
2d passage — 

1 spoonful Sumach, 

3 " Logwood. 
3d passage — 

J spoonful Sumach, 
2h " Logwood. 
4:th passage — 

1 spoonful Sumach, 
2J u Logwood. 

6th passage — 

^ spoonful Sumach, 

2 " Logwood. 
6th passage — 

J spoonful Sumach, 

1J u Logwood. 
Afterwards handle in a bath of sulphate of iron, 
and give two turns in the river; brighten with 
alum. 

23. Gray. 
pieces. 

Half bleached. Handle the pieces in Sumach, 
then in the copperas ; handle in a cold bath pre- 
pared with — 

16* 



186 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

16^ ounces Nitrate of Iron, 

2 " " Salt of tin ; 
wash ; handle again whilst cold in 

3 quarts sumach, 

3 M Quercitron. 

2-i. Gray. 

2 pieces f calicot of 60 yards. Bleached. 
Take 2 hand buckets of Quercitron and 2 spoons 
of Sumach. For the second piece, continue with 
1 hand bucket of Quercitron and | a spoon of 
Sumach. Handle the two pieces in the copperas, 
with a little nitrate of iron; wash, handle in lime 
water, wash again, and terminate in a bath of 
Quercitron, and about f of a spoon of Annotto 
recently boiled. 

25. Gray. 

2 bleached pieces. 
Take three hand buckets of Quercitron with a little 
Annotto for one piece that you handle in ; prepare 
afterwards a light bath with pyrolignite of iron 
and blue vitriol, and after handling in, wash. 

26. Gray. 

1 piece of unbleached Cotton. 
Prepare a bath of Red-wood and Annotto, then 
another bath with copperas and a little nitrate of 
iron ; wash. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 187 

27. Chestnut. 

4 pieces f at 67 yards. 
Handle the piece in the following bath : — 

49 ounces Annotto, 

25 " Alum, 

49 " Ked-wood. 
Then pass in 5 ounces of bichromate. Handle 
each piece twice in the first bath and twice in the 
second ; in taking out for the second time from 
the bath of chromate, handle them in the physic, 
wring them out and pass each piece in a bath 
prepared with 2 large buckets of Logwood. For 
the 4 pieces you want 12\ pounds of Logwood. 

28. Blue. 

2 pieces § 62 yards unbleached. 
Handle the piece in a bath of 8 J ounces of Log- 
wood ; afterwards in another bath with 4 ounces 
of salt of tin, and anew in the bath of Logwood. 
Mordant with 16 J ounces nitrate of iron, wash ; 
handle in another bath of 2 ounces prussiate 
of potash with the same quantity of sulphuric 
acid, wash and handle in the nitrate of iron, wash 
and handle again in the old bath of prussiate and 
at last wash. 

29. Gray. 

2 pieces of 60 yards. 
Take 2\ ounces of Catechu that you boil with J 



188 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

an ounce of Sumach, handle the piece in; and after- 
wards handle in the bath of copperas. 

30. Orange. 

A piece f of 60 yards. 
Handle the piece in the litharge mordant at 2°, 
wash and handle in a bath of 7 ounces of bichro- 
mate, wring it up, handle it in the mordant, and 
again in the chromate without washing when it 
goes out of the mordant for the second time; wring 
it up when out of the chromate, then add in 
boiling water 12 \ ounces of lime, handle the piece 
in and wash. 

31. Yellow. 

15 pieces f of 50 yards. 
Begin to handle the piece in the mordant which 
is prepared with — 

6\ lbs. sugar of Lead, 

5 lbs. Litharge. 
That you boil in 2 buckets of water; handle the 
piece first in this bath, in which you put some old 
mordant if you have some, and you add a little of 
the fresh, handle the piece in whilst warm, wring it 
up, beat it, wash and handle again for the second 
time in the mordant, then prepare a bath with 3f 
lbs. of bichromate for the 15 pieces that you 
divide, which make 4 ounces for every piece, and 
to terminate add in the chromate 2 ounces sul- 
phuric acid and wash. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 189 

Each piece requires a fresh bath of bichromate. 
The mordant keeps well. 

32. Red. ■ 

25 pieces half bleached f at 60 yards. 
Handle the piece in Annotto or Sumach ; in hand- 
ling in Annotto the pieces become brighter. For 
the handling in Sumach take lOj lbs. of it. Pre- 
pare another bath for which you take 186 lbs. of 
Eed wood. Handle in physic afterwards to the 
Eed wood and to the physic. 

The proportions are for 25 pieces. 

33. Orange. 

1 piece f half bleach. 
Handle the piece in the yellow mordant prepared 
with — 

16 1 ounces sugar of Lead, 
S\ ounces Litharge. 
Handle in twice, and terminate with 8J ounces 
of bichromate; after giving few turns to the 
piece, raise it up, add a little caustic lye and give 
few more turns. 

34. Light Blue. 

A piece f of 60 yards. 
Handle in a cold bath of 4 ounces of salt of tin ; 
then in 12 \ ounces of Logwood; wash; handle 
in — 



190 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

16 J ounces Nitrate of Iron 
3 ounces Salt of Tin ; 
Wash ; handle in — 

3 ounces prussiate of potash 

4 ounces sulphuric acid. 

Wring up; wash; handle in nitrate of iron; wash; 
handle in prussiate of potash, and wash. 

35. Chocolate. 
3 pieces half bleached. 
Prepare a bath with — 

2 large buckets of Sumach, 

3 " " Fustic, 
25 ounces of Eed Wood, 
1 quart Annotto. 

Handle the pieces in, then afterwards in copperas. 

36. American Gray. 

1 piece half bleached. 
Handle the piece in 2 ounces or 4 qts. of decoc- 
tion of sumach ; handle in copperas, then in lime 
water ; wash and handle at last in a bath pre- 
pared with — 

3 small buckets of Fustic, 

1J of Eed Wood, 

1 dipper of Lime Water. 

37. Walnut. 

Treat the piece first as above (36), and when it 
has the American gray shade, handle in a bath 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 191 

formed with three little buckets of Quercitron and 
a little Annotto. 

38. Green with Quercitron. 

Pieces. Dye in plain blue of a convenient 
shade ; I have found that to dye in a muddy vat, 
weak and warm, gives a finer blue than in a 
strong vat ; take the greenish shade in a very weak 
chloride of lime water and dry very quickly. 
Handle in acetate of alumina at 6°. The drying 
to the air by a calm weather, without much 
shade, is the most convenient. The dry pieces 
must be left to the air 24 to 36 hours to terminate 
the evaporation of the acetic acid. Dip them for 
one hour in water ; then begin to dye in a cold 
bath of Quercitron, and you heat progressively 
till 86°; leave half an hour to this temperature; 
wash and dry. 

39. Buff. 
Pieces. 

Handle in nitrate of iron with salt of tin ; wash 
handle in lime water and wash. 

Eepeat these operations till the desired shade ; 
the operations are done in cold bath. 

40. Rose. 
Pieces. 

Handle for a long time in warm Saffron, then 
brighten with vinegar or tartaric acid, etc., pro- 



192 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

vided it was an acid ; then if you want darker, 
take the old bath that you warm well, add to it 
tartaric acid, and handle again the piece in. 
Generally cider vinegar is the best. 

41. Light Gray. 

Pieces. 
Handle in a bath of Logwood, in copperas, and 
wash the all ; it must be done whilst cold. 

If you want darker ; increase the proportion of 
stuffs. 

42. Gray with Water. 
Pieces. 
Handle in a bath prepared with copperas and 
Logwood ; then wash in the river till the pieces 
are smooth (10 to 15 turns) ; if they are not fine 
enough handle them in a tepid bath of water. 

43. Yellow Gold on Cotton. 

Heat till boiling and stirring all time — 

8 \ ounces Sugar of Lead, 

16} ounces Litharge, 

3 gallons of Water. 
Kept boiling for about 10 minutes; leave to settle; 
decant, and whilst warm, handle carefully, in it, the 
bleached cotton. When the cotton is perfectly 
impregnated with sub-acetate of lead, dry it at a 
gentle heat, and handle it in a bath of bichromate 
of potash. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. l\)6 

For the above proportions take 8 { ounces of 
bichromate of potash mixed with 4 ounces of 
nitric acid. 

The bath must be always clear and limpid, it 
is an essential condition to obtain a fine shade. 

After dyeing, the cotton is kept 15 minutes in 
warm water and well washed. 

To give to the thread the gold brightness, pre- 
pare a solution with 2 drachms of saffron in 1 
quart of strong alcohol, that you weaken with 
proof-spirit, till a specimen dipped in this liquid 
has the required shade. The cotton wants to be 
dipped only a few minutes in this solution, wring 
it up, and dry to the shade. It is no use to wash 
after the saffron bath, because the color will tar- 
nish and take a ruft aspect. 

This method is very good for small quantities 
and little parcels of cotton ; the articles thus dyed 
have the softness of the silk, and are heavy. This 
last property is accounted by the use of yellow 
chrome to dye, and the softness is due to the treat- 
ment in the alcoholic solution of saffron. 

44. Catechu. 
Pieces. 
Handle in warm catechu ; handle in warm chro- 
mate; wash; handle in warm catechu; handle in 
warm chromate; wash. When you handle for the 
second time in the baths of catechu and chromate, 
it is no use to add anything. 
17 



194 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

45. Grenat. 
Pieces. 

Handle as above in a bath of catechu, then of chro- 
mate, and wash afterwards in a warm bath of Log- 
wood and Ked-wood, then handle in the physic, 
once more in Logwood and Ked-wood and wash. 

46. Violet. 
Pieces. 

Handle in warm Logwood ; handle in the salt of 
tin whilst cold ; handle in warm Logwood, then in 
cold salt of tin, once again in warm Logwood. 

If you begin by salt of tin, the Logwood takes 
too quick and will produce spots. 

47. Yellow. 

Bleached pieces f of 53 yards. 
Take an old bath of mordant, add to it a little 
fresh mordant (66 ounces sugar of lead and 66 
ounces litharge), handle the piece in whilst warm, 
keep it a long time; wring it up, struck it well; 
handle again in the mordant without adding any- 
thing; wring up and wash; then handle in a bath 
prepared with 8J ounces of chromate, give 6 turns, 
raise up ; add hydrochloric acid to the bath, give 6 
turns; raise again; add some hydrochloric acid, 
raise and wash. 

The reason why all the acid is not added in 
the same time is that the color will take too quick 



RECEIPTS TO DYE.» 195 

and produce spots; the same in the beginning 
when you pass twice in the same mordant, it is to 
have the color take better. * 

When you have made several pieces, put them 
aside, and when you have terminated what we 
have indicated, handle then again in the mordant, 
then wring up; wash; handle in the chromate in 
adding half of what you have given in beginning, 
wash, and the operation is achieved. You must 
wring well the pieces when out of the mordant. 
For every piece, prepare a fresh bath of chromate, 
and every time, the pieces must be well washed 
in the river 

48. Rose. 

One piece, 27 yards. 
Ilandle the piece in a warm bath containing 1 
pint extract of Saffron ; when the color has well 
taken, raise the piece up, add in the bath about 
1 pint of acetic acid, and handle the piece in till 
the bath is exhausted. 

You must be careful about the piece, because it 
can be spotted easily ; those spots become yellow, 
but disappear easily in rubbing them with some 
of the old bath. 

49. Red. 

11 half- bleached pieces, 95 yards. 
Handle them ail in a warm bath of sumach, and 
put them in a vat to terminate them one after the 
other ; handle first in the physic, then to the Red- 



196 COTTON AKD WOOL DYEING. 

wood whilst warm, then to the physic ; the Red- 
wood ; the physic ; the Red-wood. 

When out of every bath, the pieces must be 
wrung, but it is no use to wash them. 

50. Dark Green. 

Pieces half- bleached. 
Handle first in a warm bath prepared thus: — 

1st piece, two large backets of Logwood, 

2d " » small " 
Add in this bath a little tartaric acid, then handle 
in a cold bath of copperas; 1st piece, 6 spoons, 
give 6 turns. 2d piece, 2 spoons, give 6 turns. 
Wash; handle in lime water, give 4 turns; 1st 
piece, 3 small buckets ; 2d piece, 1 small bucket; 
wash ; handle again in warm Logwood without 
^adding anything for the first piece, for the second 
a little of the same that in passing to the cop- 
peras ; wash, pass in lime water, wash. After- 
wards prepare a very warm bath of Genista, 
handle for a long time the two pieces in, without 
adding anything ; after you wring up. Prepare a 
second bath of Genista, and whilst warm, handle 
the two pieces in without adding anything; han- 
dle them afterwards in a kettle of cold water, and 
give only 2 turns. 

51. Green. 

9 pieces of 93 yards }. 
Handle the half-bleached pieces in a bath of 10J 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 197 

lbs. of Sumach; mordant with 10i lbs. of alum 
and 49 ounces of soda ; handle without washing, 
when out of the mordant, in 72 J lbs. of Quercitron ; 
handle again on the old mordant in adding to it 
5J lbs. of alum and S\ lbs. of soda, and without 
washing handle in 72J lbs. of Woad and 27f 
Quercitron ; wash and terminate with Carmine of 
indigo. 

52. Dark Gray. 

8 half-bleached pieces, 50 to 60 yards. 
Handle in a warm bath of extract with tartaric 
acid. Take — 

1st piece, 14 small glasses of extract, 

2d " 8 " " " " 

3d " 6 " " " " 

Continue with 6 glasses; afterwards handle in the 
mordant of copperas. For the first you take 6 
spoons, for the second 1 spoon and continue so; 
wash ; pass in lime water and wash ; 

1st piece, 6 small buckets, 

2d piece, 3 small buckets, 
And continue with 2. After this handle again in 
the first bath of extract whilst warm ; for the first 
piece add 8 small glasses, and continue with 6. 
From this bath transport in another very warm, 
made with 6 spoons pyrolignite of iron for a piece, 
and continue with 2. Give a few turns in the 
river. 

17* 



198 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

53. Brown. 

8 pieces of 50 yards, half bleached. 
Begin to make a dark gray (52) ; after this, pass 
in lime water for the first piece, 5 little buckets in 
the same bath where they have been handled 
before to make them dark gray. For the second, 
almost the same; it is impossible to tell exactly 
how much it wants, add as much as is neces- 
sary to render the piece equal ; wash afterwards. 
When the pieces are all washed, handle them in a 
hot bath of Catechu — 

6$ ounces Catechu, 
33 ounces Blue Vitriol, 
Logwood and Redwood. 
Here you must use a quantity of Bed- wood, double 
that of the others according to the shade to obtam ; 
if you want darker add Logwood; after this opera- 
tion, handle again in a warm bath of 4 ounces of 
chromate by piece, then wash and brighten with 
Red-wood, Yellow-wood, etc., to make according 
to the specimen. 

54. Canary Bird. 

One bleached piece, 95 yards. 
Handle while warm in the yellow mordant with- 
out adding anything, raise it up, heat it well ; 
handle in the same mordant, raise, wash; handle 
in a cold bath of 2 ounces chromate; give a few 
turns, raise; add in the bath 2 small glasses of 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 199 

sulphuric acid ; handle again the piece in for 
some time and wash. 

The color is not bad, but the piece is not equal; 
then handle it again twice to the mordant, in add- 
ing some more to it; the bath of chromate must 
be fresh every time, you can put in hydrochloric 
acid, like for the yellow. 

55. Red. 
Pieces. 
Pass to Catechu and chromate, wash ; repeat again 
once these two operations, and for the second 
time, add in the bath of Catechu some Annotto ; 
then handle in the physic, wring up, raise, repeat 
three times these operations. 

56. Olive. 
Pieces. 

Dye gray (52), handle in lime water, and wash ; 
then pass in a warm bath of Genista, Red-wood, 
Log- wood, Annotto, soda, and Catechu. Pass the 
piece a long time, wring up, and wash. 

57. Green. 
Pieces. 

Dye gray (52), handle in lime water, and wash, 
then handle in a warm bath of Genista, Logwood, 
salsoda, wring up and expose. 

These pieces must stay a long time in the bath 
very warm, and when the piece is not dark enough 



200 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

wring it up before to add anything, because it 
becomes smoother, and takes better. 



58. Straw. 

Handle in a warm bath of sugar of lead, wash, 
and handle in chromate. 



59. Blue Vat. 

In the old bath you add — 
49 ounces Indigo, 
12| lbs. Copperas, 
16i « of Lime. 

Reduce the indigo into fine powder, and rub it 
well with water, to make a paste ; decant the clear 
liquor in the vat; repeat this operation till all the 
indigo is in suspension in water. Dissolve the 
copperas with hot water, slack the lime and add 
water enough to make a thin milk. 

When you add the copperas with the indigo, 
shake well and operate the same when you add 
the lime; when the whole is introduced, stir seve- 
ral times during the day. 

To dye, fix the piece to a circle with little hooks, 
when the piece has received two turns, turn it 
over. Leave the piece about half an hour in the 
vat, drain it out, it is green, and by the action of 
the oxygen of the air it turns blue, expose to the 
air till the required shade. 

At noon you stir the vat, but only till the mid- 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 201 

die, being careful not to touch" the bottom. When 
the vat is not strong enough, add indigo to it. 
Take ordinarily to continue — 

33 ounces Indigo, 

6J lbs. Copperas, 

8J lbs. Lime. 
Add half of it every night. 

When the pieces are achieved dry them to the 
air, then handle them in a bath of vitriol. This 
precaution to dry them before to handle them in 
the vitriol is useful, because the latter does not take 
so much of the color. Wash and brighten, if you 
wish, in a bath of Logwood. 

60. Blue. 

Pieces. 
Handle whilst warm in Logwood ; handle in violet 
mordant; handle in Logwood; wring up and raise. 
Handle in nitrate of iron, salt of tin and vitriol; 
wash after, each passage in these three baths. 

Handle in prussiate of potash with salt of tin 
and vitriol. 



202 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 



AETICLE IV. 

SIZINGS. 

1. Sizing s for Dye and White Pieces. 

For one bleached piece, calico 22 to 24 threads, 
take — 

12J ounces Fecula, 
44 gals, of Water. 
For every 24} lbs. of fecula take 8j ounces of lard 
or other fat to facilitate the sizing for dye pieces 
only. 

For unbleached pieces, take 4 ounces of fecula 
because the fatty substances that contain the piece 
prevent it to take the stiffening. It wants 31 lbs. 
fecula for pieces which must be calendered, and 
24} for pieces which must be sized. 

For light calicoes, add to the sizing some white 
calcined plaster from 4 to 5 ounces for one piece. 

2. Sizingsfor Borderings. For 20 to 22 dry pieces 
from 75 to 80 yards each. 

Take— 

31 lbs. Fecula, 

10 £ lbs. of Liquid Logwood. 



SIZINGS. 203 

Boil together; dissolve separately — 

33 ounces Wax, 

33 ounces Linseed Oil, 

1 ounce Verdigris, 
Pour in the above fecula. 

Verdigris is used to turn the Logwood. 

3. Black Stiffening for Damp Pieces. 

Take— 

31 pounds Flour, 
2<H " Fecula, 
10J " Logwood. 
Boil together, then add — 

33 ounces Yellow Wax, 
49 " Linseed Oil, 

1 ounce Verdigris, 

2 ounces Pyrolignite of Iron. 
Boil the all together. 

4. Sizing for Light Colors. 

To size take — 

8J pounds Starch, 
43i " Fecula, 
for 30 to 36 pieces with 29 ounces of any of the 
sizings below. / 

1st. Melt yellow wax once or twice with water, 
leave it settle,»then take J of this wax, § of tal- 
low. Melt another sizing with § yellow wax and 
J tallow, 



204: COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

2d. To have a strong sizing, take flour; to have 
a strong and long sizing, take fecula and flour. 

Pieces sized with much wax can be kept better 
than those in which it is much starch. 



DYEING ON THREADS. 205 



Part II.— PARISIAN" WOOL DYEING. 

First Section.— DYEING ON THREADS. 

CHAPTER I. 

Boilings and Compositions, 

1. Boiling of Alum, 
Use 41 \ pounds of wool. 

1st Boiling, 

For wool to be dyed Green, Woad, or Chestnut, 
take — 

12J pounds of Alum, 

6J pounds White Tartar. 
Boil 2*hours. 

2c? Boiling — Madder. 
Take— 

20J pounds Alum, 

4 " White Tartar. 

Boil 3J hours. 

18' 



206 CpTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

3d Boiling — Woad Yellow. 

Take— 

20J pounds Alum, 

49 ounces of Tartar. 
Boil 3 hours. 

2. Boiling of Chlorine. 
Use 41 J pounds of Wool. 
Take— 

12J pounds of Alum, 
6i " " White Tartar, 
33 ounces " Chloride. 
Give the first boiling for 2 hours; raise and 
continue with. 

10i lbs. Alum, 
5i " White Tartar, 
33 ounces Chloride. 
Boil lj hour. 
Change the head of places of the first boiling and 
handle again in — 

8J lbs. Alum, 

4J " White Tartar, 

25 ounces Chloride. 

« 

3. Composition of Raw Blue. 
For 33 ounces of indigo, use 10 J pounds of sul- 
phuric acid. The mixture is done in a lead ves- 
sel heated in a water bath for four or five hours. 
(See book on fabrication of carmine and blues of 
indigo.) 



DYEING ON THREADS. 207 

4. Cochineal Composition. 

To 33 ounces of cochineal add 66 ounces of 
liquid ammonia. Mix the both in a copper vessel, 
boil from four to five hours. 

5. Scarlet Composition. 
Take— 

20 J lbs. JSTitric Acid, 
25 ounces Kitchen Salt. 
6 % lbs. of Tin. 
The composition is prepared as follows in a 
stoneware vessel : Fill one quarter of the vessel 
with water to dissolve the salt, add the nitric acid 
and water so .that the vessel is not entirely full, 
add the tin handful by handful, and do not add 
any more till the preceding is dissolved. 



208 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 



CHAPTER II. 

Receipts to Dye. 

1. Deep Scarlet. 

In a clean kettle introduce — 

33 ounces Composition of Tin, 
33 " Crystallized Cream Tartar. 
"When it begins to heat, skim well, boil in it, wools 
either for black or common colors, such as chest- 
nut or green. Leave to ebullition half an hour, 
raise and add — 

10J lbs. Composition of Scarlet, 
6J " Cream Tartar, 
for the first handling; boil the wools for one hour, 
raise and add 12 i pounds of small lake that you 
dilute in a pail of water with some of the bath of 
the kettle; boil one hour, raise, wash well, brighten 
on a white bath with — 

33 ounces of Composition, 
33 " Cream Tartar, 
16J " of Cochineal. 
Boil half an hour, wash. If you wish a deep 
scarlet of Nismes add a little Fustic in the bath 
to give a straw color bottom ; afterwards put 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 209 

the lake that you are careful to dilute with 8£ 
ounces of composition in case it was resinous. 

2. Black-Blue. 

Use 20J lbs. of Wool. 
Pass in a bath of gall. Boil two hours in the 
following bath — 

6J lbs. Bed Tartar, 

33 ounces Blue' Vitriol, 

25 " Copperas, 

1 " Alum. 
Wash well. 

3. Middling Black. 

Boil one hour in the following bath — 

5i lbs. Eed Tartar, 

33 ounces of Blue Vitriol, 

33 ounces Copperas. 
Wash. 

4. Black-black. 

Boil 1J hour in the following bath — 

5 J lbs. Red Tartar, 

33 ounces Blue Vitriol, 

49 " Copperas. 
Wash. Generally for the first handling in galls, 
it wants at least two hours of ebullition, and one 
and a half hour for the other handlings. 



cr 



18* 



210 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

5. Darkening or Blackening. 

To prepare this bath put a handful of red 
tartar in 2 or 3 pails of Logwood, do not begin too 
warm, leave half an hour ; then take another pass 
with 8 or 10 pails according to the shade ; boil 
slowly. When the pass is done, take again the 
first to finish it. When out of the dye always 
expose the color to the air before washing. 

6. Blue de France — French Blue. 

Use 20J lbs. of Wool. 
Put together — 

8 \ lbs. of Cyanide of Potassium, or 

4J " Prussiate of Potash, 

16 ounces Sulphuric Acid, 

49 ounces of Crystallized Tartar. 
Begin to work while cold, and then heat slowly, 
and when at 112° put in it 16J ounces salt of tin 
and 16| ounces sulphuric acid, heat to ebullition; 
having left three hours on the kettle, raise, give 
air, and wash. 

7. Blue de France on Riboud Wool. 
Use 51J lbs. of Wool. 
Discharge and wash in 6| lbs. of sulphuric acid. 
Put in a tepid bath of — 

6 J lbs. Tartar, 

16J ounces Salt of Tin, 

8 J lbs. Prussiate of Potash. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 211 

Eaise the bath to ebullition, raise and add 8 J lbs. 
of sulphuric acid ; boil 1 J hour ; raise ; give air ; 
put in the bath with 16J ounces oxy-muriate of 
tin, 16J ounces salt of tin, boil half an hour, then 
terminate with Logwood. 

8. Violet and Heavy Blue. 

Use 20J lbs. of Wool. 
Put a pail of the bath of chloride in the bath, 
boil a little, skim ; add a pailful of Logwood and 
one or two spoons of blue according to the shade; 
boil slowly. 

The heavy blue is done on the same bath that 
the above violet, only add — 

4J lbs. of Blue Carmine, 
1 pail of Logwood, 
according to the specimen ; boil lightly. 

9. Chestnut. 

Continue on the above bath (8), and add to it — 
1 pail Brazil, 
6 pails Logwood, 
16J ounces Turmeric 
if the specimen requires it. Boil well. 

10. Heaven Blue. 

Heat to ebullition — 

4 \ lbs. Crystal of Cream Tartar, 
4^ lbs. of Alum. 



212 COTTOX AND WOOL DYEIXG. 

Skim, and add — 

33 ounces of Blue Carmine, 
1 glass of Sulphuric Acid. 
Give a few turns and wash ; add — 
4J lbs. Tartar, 
33 ounces of Blue Carmine. 
If the specimen is blue-red, add a little ammo- 
niacal cochineal. 

You can continue on the same bath to make 
green-blue more or less dark, that you boil in alum 
with a bag of Yellow wood from 10 to 12J lbs.; 
boil according to the specimen, add — 
1 glass Sulphuric Acid, 
33 ounces Carmine. 

11. Madder. 

Use 2(H lbs. of Wool. 
Begin in a tepid bath of — 
101 lbs. of Madder, 
1 or 2 pails of Brazil, 
according to specimen; if it is not strong enough, 
add one pint of urine and refresh the bath with 
some fresh water. If it is not yellow enough, 
once boiling, add one glass of scarlet composition. 

12. Woad Yellow. 

Boil 8 bundles of woad for one hour, raise; 
wash them to fill the kettle, handle in the wool 
well washed, and after 8 or 10 turns, raise and add 
in the bath 33 ounces of salsoda or ammonia. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE.- 213 

13. Woad and Turmeric Yellow. 

For 103 lbs. of Wool. 
Use— 

22 bundles of Woad, 
5 \ lbs. of Soda, 

Some Turmeric. 
Give a few passes in the bath of woad, raise ; 
dd the soda and the turmeric, and give again a 
few turns. 

14. Yellow, Orange and Buff. 

Take— 

33 ounces of -Scarlet Composition, 

33 ounces Crystals of Tartar. 
Boil in it wool for black, about \ an hour, raise ; 
add — 

8i lbs. Composition, 

6J lbs. Tartar, 

8 J ounces Madder, 

3J ounces Turmeric. 
Boil lightly. 

15. Yellow with Wood. 

Boil 14 to 16 } 2 pounds of Fustic in a bag, add — 

3 J ounces of Cochineal. 

8 J lbs. of Scarlet Composition, 

6i lbs. of Tartar. 
Boil for f of an hour. The second pass can be 
continued with the same proportions. 

Orange is prepared in the same manner ; you 



214 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

put in cochineal and turmeric 16J ounces, accord- 
ing to the specimen ; boil well. 

16. Rose and Saffron Yellow Color. 

Use 15 sticks loaded with wool, continue with 
one quarter tartar, four good spoons of red, one 
small spoon of blue, and one spoon of scarlet com- 
position. Before beginning, you must skim. All 
the shades are done in the same bath one after 
the other. 

17. Chemical Black. 

Boil the first pass for one hour and a half with 
the mordant, and 11 pails of Logwood ; continue 
with 9 pails, give one and a quarter hour of ebulli- 
tion ; wash, handle in a fresh bath of Yellow wood 
and chroraate, give five turns, raise and wash. A 
small bag of Yellow wood is sufficient for 20 or 
30 sticks. On the second bath give 10 turns with- 
out boiling. 

To utilize the first bath, you can make in it 
one pass in gall for ordinary black, and in the 
evening you can give a boiling on the second. 

18. Ordinary Blue. 

Mordant with alum and cream tartar; dye 
with blue, do not boil too long, and do not leave 
too long a time on the kettle, because the wool 
will turn green. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 215 

19. Chestnut. 
Use 31 pounds of Wool. 
Mordant with — 

3 lbs. of Alum, 
3 " of Tartar; 
terminate with — 

12 pails of Logwood, 
14 " of Brazil wood. 

20. Blue de France. 
Use 30 yards of Merinos. 
Prepare a kettle, furnished with a basket, so that 
the wool cannot touch the edges, with — 
33 ounces Prussiate of Potash, 
33 '" Cream of Tartar, 
2 quarts of Sulphuric acid diluted with 

one quart of water, 
2 ounces of Tartaric Acid. 
Dissolve and put a little in the kettle ; handle the 
merino in, heat gradually for two hours and a 
half, boil half an hour. Wash well; prepare a 
new bath with — 

1 quart of the same Acid ; 
16 J ounces of Cream Tartar, 

2 a Sulphate of Alumina. 
Boil half an hour and wash. 

21. Middling Prussiate Blue. 
Use 10 or 12 J pounds of wool or a piece of me- 
rino of the same weight. Prepare the kettle with 
water, heat at, 95°, add the prussiate, stir the bath, 



216 



COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 



put the wool in, turn it a quarter of an hour, raise 
and add in the bath 16 J ounces of sulphuric acid at 
66° , stir well, put the wool in and work it in 20 
minutes without heating it ; raise, add 21 ounces 
of sulphuric acid, stir and put the wool, heat 
slowly so to bring the kettle to ebullition in one 
and a half hour ; boil from twenty minutes to half 
an hour, raise, give air and wash well. To darken 
you can add a little alkali to the prussiate. 





22. Tea. ' 


Use 43J lbs. of Wool. 


Dye with — 




12 % ounces Yellow Wood, 


4 


" Logwood, 


m 


" Sumach, 


161 


" Sandal Wood, 


4 


" Copperas, 


21 


" Cream Tartar, 


H 


" Madder. 




23. Fashion. 


Use 43J lbs 


. of Wool. 


Dye with — 




29 oun 


ces Yellow Wood, 


21 " 


Logwood, 


6 " 


Madder, 


21 ■ 


Sumach, 


33 » 


Sandal Wood, 


33 " 


Quercitron, 


8J « 


Copperas. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 217 

24. Brown. 
Use 43J lbs. of Wool. 
Blue at will. 
Begin with — 

10J lbs. of Alum, 

33 ounces of Hydrochloric Acid, 
Terminate with — 

10 J lbs. Logwood, 

35 lbs. Madder, 

16} ounces Ammonia. 

25. Dark Olive, 
Use 45i lbs. of Wool. 
Blue at will. 
Dye with — 

4 J lbs. of Tartar, 

33 ounces of Hydrochloric Acid; 

57} lbs. of Yellow Wood, 

31 lbs. of Madder, 

33 ounces of Copperas. 

26. Black. 
Use 49} lbs. of Wool. 
Dye with — 

6 J lbs. Copperas, 

4J lbs. Tartar, 

5J lbs. Yellow Wood. 
Darken with — 

12J lbs. Logwood, 

4 lbs. Sumach. 

19 



218 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

27. Blue Cloth. 

Pieces of S4 yards. 

Use— . 

7 1 lbs. of Alum, 
9i lbs. of Tartar, 
8 J ounces of Blue Vitriol, 
8J ounces of Copperas, 
1 glass of Hydrochloric Acid. 
Terminate with — 

10 J- lbs. of Logwood. 

28. Violet. 

Use51Ubs. of Wool. 
Begin with — 

6J lbs. of Alum, 

8 J ounces of Tartar, 

1 spoonful of Dissolution of Indigo. 
Terminate with — 

33 ounces Eedwood, 

6$ " Logwood, 

16| " Sumach, 

16J " Madder. 
Darken with — 

4 ounces Copperas. 



RECEirTS TO DYE. 219 



29. Fashion. 

Use 61 1 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil one hour with — 

5} lbs. Red Wood, 
16J ounces Logwood, 
8 \ lbs. Sumach, 
16 J ounces Madder, 
33 ounces Tartar, 
8J ounces Alum, 
2 glasses Indigo, 
1^ ounce Copperas. 



220 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 



Second Section.— MERINOS. 

CHAPTER I. 

Mordants and Dissolutions. 

1. Violet Mordant. 

Use 103 lbs. or 8 pieces. 
Mordant with — 

20 |lbs. of Alum, 
10i lbs. of Tartar, 
5 J lbs. Chloride of Zinc. 

2. Green Mordant. 

Use— 

6J lbs. Alum, 

10J lbs. Tartar, 

5 lbs. Chloride of Lime. 

3. Dissolution of Tin for Crimson. 
Take— 

4 lbs. of Hydrochloric Acid, 
1 lb. Nitric Acid, 

5 to 8 lbs. of Tin. 



MORDANTS AND DISSOLUTIONS. 221 

4. Ammoniacal Cochineal. 

Use 16h ounces of powdered cochineal, pour on 
it from 3 to 4 lbs. of liquid ammonia. Put the 
vase in a water bath, that you let to boil from 3 
to 5 hours and stir all the time. When the all 
begins to be thick leave it to dry to the air, then 
put back in the vessel with water and boil till the 
all is dissolved. 

5. Black Mordant. 

Use 4 lbs. Blue Yitriol, 
5 lbs. Tartar, 
3 lbs. Copperas. 
2 ounces Chloride of Lime. 
Boil the -pieces in the following mordants for 
2 or 2?, hours. 



19* 



222 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 



CHAPTER II. 

Receipts to Dye. 

1. Blue de France. 

Use 2 pieces or 30 lbs. 
Dissolve the following — 

66 ounces Prussiate of Potash, 

33 ounces of Kitchen Salt, 

8 J ounces Salt of Tin, 

4 lbs. Sulphuric Acid, 

4 lbs. Alum. 
Manipulate the pieces in this cold bath ; bring 
to ebullition after 3 hours, let boil 1 hour; wash. 
To have darker, handle in the same bath to which 
you add chloride of zinc and Logwood in sufficient 
quantity to arrive to the specimen. 

When you add chloride of zinc it is of no use 
to employ alum in the bath ; you mordant in the 
violet mordant No. 1, and manipulate in for \ an 
hour. 






RECEIPTS TO DYE. 223 

2. Green. 

Use 10]- lbs. Merinos. 
It is not necessary to wash after the mordant. 
Take— 

3i lbs. of Yellow Wood, 
25 ounces Alum, 
6 " Tartar, 
Indigo at will. 

For the green in general, make only one bath. 

3. Violet. 

The pieces are passed in a boiling bath of Log- 
wood and composition of raw blue; for dark 
shades boil a little. 

4. Archil. 

With the damp archil it is of no use to boil ; if 
you boil to obtain shades more blue add in the 
kettle about one ounce of soda and operate whilst 
cold. 

5. Bronze and Olive. 

Mordant with the green mordant No. 2 and try 
to make as the specimen with Yellow wood, 
Archil, Turmeric, and Indigo. Boil well. The 
Yellow wood is ordinarily put in bags. 

6. Olive Green more or less Darkened. 
These shades are made with Turmeric, Yellow 



224 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

wood, Indigo, and Archil. You can also give an 
Annotto or vat blue ground. 

7. Red Brown. 
Archil, Fustic, Turmeric, tartar, and alum. 

8. Brown more or less Red. 

Mordant violet, for light shades make the mor- 
dant weaker ; then dye with Archil, Yellow wood, 
and Indigo; if it wants more yellow add Turmeric, 
you can also make those shades with Red wood 
and Logwood when out of the mordant. Boil a 
little for dark shadesr 

9. Black. 

Use black mordant, wash and terminate with 
logwood. 

10. Red Lake. 

Use 41J lbs. merinos. 
Take from 2 J to 3 lbs. of powdered lake, pour on 
it 3 lbs. dissolution of tin; pour all in a kettle 
with 4 lbs. crystallized tartar ; heat gradually so 
to have it boiling after one hour, then boil for 
one and a half hour. 

If the wools are not bright or dark enough 
wash them and handle them again in a fresh bath 
with some dissolution of tin and crystallized 
tartar; you can also use a little cochineal and 
kept half an hour in this bath. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 225 

^ 11. Coquelicot. 

Dissolution of tin, crystallized tartar, Ammo- 
niacal cochineal, and Fustic. 

12. Crimson. 

Ammoniacal cochineal, dissolution of tin as for 
the red ; to begin take only half of the tartar and 
cochineal ; if it needs a little blue, add a little 
soda in the same bath. 

13. Bed Purple. 

Dye purple, add in the bath a little Archil, and 
manipulate in while boiling. 

14. Gray Pearl. 

It is prepared with Archil, Yellow wood, Fustic 
and Indisro. The mordant with alum and tartar 

o 

about half that for the violet, manipulate till the 
required shade. If the color is not equal add more 
tartar ; if you have fine, reddish, bluish shades to 
make use Ammoniacal cochineal. 

15. Yellow. 

Use 10 J- pounds of Merinos. 
To 3 pounds Quercitron or 3 pounds Fustic (fustic 
gives the finest yellow) add 4 ounces of disso- 
lution of tin and a little crystallized tartar, boil; 
skim, pass the wool without boiling; wash well. 



226 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

16. Orange. 
Add a little cochineal in the above bath. 

17. Preparation of the Lake. 

Take 7 J pounds of lake and 7 J pounds disso- 
lution of tin, shake well from time to time, and 
the older the bath, the best it is. 

The dissolution of tin is done with 16J ounces 
hydrochloric acid and 5 J pounds of tin. 

Hydrochloric acid is better to use than nitric. 



SCOURING, MORDANTS, ETC. 227 



Third Section.— DYES ON WOOL FRO^i 
THE GOBELINS. 

CHAPTER I. 

Scouring — Mordant s, Etc. 

Scouring. 

It is 4 wa) 7 s of scouring wool : — 
1st. by Lime, 
2d. "" Carbonate of Soda, 
3d. " Bran, 
4th. " Soap. 

1. Scouring by Lime. 

In a wooden vat put 75 gallons of water and 4 
pounds of quick lime for every 20 pounds of 
wool. 

Slack the lime and make a milk of it. Fix the 
wool in strings, and suspend it to a stick by the 
string, put it in the tub so that the wool is entirely 
covered with the liquid, stir from time to time, leave 
24 hours, raise and change the heads, i. exchange 
the string from the top to the bottom, leave again 
24 hours, raise, wash well, pass few minutes in 
a bath of hydrochloric acid at J p , wash well. 



228 COTTOX AND WOOL DYE1XG. 

2. Scouring icith Carbonate. 

Take— 

38 gallons of Water, 

4 pounds of Carbonate of Soda, 
for 20 pounds of wool. 

Heat the soda and water in a tin kettle, between 
176 and 185°, at that time stop the fire and han- 
dle the wool, fix on sticks, in that bath, turn the 
wool every 5 minutes, leave it in \ an hour, raise, 
wash and pass in hydrochloric acid at §°, wash 
well. 

3. Scouring with Bran. 

Use 20 pounds of Wool. 
Take 38 gallons of water and 10 quarts of bran 
kept in a bag ; boil the bran with the water so to 
have it throw away its gluten, then take it out. 
Dip the wool in and leave it boil h an hour. The 
first wool is a little yellowish. Eaise and wash 
well. 

4. Scouring with Soap. 

Use 20 pounds of Wool. 
Take— 

38 gallons of Water, and 

5 pounds " Soap. 

Boil the water in a tin kettle, add to it the soap, 
dissolve beforehand, take out the fire and dip in 
the wool fixed on the lissoirs, turn every 5 min- 
utes, for one hour, raise, wring up and pass imme- 
diately to the sulphur. 



SCOURING, MORDANTS, ETC. 229 

5. Darkening Bath. 

For one barrel of water, take — 

Logwood 50 pounds, 

Gall Nuts 4 " 

Sumach 10 " 

Sulphate of Iron 8 pounds. 
Dissolve the all and keep for use. 

6. Dissolution of Tin. 

Take 4 pounds commercial nitric acid and J lb. 
of salt ammonia, put the all in a stoneware vessel 
and add to it J a pound of pure tin. Put the tin 
by small portions, and when dissolved add little 
by little 2 pounds of tin. 

7. Ammoniacal Cochineal. 

Take one pound of cochineal, mix it with three 
pounds of liquid ammonia, leave together for two 
hours, and heat in a water bath for twenty-four 
hours at about 122°, evaporate to dryness, and 
dry on a cloth. 

Take that residuum ; boil it one hour with 20 
parts of water, skim, add one part of vinegar, boil 
a quarter an hour, leave to settle, decant and use 
the clear part to dye. 



20 



230 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

8. Dissolution of Tin for Wool Passed to the Bran 

and Lime. 
Take— 

16 lbs. Nitric Acid, 

2 " Salt Ammonia, 
12 " of Water. 

When dissolved, add slowly by little portions at 
a time 6 pounds of tin, and kept for use. 

9. Physic. 
Take— 

4 lbs. Nitric Acid, 

12 " Hydrochloric Acid, 

1 " Tin. 
Operate as above. 

10. Preparation of the Lake. 
Eeduce the lake into powder and heat this pow- 
der in the following manner : — 
4 pounds of Lake mix with — 

3 lbs. of Sulphuric Acid at 66°, 
8 " of Water. 

Shake well ; 24 hours after add 20 pounds of 
water, leave 24 hours and decant the clear. 

11. Ordinary Mordant. 
Take for 20 pounds of wool, 5 pounds of pure 
alum, and 2 J pounds of cream of tartar; boil, 
handle the wool in, leave it two hours in turning 
it about every five minutes. Baise it, wring it 
up and keep it damp in a cellar, wash it before 
using it. 



BLEACHING AND WHITES. 231 



CHAPTER II. 

Bleaching and Whites. 

1. Passage to the Sulphur. 
You must use a room well closed. Put the 
wool, passed to the soap and damp, on sticks that 
you fix in the room. Place the sulphur in an 
iron chaldron and light it; shut the door and stop 
well all the joints; leave twenty-four hours; open 
the room, let the gas to escape, turn the wool, 
light the sulphur again, and leave twenty-four 
hours ; take out the wool, wash it and let it dry, 
you have the pale white. 

2. Bluish White. 

Handle the wool which has received the sul- 
phur in well water keeping indigo in suspension, 
handle in this bath till the required shade is ob- 
tained. You can use for the same purpose ultra- 
marine, carmine and sulphate of indigo. 

3. White Rose. 
Handle the wool in water containing a little of 
the solution of ammoniacal cochineal. 



232 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

4. Violaceous White. 

Mix together the two above. 

Observation. — You can obtain a white much 
whiter in preparing a milk with water and Spanish 
white, and passing in it the sulphuretted wool ; 
wash, wring up, and dry. The white obtained is 
whiter than the polish white. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 233 



CHAPTER III. 

Receipts to Dye. 

All colors in which enter woad, madder, co- 
chineal, the wool has been scoured with lime. 

The greens with carmine of indigo and yellow 
woods ; violets with cochineal and carmine of in- 
digo require wool scoured with carbonate. 

The blue- with the vat require a wool scoured 
with bran. 

1. Yellow. 

Use 20 pounds of wool scoured with lime; mor- 
dant with alum 5 lbs., tartar 8| ounces. It is 
necessary to use a tin kettle. 

When you mordant for a single color you can 
put in the bath all the wool, but on the contrary 
if you mordant for a gam, put the wool in it skein 
by skein, one every ten minutes. For dark colors 
leave two hours, for light leave half an hour. 

Raise the wool, wring it up, and take it while 
damp in the cellar. You must wash it before 
using it. 

In well water boil for a quarter of an hour two 
bundles of woad ; you put the woad in when the 
20* 



23-i COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

water boils. In another kettle you have warm 
water. 

In a little earthen vessel put some warm water, 
with a little coloring, and increase the color suc- 
cessively. You make the degradation in the little 
vessel, skein by skein. If you want all your wool 
the same shade, after the boiling of the woad take 
this plant out, and pass all the wool in the same 
bath till the required shade. Wash well. 

If you wish to darken, you use, after the dye in 
woad, some of the darkening solution, one or two 
dippers full, or you can use also some pyrolignite 
of iron, which gives a more solid color. 

2. Ytlloiv with Acid. 
Take 12 gallons of warm water, mix it with 1 
gallon of nitric acid at 31° ; heat the mixture at a 
temperature of about 1-19° : handle the wool in 
till the required shade. Wash well in running 
water. 

3. Yellow with Yellow Wood. 
Use 100 lbs. of Wool. 
Mordant with — 

25 lbs. of Alum, 
5 " " Tartar. 
Boil 3 hours. Take the wool damp and with- 
out washing, keep it till next day in the cellar. 

Dye with 20 lbs. of Yellow- wood that you boil 
in water for 2 hours. Take the wood out; refresh 
the bath and pass the wool, that you leave till the 
required shade. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 235 

4. Yellow iviih Fustic. 

Take water and throw in it the wood, that you 
boil \ an hour. Pour in the bath — 
2 lbs. Scarlet Composition, 
2 " of Tartar. 
Stir well and handle the wool in while slightly 
boiling. 

5. Red with Madder. 

Use 100 lbs. of Wool. 
Dissolve in water — 

25 lbs. of Alum, 
6 " of Tartar. 
Handle the wool in, let boil 3 hours, raise ; give 
air and wash. 

In a kettle with water, put 50 lbs. of madder ; 
boil and stir ; handle the wool in and stir it till 
the bath boils ; raise and wash well. Prepare 
another bath with — 

6 lbs. of Madder, 
1 " of Tin Composition. 
. Handle the wood in till the required shade; 
raise; wash well. 

6. Military Red. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured to the lime. 
Mordant with — 

4 to 5 lbs. of Alum, 

2^ lbs. of Tartar. 
Boil the wool in for 3 hours, raise ; and wash. 



236 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

To dye, prepare a bath with — 
5 lbs. of Alum, 

1 lb. of Composition and Madder. 

Heat slowly ; put the wool in and boil slightly 
till the required shade ; raise ; wash well. 

7. Crimson. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with lime. 
Mordant with — 

5 lbs. of Alum, 

2 J " of Tartar. 

Boil 2 hours (for dark crimson) ; raise ; wash 
and keep in a cellar. 

Prepare a bath with cochineal, and pass the 
wool in, raise it from time to time till the required 
shade; operate while boiling. When done, raise 
and wash. 

8. Fine Scarlet. 

Use 100 lbs. of Wool scoured to the bran. 
Prepare a bath with — 

115 gals, of Water, 

25J lbs. of Tartar, 

1J " of Cochineal. 
Warm the bath and when near boiling add 12 h 
lbs. of tin composition ; boil, put the wool in and 
boil one hour and a half; raise, wash. 
Prepare another bath with — 

180 gals, of Water, 

5 lbs. of Cochineal. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 237 

IIeat near boiling and add 12J lbs. of tin disso- 
lution, boil, dip the wool and leave till the required 
shade ; raise, wring up and wash. 

9. False Scarlet. 
Same as above, only instead of cochineal use 
Brazil wood. 

10. False Crimson. 
Same as Crimson (instead of cochineal use Brazil). 

11. Violaceous Scarlet. 
Instead of river or spring water, use well water. 

12. Rose Red. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil the wool with — 

4 lbs. Tartar, 

2 " Alum, 

1 lb. of Tin Dissolution. 
Add the cochineal and operate like the scarlet. 
The quantity of cochineal used varies according to 
the shade. 

13. Capucine. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with lime. 
Use the same proportions, that for scarlet, only 
when the bath is boiling add some Fustic kept 
in a bag. If the color is a little too yellow, 
take out the bag of Fustic and put it again when 
needed. 

You can use half Cochineal and add Madder 
without Fustic. Operate in a boiling bath. 



238 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

14. Other. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with lime. 
Prepare the first bath with — 
3J lbs. Fustic, 
3 " Tin Composition, 

1 lb. Tartar. 
Boil 2 hours ; wash. 

Prepare another bath with — 

2 lbs. Tin Composition, 
J lb. Cochineal. 

Boil till the required shade ; raise ; wash. 

15. Meat Color. 

Use 20 lbs. Wool scoured with lime. 
Mordant with — 
5 lbs. Alum, 
2J " Tartar. 
Boil 2 hours, wring and wash. Prepare a bath 
with Madder, Woad, and darkening solution ; the 
quantities according to the shade to obtain. Dye 
in a boiling bath ; raise and wash. 

16. Rose. 
Use 20 pounds of Wool scoured with lime. 
Mordant with — 

5 lbs. of Alum, 
2J " Tartar. 
Boil two hours, wash. 

Dye w T ith Cochineal and very little Madder, 
according to the shade. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 239 

17. Red with Madder. 

Use 20 pounds of Wool scoured with lime, mor- 
dant as above (16). 

Dye with madder, raise, wash. 

18.- Amaranihys Good Dye. 

Use 25 pounds of Lime. 
Take a bath of fine violet, add to it — 
6 lbs. Tartar, 

1 " Composition of Tin. 

Put the wool in, boil two hours, raise and wash. 
Dye with — 

2 lbs. Cochineal, 
2 "- Tartar, • 

and at last pass in tepid water containing a little 
carmine of indigo. 

19. False Amarantliys. 

Use 25 pounds of Wool. 
Boil -two and a half hours in a bath prepared 
with — 

6 lbs. Alum, 

5| " Tartar, 

J- u Composition of Tin, 

\ " Logwood. 
Raise and wash. Prepare a bath with 1J pounds 
cochineal, and 1 pound tartar. 
Dye in this bath, raise and wash. 



240 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

20. Pomegranate Flower. 
Use 50 pounds of Wool. 
Boil two hours with — 
3 lbs. Fustic, 

1 " Tartar, 

2J " Composition. 
Raise and w r ash. Dye with — 

2 lbs. Composition, 
f " of Cochineal. 

Eaise, wash. 

21. Jujube. 
Use 20 pounds of Wool. 
Boil with — 

2 J lbs. Fustic, 

2 " Composition, 

1 " Tartar. 
Dye with — 

2 lbs. Composition, 
J " of Cochineal. 

22. Saffron Yellow Color. 

Use 20 pounds of Wool. 
Boil with — 

3 J lbs. Fustic, 

2 " Composition, 

1 " Tartar. 
Dye with — 

J lb. Cochineal, 

23" Cassia. 
Use 20 pounds Woo]. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 2-il 



Buil with — 

8 lbs. Fustic, 
1 " Tartar, 
2J " Composition. 
Dye with — 

J lb. Cochineal, 

1 M Madder, 

1J " Composition. 

24. Orange. 

Use 20 pounds of Wool. 
Boil with — 

2 lbs. Fustic, 
2 " Tartar, 

2 " - Composition. 
Dye with — 

J lb. Cochineal, 

2 lbs. Composition. 

25. Apricot. 

Use 20 lbs. Wool. 
Boil with — 

3 lbs. Fustic, 

1} lb. Composition, 
1~ " Tartar. 
Dye with 3 ounces cochineal. 



21 



242 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

26. Fire. 

Use 20 lbs. Wool. 
Boil with — 

3 lbs. Fustic, 

2 " Composition, 
1J" Tartar. 

Dye with — 

3 lbs. Composition, 
f lb. Cochineal. 

27. Gold. 

Use 20 lbs. Wool. 
Boil with — 

3 lbs. Fustic, 

3 " Composition, 
2 " Tartar. 

Dye with J lb. of cochineal. 

28. Janquille. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil with — 

5J lbs. Fustic, 
| " Tartar, 

4 " Composition. 
Dye with 5 lbs. cochineal. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 243 

29. Hind. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil with — 

i lb. of Fustic, 

1 " Composition, 

i " Tartar. 
Dye 2 ounces cochineal. 

30. Army Scarlet. 
Use 150 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil 2 hours in 

20 lbs. Composition, 
10 " Fustic, 
8 J Tartar. 
Kaise and wash. 

To dye boil water, add to it 10 lbs. cochineal, 
stir well, pour in the bath 21 lbs. composition and 
boil the wool in for one hour. 

31. Gold Button. 

Use 100 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil 3 hours in — 

25 lbs. of Alum, 

6 " Tartar, 

Kaise and wash. 
Dye with — 

10 lbs. of Madder, 

70 " Woad. 
Boil the woad 1 hour, raise it, dip the wool in 
the bath and leave it till all the coloring matter 



241 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

is absorbed ; raise the wool, add the madder, boil, 
dip the wool till the required shade; raise, wash. 

32. Violet. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with lime. Mor- 
dant with — 

5 lbs. Alum, 
2| lbs. Tartar. 
Dye with cochineal and pass in the indigo vat. 

33. Other. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with carbonate. 
Mordant as above (32). 

To dye prepare a bath with water, ammoniacal 
cochineal, and carmine of indigo, with alum to 
facilitate the fixation of the blue. Dye according 
to the shade and wash. 

34. Other. 

Use 10 lbs. of Wool scoured to the carbonate. 
Mordant with — 

2J lbs. of Alum, 
li " Tartar. 
Prepare a bath of archil in well water, and dye 
according to the required shade. 

35. Lilac. 
Use 100 lbs. of Wool. 

Boil 2 hours with — 

4 lbs. Alum, 

2 " Tartar. 
Wash. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 245 

Prepare two separate baths of Logwood and 
Brazil, add a little of each, to the bath, dip the 
wool, raise, add coloring, raise, and continue thus 
till the required shade is obtained. 

36. Good Dye Lilac. 

Use Wool scoured by lime. 
Give a light blue vat, and wash. 

Dye with very little Cochineal, composition, and 
tartar. 

37. Purple. 

Use 100 lbs. of Wool. 
Prepare a bath with — 
25 lbs. Alum, 
6 " Tartar, 

1 u Composition, 
3 " Logwood. 

Boil together, put the wool in, raise, wash, and 
handle in a fresh bath of very little sulphate of 
copper and Logwood ; raise ; wash. 

38. Forget-me-not. 
Operate as the purple, only use less matters. 

39. Gray. 

Use 10 lbs. of Wool scoured with lime. 
Mordant with — 

2 J lbs. of Alum, 
l\ " Tartar. 

21* ■ 



246 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

Prepare a bath with Cochineal, Yellow wood, 
Blue, and Madder, and dye according specimen. 

40. Dead Leave. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with lime. 
Mordant with — 

5 lbs. Alum, 
2 J " Tartar. 
Bye with Madder, Woad, and darkening solu- 
tion. 

41. Gray. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with lime. 
Mordant as above. 

Dye with Woad, Madder, very little Cochineal, 
and darkening solution. 

42. Vinous. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with carbonate. 
Mordant as above. 

Dye with Cochineal and darkening solution. 

43. Bronze. 

Use 100 pounds of Wool. 
Boil three hours with — 
25 lbs. Alum, 
6 " Tartar, 
10 " of Woad. 
Eaise and wash. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 247 

Dye with — 

80 lbs. of Woad, 
20 " of Madder. 
Wash. 

Pass in blue vat till the required shade is ob- 
tained. 

44. Other. 

Use 100 pounds of Wool. 
Boil in 60 pounds of Yellow wood — 
40 lbs. of Woad, 
5 u Composition. 
After the ebullition add 24 pounds alum, 4 pounds 
madder ; dip the wool in, boil four hours ; stop 
the fire, leave all night in the bath, raise the wool, 
dissolve in "the bath 2 pounds sulphate of iron; 
dip the wool in, heat till 203° ; raise, give air, 
and continue till the required shade. 

45. Nut. 

It is done in two baths. 

1. Boil a little sumach or gall in water, dissolve 
in a half pound of sulphate of iron, refresh, pass 
the wool ; raise and wash. 

2. Pour in the bath a little Madder Sulphate of 
indigo and few quarts of a decoction of Yellow 
wood. 

Dip the wool in the bath, till the required shade 
is obtained, darken with Logwood. 



248 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

46. Other. 

In a bag put — 

\ lb. of Logwood, 
1 J " of Yellow Wood, 
\ " of Alum. 
Boil half an hour, throw in the bath half a pound 
of Madder, handle the wool, boil half an hour, 
raise ; dissolve in the bath some blue vitriol and 
a. little sulphate of indigo. Handle the wool till 
the required shade is obtained. 

47. Chestnut 

Use 100 pounds of Wool. 
Prepare the following bath — 
50 lbs. Madder, 
20 " Yellow Wood, 
30 " Woad. 
Boil from one to two hours, dissolve in the bath — 
25 lbs. Alum, 
6 " Tartar. 
Handle the wool in, boil three hours, raise, give 
air, and wash. 

Prepare a bath in boiling 60 pounds of Madder 
in water, handle the wool in, boil few minutes, 
raise, give air; wash and pass in blue vat till the 
required shade is obtained. 



RECEIPTS TO DYE. 249 

48. Other. 

Use 100 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil together for half an hour — 

12 lbs. of Sumach, 

6 " Yellow- wood, 

3 " Logwood. 
Add to it 

60 lbs. Sandal-wood, 

30 " Madder (the poorest kind). 
ITandle the wool in ; boil four hours ; raise ; give 
air. Dissolve in the bath some sulphate of iron, 
handle the wool in, and keep till the required 
shade is obtained. 

49. Egyptian Earth. 

Use 25 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil half an hour — 

\ lb. Logwood, 

J " Yellow- wood, 

1 " Sumach, 

1 " Madder, 

i " Sandal Wood. 
ITandle the wool, boil half an hour, raise, and 
wash. Darken with sulphate of iron. 



250 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING:. 

50. Brown Chestnut. 

Use 100 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil for three hours — 

6 lbs. Gall. 

12 " Sandal Wood, 

6 " Madder. 

4 " Brazil Wood, 

5i m Yellow Wood. 
Add to the bath — 

2 or 3 lbs. of Logwood, 

2 lbs. of Sulphate of iron. 
Leave the wool in the kettle for three quarters of 
an hour without boiling; raise and wash. 

51. Black. 

Use 16 lbs. of Wool scoured with bran. 
Mordant with — 

4 lbs. Cream Tartar, 

1 u Sulphate of Iron, 

\ " Sulphate of Copper. 
Boil two hours. 
In a kettle boil — 

2 lbs. Gall, 

1 " Sumach, 

4 pails Logwood. 
Take two or three dippers of this dissolution, mix 
it with warm water, and dje the wool in; raise; 
give air, and repeat two or three times, till the 
required shade is obtained. 



KECEII'TS TO DYE. 251 

52. Bluish Black, 

Operate the same as the above, only use less 
Sumach and Gall. 

53. Greenish Black. 

Operate as the above, but use a little more 
Sumach. 

54. Reddish Black. 

Operate as above, only you use a little more 
Gall, and you handle sometimes in a bath of Woad 
to give a greenish shade. 

Observation. 

To give a" reddish shade, you can put in the 
bath one or two handfuls of Madder. 

Before making the above operation, you can 
give a bottom of blue by the vat, it gives beauty 
and solidity to the black. 

55. Blue Vat. 

The vat is fixed in a little furnace so it can be 
heated when necessary. 

Take 20 gallons of water that you put in a 
kettle and boil, put in it 

8 pounds of Potash, 
10 quarts of Bran, and 
1 pound of Madder. 
Boil the all for about 2J to 3 hours. Take 4 
to 8 pounds (according to the strength of the vat) 



252 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

of indigo well washed with water. Eeduce it into 
a paste, put it in a sieve above the vat, and pour 
on it the bath of the kettle after the ebullition is 
stopped. If the indigo is not completely powdered 
it will stay on the sieve ; powder it anew and put 
it in the vat. 

Shut the vat hermetically, cover it with woollen 
sheets, and expose it to a gentle heat till the in- 
digo begins to work. 24 hours after you perceive 
on the top of the vat a kind of skim called flour 
of indigo. You have another bath half as strong 
as the one used the day before, make it boil and 
repeat the same operation ; stir well the vat and 
you can work 24 hours after. 

Use wool scoured with bran and without mor- 
dant. 

You put the wool in string, the same as w r hen 
3 7 ou pass in lime, handle the w r ool in the vat and 
stir without shaking the bottom ; raise ; the wool 
is green and turns blue to the air. If the color is 
not dark enough repeat the operation. 

After working all day if the vat has weakened, 
take out of the vat about the j of the liquid, heat 
it in a kettle in adding to it from 2 to 4 pounds 
of potash ; when the kettle is warm take some 
bran and throw some at the top of the liquid; skim 
well, add a handful of Madder, stir well, stop the 
ebullition, leave to settle and pour back in the 
vat. 

Dye again all day and repeat the operation till 






RECEIPTS TO DYE. 253 

the vat becomes too old, then a new one must be 
prepared. 

56. Blue with Carmine of Indigo. 

Use 20 pounds of wool scoured with carbonate. 
Mordant with — 

5 pounds of Alum, 
2J " " Cream Tartar. 
Boil 2 hours, raise and wash. 

Prepare a bath of carmine of indigo, with a hand- 
ful of alum, which permits the color to take more 
easily. 

Dye according to the shade. If the specimen 
is a bleu de France, add to the bath a little am- 
moniacal cochineal. 

57. False Blue. 

Use 200 lbs. of Wool. 
Boil 2J hours with — 
8J lbs. of Alum, 
8J ounces of Cream Tartar. 
Eaise and wash. In the bath add a few pails 
of a decoction of Logwood ; a sufficient quantity of 
Blue vitriol ; handle the wool in this bath and boil 
for J of an hour; raise; give air and wash. 



22 



254 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

58. Other. 

In a kettle boil 10 lbs. of Logwood ; after a short 
ebullition add — 

20 lbs. of Alum, 

4 " " Tartar, 

2 " " Blue Vitriol. 
For 200 lbs. of wool. Boil 3 hours ; raise; add 30 
lbs. of Logwood, boil one hour; handle the wool in, 
and boil J an hour ; raise ; add 10 lbs. of Logwood, 
boil 1 J hour ; handle the wool in ; boil J an hour, 
raise ; add a little blue vitriol ; handle the wool in 
and let J an hour near boiling ; raise and wash. 

59. Other. 

Take 60 lbs. of Wool. 
Give a sky blue on the vat, wash ; prepare a warm 
bath in which you boil 3 lbs. of Logwood, then 
add — \ 

4 lbs. of Alum, 

1 " " Tartar, 

4 " " Blue Vitriol. 
Handle the wool in, leave it 2 hours; raise; add 
8 lbs. of Logwood ; boil \ of an hour ; handle the 
wool in, boil 1 hour ; raise, give air, boil 1 hour ; 
the third handling is the same as the second, only 
add a little Blue vitriol ; handle the wool in with- 
out boiliug till the required shade is obtained; 
raise and wash well. 



RECEITTS TO DYE. 255 

60. Green. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with carbonate. 
Mordant with — 

5 lbs. of Alum, 
2J " " Cream Tartar. 
Boil. 

Prepare a bath with Yellow wood and Carmine 
of indigo. Dye in this bath till the required shade 
is obtained. 

61. Other. 

Use 20 lbs. of Wool scoured with carbonate. 
Mordant as above (60). 

Dye in a bath of Yellow- wood ; wash and pass 
in the blue Vat in beginning by the darker shades. 

62. Darkened Greens. 

Eeddish Green — Darken with Madder. 
Grayish Green — Darken with Cochineal and 
Madder or darkening solution. 

63. Osier Green. 

Use 20 pounds of wool scoured with bran. Mor- 
dant as above (60). 

Handle in the following bath ; Woad, Madder, 
Blue and darkening solution. 



256 COTTON AND WOOL DYEING. 

64. Gossling Green. 

Use 20 pounds of wool scoured with lime ; give 
a blue ground with the vat; mordant as above 
(60). 

Dye with Yellow wood and Archil. You can 
substitute archil by cochineal, but darken with the 
darkening solution. 

65. Isly Green. 

Use 20 pounds of wool scoured with lime, give 
a blue ground with vat. Mordant as above (60). 

Dye with Woad, Madder and darkening solu- 
tion. 

6Q. Other. 

Operate as the above, only you use Carmine of 
indigo and Yellow-wood. 

67. Dragoon Green. 

Give a blue ground with the vat, wash. Boil 
8 pounds of yellow-wood in a kettle with water, 
J an hour after add — 
4 pounds Alum, 
3. pound Tartar, 
1 " Sulphate of Indigo. 

Handle the wool in, boil 2 hours, raise, give 
air and wash. 

Boil in a fresh bath 4 pounds Logwood, handle 
the wool in, and leave it in without boiling till the 
required shade, raise and wash. 



KECEIPTS TO DYE. 257 

68. Saxony Green. 

Boil \ an hour a little quantity of Yellow-wood, 
add sulphate of indigo and dissolve 4 lbs. alum 
and 1 lb. of tartar. Handle the wool in, leave it 
to boil 2 hours, raise, give air and wash. 

Prepare a bath with 4 pounds Yellow-wood 
and a little Saxony blue; handle the wool in and 
leave without boiling till the required shade is 
obtained. 



22* 



INDEX. 



A 

PAGE 

Acids to brighten 137 

Alsacean dyes 59 

Alum mordant 59 

containing iron. Purification of ."..-. . 138 

Alumina, acetate 173 

Amaryllis 32 

mordant 25 

sandal 33, 34 

Amaranthyne red Ill 

Amaranthys good dye 239 

false 239 

American . 182 

Apparatus 25, 59 

Apple flower 57 

Apricot . . 241 

Archil 223 

Avanturine 72 

gray 99 

light 99,110 

gray 99 

yellow 110 

red 110 

yellow 72 



260 INDEX. 



B 



PAGE 

Black .... 31,32,116,119,122,217,224,250 

black 77, 209 

blue 133,251 

charcoal 149 

chemical 214 

for Ireland thread 136 

greenish 251 

middling 209 

mordant 221 

of extract 169 

ordinary 147, 175, 176 

pass to the 66 

reddish 251 

solid 148 

Bleaching 60, 231 

of cotton 172 

Blue 187, 201 

black 147,209 

chemical 114 

cloth 218 

carmine of indigo 253 

cupreous . . . . . . . 146 

de France 210, 215, 222 

deep 35, 36, 48 

dark French 80 

darkened 146 

dark cupreous 146 

false 129,253,254 

heaven 211 

heavy 211 

indigo 78 

light French 79, 120, 189 

middling 80,215 



INDEX. 261 

PAGE 

Blue, ordinary 214 

to the salt of tin mordant. Pass the . . 65 

vat 200, 251 

violet 143 

with potash. Dark 145 

Light 145 

Middling 145 

Prussiate 134 

Boilings 205 

alum 205 

chlorine 206 

madder 205 

woad yellow 206 

Bordering hlack 135 

Brightening of the vat hlues 62 

Bronze . . . .50, 72, 104, 128, 176, 223, 246, 247 

bistre 73 

dark .72,117 

olive 110 

Brown .... 124,125,179,181,182,198,217 

blue 151 

hlack with catechu 159 

olive 160 

canella light 166 

chestnut 250 

dark 151 

hair 168 

iron 168 

dark 159 

light 158 

dark 150 

madder 57 

middling 150 

dark 150 

more or less red 224 

Bruth, light 112 

ordinary . 112 



262 INDEX. 

\ 

PARE 

Bucket, great 30 

little 30 

Buff 48,121,191,213 

dark 149 

good dye 149 

Butter, light fresh 95, 128 

ordinary 95 



Canary bird 198 

Canella 104 

brown 52, 150 

Canella catechu. Dark 109 

, Yellow 109 

ordinary 71 

red 71 

Cambric 97 

Capucine 237, 238 

Carmelite 76, 109 

false dye 132 

good dye 127 

light yeUow . 110 

olive . 110 

yellow 77 

Carmine of indigo. Pass to the 66 

Carob tree 35 

Catechu 193 

coction of the 30 

dark 69 

ordinary 70 

pure 70 

to the salt of tin mordant. Pass the . . 65 

Chamois, dark 96 

light 96 



INDEX. , 263 

PAGE 

Chamois, orange 92 

pink 112 

yellow ........ 112 

Cherry wood 117 

Chestnut . . . 33, 50, 177,187, 211,215, 248,- 249 

catechu 73 

dark 74 

good dye 128 

light 130 

paliaca 75 

red . . . 124 

dark 74 

Chocolate 190 

Cistern, large 67 

small round 67 

Cochineal. Ammoniacal 221 — 229 

Compositions . 205 

cochineal . 207 

raw blue 206 

scarlet 207 

Copperas 173 

vat 29 

Coquelicot 225 

Cotton. Dyeing 25 

Corynthe, dark 178, 182 

Crimson 103,106,225,236 

false 237 

good dye 158 

yellow 103 



Darkening 210 

bath 229 

Dead leaves 98, 179, 246 



264: INDEX. 

PAGE 

Discharging ......... 61 

Dissolutions 220 

of tin 229 

for crimson 220 

for wool 230 

Dove 131 

Dyes, formulae of modern 69 

on wool from Paris ...... 205 

from the gobelins 227 

Dyeing on tissues, Mulhausen lustrings . . . 171 

woollen threads 205 



Earthen jars 30, 68 

Egyptian earth 249 



Fashion . . 216, 219 

Fire 242 

Forget-me-not 245 

Fly wing 124 



German dyes 137 

Giraffe, good dye 128 

Glass, small 68 

large . . . ' 68 

Gobelins. Dyes of tbe 227 



INDEX. 265 

PAGE 

Gold . • .242 

button 243 

Gray . . .54, 178, 179, 184, 185, 186, 187, 245, 246 

ash . . 45, 101 

ass 102 

American ........ 190 

brown ........ 44 

browse nut ....... 50 

blue 166 

middling 167 

dark . 167 

chocolate 165 

dark 165,197 

eye 102 

elk 155, 167 

green 131 

light - 166, 192 

mouse ........ 101 

moss 102 

nut 97, 99 

ordinary ........ 114 

pearl 101, 225 

rjeseda 100 

rose dark . . . . . . . .161 

light 160 

middling . . . . . . " . 160 

silver . . # . . .41,45,101,126,160 

with water . . . . . . .196 

water ........ 144 

yellow 97 

yellowish 102 

Grenat 194 

dark ......... 75 

ordinary ........ 76 

red 76 

rial ..... 34, i(>5, 118, 119 

2a 



2m INDEX 








PAGE 


Grenat, mordant . . - . . . . . .26 


yellow 








. 76 


Green 




113,: 


L78,l 


96, 199, 223, 255 


apple . 








. Ill, 164 


black . ... 








. 163 


canary 








. 152 


chromate . 








39, 83, 122 


dark . 








154, 161, 196 


darkened . 








. 255 


dark with quercitron 








. 81 


with, woad . 








83, 152 


dragoon 








. 256 


English 








38, 85 


false . 








. 163 


gossling 








. 256 


Isly . 








116, 117, 256 


light .... 






57, 


82, 132, 153, 161 


May . 








. - 47, 153 


middling . 








81, 153, 161 


with woad . 








. 82 


dark . 








. 154 


monster 








. 84 


mordant 








27, 174, 220 


myrtle 








. 80 


new solid . 








. 164 


olive . 








47, 48, 50, 51 


ordinary, woad . 








. 38 


osier . 








. 255 


parrot 








. Ill 


prnssiate . 








. 37 


quercitron . 








. 122, 191 


Saxony 








. 256 


spring 








38, 111 


steel . 








. 163 


tea 








. 151 


water . 








. 85 



INDEX. 267 

PAOE 

Green, white lake Ill 

zinc ......... 51 

Grizelin, dark . . . . . . . .156 

light 156 



Hind 243 



Indigo, distillated . . . . . . .26 

vat 36, 37, 63 

Iron, acetate 173 

mordant 26,59,137 

nitrate ........ 174 



Jar, small 69 

Jonquille 242 

Jujube .......... 240 



Lake. Preparation of the . . . . . 226, 230 

Lavalliere . . . 50 

cloak . . . ' . . . . . .134 

Leather ......... 131 



2H8 



INDKX. 



Lilac 

blue . 
dark . 

gray 
fashion 
gray . 

light 
middling 
good dye 
greafdye 
light . 

blue 
madder 
middling 
ordinary 
red 
violet 
with logwood 

orkanet 

potash 
Lime vat 

bucket 

Working 
Little wood bucket 



. 244 
46, 52, 88, 167 

85 
143 
169 
112 
142 
142 
245 
126 

87 
113 
126 

86 



39. 



87 

87 

144 

105 

143 

28 

28 

29 

29 



M 



Madder 212 

Meat color 130, 149, 238 

Merinos 220 

Mulhausen dyes 171 

Mordants . . .25, 26, 27, 49, 59, 137, 173, 220, 227 
ordinary ......... 230 



INDEX. 



269 



N 



PAC4E 

Nankin 41, 154 

Natural dark 156 

light 157 

Nigger-head color ........ 75 

Nut . . 99, 247, 248 

dark 100 

gray . . 97, 99 

yellow 99 



Oil turning .. 






. 




. 88 


Old shades . 






. 




. 123 


Olive . 






. 49, 


104, 


199, 223 


dark . 




. 50, 


104, 131, 


162, 


177, 217 


green . 










134, 223 


light . 










50, 161 


mordant 










. 49 


new . 










. 168 


Operations. Preliminary 






25,59 


Orange 40, 46, 47, 4S, 53, 55, 123, 140, 


188, 189, 


213, 


226, 241 


chamois .... 






. 97 


mordant .... 






. 27 


Ordinary mordant 










. 230 



Pail, ordinary 
Paliaca 

red 



103, 107, 131 
103, 107, 111 



270 INDEX. 

\ 

PAGE 

Parisian dyes 205 

Peach tree flower 142 

Pegs 68 

Physic 230 

for rose with wood 138 

Pomegranate flower 240 

Pot. Small ordinary 68 

Prussiate 37 

ordinary 37 

Purple . 245 



Receipt for dyeing 31 

Red .... 47, 53, 54, 55, 121, 189, 195, 199 

brown 48,49,53,142,224 

cherry ........ 141 

crimson 48 

dark 141 

false 124, 129 

gray 54 

grenat 140 

lake 224 

military 235 

mordant 137 

Polish 183 

purple 225 

sandal 89, 118 

solid 42,43 

with Brazil wood 88 

with madder 129, 235, 239 

with mordant 169 

with wood 42, 117, 141 

Reseda 108 

green ......... 109 



tNDEX. 27 L 

PAGE 

Reseda, olive 109 

Rhine water 134 

Rice straw color 91 

Rose 56, 130, 191, 195, 214, 238 

bright 157 

red 113,237 

saffron 42, 90 

with carmine 120, 157 

woad . 157 

wood 41, 89, 90, 120 

Rouen. Dyes of . 25 

Rust 41 

dark 96,155 

light 95, 155 

middling 155 

ordinary 96 



Saffron red 113 

yellow 214—240 

Scarlet, army 243 

deep 208 

false 237 

fine 236 

violaceous 237 

Scotch thread 135 

Scouring 227 

by bran 228 

carbonate 228 

lime 227 

soap 228 

Shades, old ' . .123 

Sizing 61, 202 



272 



INDEX. 







PAGE 


Sizing for borderings -. 




. 202 


light colors . 




. 203 


Stiffening for damp pieces. 


Black 


. 203 


for bordering 




. 135 


Irish thread . 




. 135 


Scotch thread 




58, 135 


white cotton . 




. 58 


Straw .... 




57, 154, 200 


lisht . 




. 92 


ordinary 







Tea 216 

Threads. Dyeing on 25 

Tin, solution of 60 

salt of 60 

pass to the dissolution of 65 

Tun to wash in lye 66 

with saffron . . . ... • .67 



Vat, blue 78,200 

copperas 29 

for cotton and wool ...... 44 

indigo ...... 36,37,63,69 

to bleach 68 

Vigonia 98 

Vinegar 181 > 182 

Vinous . 246 

Violet 144,194,211,218,223,244 

* brown 1^4 



INDEX, 



273 



Violet, dark 

great dye 
light . 
mordant 
middling 
ordinary 
solid . 

with madder 



good dye 



PAGE 

. 107, 111, 144 
. 132 
. 108 

26, 137, 174, 220 
. 108 
39, 102 
. 51 
. 125 



W 



Walnut 190 

White 138, 170, 231 

bluish 231 

lake . .112 

rose ' .231 

violaceous 232 

Wood. Coction of the ....... 30 



Yellow 



buff . 
bright 
Canary 
chrome 

mordant 
cupreous 
dark . 
fustic 
genista 
gray . 
Grecian 



55, 5G, 1! 



194, 213, 225, 253 
123 
130 
92 
40 
27 
164 
92, 123 
235 
115 
97,99 
40 



271 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Yellow gold 192 

lemon t ...... 46 

middling 139 

mordant 173 

pale 139 

quercitron . . . . . . . .134 

turmeric 114, 129 

woad 212 

and turmeric 213 

wood 213 

with acid 234 

yellow-wood 234 




DIRECTED BY 



Prof. H. DUSSATJCE, Chemist, 

Lately from the Laboratories of the French Government, viz., the Mining, 

the Botanical Garden, the Imperial Mamifacttire of the Gobelins, and 

the Conservatoire Imperial of Arts and Manufactures, etc. 



Advice and Consultations on Chemistry as applied to Arts and Manufac- 
tures, Agriculture, Metallurgy, Mining Surveys, Plans of Factories, Draw- 
ings of Apparatus, Chemical Manufactures, Analysis of Ores, Manures, 
Guanos, Mineral Waters, Soils, Plants, Greases, Oils, Soaps, Tallows, and 
Commercial Essays in General. 

Prof. H. Dussatjce will undertake experiments on any industrial subject, 
and charge nothing except for the actual expenses incurred. 

By his long study in the laboratories of the French government, Prof. H. 
Dussatjce has in his possession plans and drawings of Factories and Appa- 
ratus, and would send them to any person desiring their use. He will also 
give advice, information, recipes, etc. etc., on the following Arts: — 

Chemical Products — Metallurgy — Galvanoplasty — Electro-Plating and 
Gilding — Coal and Charcoal — Daguerreotype Photography — Lighting and 
Heating by Gas — White and Color of Zinc and Lead — Glass — Brick — Pottery 
—China— Limes — Plasters — Matches — Mineral, Vegetable, and Animal Oils 
— Saltpetre and Powder — Wines, Beers, Ciders, and Liquors in general — Dis- 
tillation — Starch — Sugar — Paper — Dyeing and Calico Printing — Indigo — 
Inks — Leathers — Gelatine — India Rubber and Gutta-Percha — Varnishes — 
Vegetable Colors — Perfumery — Agriculture — Animal Black— Natural and Ar- 
tificial Manures — Candles and Soap of every description, &c. &c. 

For consultation, advice, information, recipes, formulas, drawings, plans, 
analyses, commercial essays, experiments, &c, 

Address Prof. H. DUSSAUCE, Chemist, 

New Lebanon, N. Y. 



EEFERENCES. 



Dr. H. Townsend, Albany. 
Dr. A. S. Heath, 647 Rroadway, N. Y. 
Dr. D. E. Coutaret, 132 Thompson, N. Y. 
Prof, II. Cleveland, Cincinnati, Ohio. 
Ch. Lassalle, Ed. of the Courrier des Etats 

Unis, Walker Street, N. Y. 
B. Reis, 72 Beaver Street. 
J. C. null Sous, 32 Park Row, N. Y. 



H. M. Piatt, 21 Maiden Lane, N. Y. 

B. Darling, Providence, R. I. 
Ph. Tompert, Louisville, Ky. 

A. Rapdlye, 68 Cedai Strent, N. Y. 
A. H. Heath, 647 Broadway, N. Y. 

C. Coyle, Louisville, Ky. 

F. Einerich, 27 Maiden Lane, N. Y. 
Tliaiu & McKeone, Philadelphia, etc. etc. 



GIFFORD, SHERMAN & INNIS, 



IMPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS OF 



II $t-& 




ZDZFLTJO-S, cfcc 7 

Office of the Po'keepsie Dye-Wood "Works, 

No. 120 WILLIAM STREET, 

531S^7 ¥®EBSL 



JTAIMEXSSi Xi. JMLOFL&c^JST 


cfe CO., 




47 Fulton Street, New York, 






IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IX 




Indigo, 

Cochineal, 

Soda Ash, 

Sal Soda, 

Sal Ammoniac, 

Alum, 

Argols, 


Cream Tartar, Cudbear, 
Tartaric Acid, Cutch, 
Blue Vitriol, Sumac, 
Bichromate, Oxalic Acid, 
Bleaching Powders, Gum Arabic, 
Brimstone, Gum Substitute, 
Borax, Glue, 

MANUFACTURERS OP 


Madder, 
Ext. Logwood, 
Sugar Lead, 
Terra Japonica, 
Safflower, 
Aniline Colors, 
&c. &c. 


Logwood, 
Fustic, 
Cam Wood, 
Red Sanders, 


Ebony, Aqua-fortis, 
Kic Wood, Nitric Acid, 
Hyper Xic, &c. &c. Muriatic Acid, 
Oil Vitriol, Muriate Tin, 


Tin Crystals, 
Nitrate Iron, 
Extract Indigo, 
Aqua Ammonia, &c. 



THE INDUSTRIAL CHEMIST, 

EDITED BY 

PROFESSOK H. DUSSATJCE, 

IS PUBLISHED BY 

249 Pearl Street, New York, 
AT ONE DOl^AR AND FIFTY CENTS PER ANNUM. 



|)rariical anfo Scientific ^wh, 

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American Miller and Millwright's Assistant: 

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Among the contents are : — Linear Drawing, Definitions and Problems. 
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PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 

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wooden model or pattern of a coupling, Elementary applications- 
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The Intersection and Development of Surfaces, with Ap- 
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XV. Application of the helix — the construction of a staircase, Plate 

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XVII. Rules and Practical Data — Steam, Unity of heat, Heating surface, 
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The Studt and Construction of Toothed Gear. — Involute, cy- 
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XVIII. Cycloid, Fig. 2, Plate XVIII. External epicycloid, described 
by a circle rolling about a fixed circle inside it, Fig. 3, Plate XIX. 
Internal epicycloid, Fig. 2, Plate XIX. Delineation of a rack and 
pinion in gear, Fig. 4, Plate XVIII. Gearing of a worm with a worm- 
wheel, Figs. 5 and 6, Plate XVIII. Cylindrical or Spur Gearing, Plate 

XIX. Practical delineation of a couple of Spur-wheels, Plate XX. 
The Delineation and Construction of Wooden Patterns for Toothed Wheels, 
Plate XXI. Rules and Practical Data— Toothed gearing. Angular and 
circumferential velocity of wheels. Dimensions of gearing, Thickness 
of the teeth, Pitch of the teeth, Dimensions of the web, Xumber and 
dimensions of the arms, wooden patterns. 

Continuation of the Study of Toothed Gear.— Design for a 
pair of bevel-wheels in gear, Plate XXII. Construction of wooden 
patterna for a pair of bevel-wheels, Plate XXIII. Involute and 
Helical Teeth, Plate XXIV. Contrivances for obtaining Differential 
Movements — The delineation of eccentrics and cams, Plate XXV. Rules 
and Practical Data — Mechanical work of effect, The simple machines, 
Centre of gravity, On estimating the power of prime movers, Calcu- 
lation for the brake, The fall of bodies, Momentum, Central forces. 

Elementary Principles of Shadows. — Shadou-s of Prisms, Pyra- 
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Continuation of the Study of Shadows, Plate XXVIII. Tuscan Order, 
Plate XXIX. Rules and Practical Data — Pumps, Hydrostatic principles, 
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Hydrostatical calculations and data— discharge of water through dif- 
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of water through rectangular orifices of narrow edges, Calculation of 
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width of an overshot outlet, To determine the depth of the outlet, 
Outlet with a spout or duct. 

Application of Shadows to Toothed Gear, Plate XXX. Ap- 
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a Boiler and its Furnace, Plate XXXII. Shading in Black — Shading in 
Colors, Plate XXXIII. 

The Cutting and Shaping of Masonry, Plate XXXIV. Rules 
nad Practical Data — Hydraulic motors, Undershot water wheels, with 
plane floats and a circular channel, Width, Diameter, Velocity, Num- 
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Overshot water wheels. Water wheels with radial floats, Water wheel 
with curved buckets, Turbines. Remarks on Machine Tools. 
2 



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The Study of Machinery and Sketching.— Various applications 
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Design for a water wheel, Sketch of a water wheel ; Overshot Water 
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Rules and Practical Data — Steam engines : Low-pressure condensing 
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Oblique Projections. — Application of rules to the delineation of 
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Parallel Perspective.— Principles and applications, Plate XLII. 

True Perspective.— Elementary principles, Plate XLIII. Appli- 
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Examples of Finished Drawings of Machinery.— Plate A, 
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and Cast Iron; the Management and Manipulation of Metals and 
Alloys, Melting and Mixing ; the Management of Furnaces, Casting 
and Founding with Metallic Moulds, Joining and Working Sheet Metal ; 
Peculiarities of the different Tools employed ; Processes dependent on 
the ductility of Metals ; Wire Drawing, Drawing Metal Tubes, Solder- 
ing ; The use of the Blowpipe, and every other known Metal Worker's 
Tool. 

Byrne, The Practical Model Calculator, 

For the Engineer, Machinist, Manufacturer of Engine 
"Work, Naval Architect, Miner, and Millwright. By 
Oliver Byrne, Compiler and Editor of the Dictionary of 
Machines, Mechanics, Engine Work and Engineering, and 
Author of various Mathematical and Mechanical Works. 
Illustrated by numerous engravings. Complete in one 
large volume, octavo, of nearly six hundred pages, ..$3. 50 

The principal objects of this work are : to establish model calcula- 
tions to guide practical men and students ; to illustrate every practical 
rule and principle by numerical calculations, systematically arranged ; 
to give information and data indispensable to those for whom it is in- 
tended, thus surpassing in value any other book of its character ; to 
economize the labor of the practical man, and to render his every-day 
calculations easy and comprehensive. It will be found to be one of 
the most complete and valuable practical books ever published. 

Cabinetmaker's and Upholsterer's Companion, 

Comprising the Rudiments and Principles of Cabinet- 
making and Upholstery, with Familiar Instructions, il- 
lustrated by Examples for attaining a proficiency in the 
Art of Drawing, as applicable to Cabinet Work ; the 
processes' of Veneering, Inlaying, and Buhl Work; the 
Art of Dyeing and Staining Wood, Bone, Tortoise Shell, 
etc. Directions for Lackering, Japanning, and Varnish- 
ing ; to make French Polish ; to prepare the best Glues, 
Cements, and Compositions, and a number of Receipts 
particularly useful for Workmen generally. By J. Stokes. 
In one volume, 12mo. With Illustrations, 75 

" A large amount of practical information, of great service to all 
concerned in those branches of business." — Ohio State Journal. 

Campion, A Practical Treatise on Mechanical 
Engineering; 

Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging Tools, 
Workshop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manu- 
facture of Steam Engine, etc., etc. Illustrated with 28 
plates of Boilers, Steam Engines, Workshop Machinery, 
b" 



PUBLISHED BY HENKY CAREY BAIRD. 

etc., and 91 Wood Engravings ; with an Appendix on the 
Analysis of Iron and Iron Ores. By Francis Campion, 
C. E., President of the Civil and Mechanical Engineers' 
Society, etc. (In press.) 



Celnart. The Perfumer. 



From the French of Madame Celnart ; with additions hy 
Professor H. Bussauce. 8vo. (In press.) 

Colburn. The Locomotive Engine ; 

Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Esti- 
mating its Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its 
Construction and Management. By Zerah Colburn. Il- 
lustrated. A new edition. 12mo, 75 

"It is the most practical and generally useful work on the Steam. 
Engine that we have seen."— Boston Traveler." 

Daguerreotypist and Photographer's Companion, 

12mo., cloth, $1.00 

Distiller (The Complete Practical). 

By M. Lafayette Byrn, M.D. With Illustrations. 12mo. 

$1.00 

" So simplified, that it is adapted not only to the use of extensive 
Distillers, but for every farmer, or others who may want to engage in 
Distilling." — Banner of the Union. 

Bussauce, Practical Treatise 

On the Fabrication of Matches, Gun Cotton, and Fulmi- 
nating Powders. By Prof. H. Dussauce. (In press.) 

CONTENTS.— Phosphorus. —History of Phosphorus; Physical 
Properties ; Chemical Properties ; Natural State ; Preparation of 
White Phosphorus ; Amorphous Phosphorus, and Benoxide of Lead. 
Hatches.— Preparation of Wooden Matches ; Matches inflammable by 
rubbing, without noise ; Common Lucifer Matches : Matches without 
Phosphorus ; Candle Matches ; Matches with Amorphous Phospho- 
rus ; Matches and Rubbers without Phosphorus. Gun Cotton. — Proper- 
ties ; Preparation ; Paper Powder ; use of Cotton and Paper Powders 
for Fulminating Primers, etc.; Preparation of Fulminating Primers, 
etc., etc. 

Dussauce, Chemical Receipt Book: 

A General Formulary for the Fabrication of Leading 
Chemicals, and their Application to the Arts, Manufac- 
tures, Metallurgy, and Agricu ture. By Prof. II. Dus- 
sauce. (In press.) 

7 



PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS. 

DYELTC, CALICO PKINTIM, COLOBS, COTTON SPDf- 
NltfG, AND WOOLEN MANUrACTUEE. 

Baird, The American Cotton Spinner, and 
Manager's and Carder's Guide: 

A Practical Treatise on Cotton Spinning ; giving the Di- 
mensions and Speed of Machinery, Draught and Twist 
Calculations, etc.; with Notices of recent Improvements : 
together with Rules and Examples for making changes 
in the sizes and numbers of Roving and Yarn. Com- 
piled from the papers of the late Robert H. Baird. 
12mo $1.25 

Capron De Dole, Dussauce, Blues and Car- 
mines of Indigo i 

A Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of every Commer- 
cial Product derived from Indigo. By Felicien Capron 
de Dole. Translated, with important additions, by Pro- 
fessor H. Dussauce. 12mo $2.50 

Chemistry Applied to Dyeing, 

By James Napier, F. C. S. Illustrated. 12mo $2.00 

CONTENTS.— General Properties of Matter.— Heat, Light, Ele- 
ments of Matter, Chemical Affinity. yon-Metallic Substances. — Oxygen, 
Hydrogen, Nitrogen, Chlorine, Sulphur, Selenium, Phosphorus, Iodine, 
Bromine, Fluorine, Silicum, Boron, Carbon. Metallic Substances. — 
General Properties of Metals, Potassium, Sodium, Lithium, Soap, 
Barium. Strontium, Calcium, Magnesium, Alminum. Manganese, Iron, 
Cobalt, Nickel, Zinc, Cadmium. Copper, Lead, Bismuth, Tin, Titanium, 
Chromium, Vanadium, Tungstenum or Wolfram, Molybdenum, Tella- 
rium, Arsenic, Antimony, Uranium, Cerium. Mercury, Silver, Gold, 
Platinum, Palladium, Iridium, Osmium, Rhodium, Lanthanium. Mor- 
dant*. — Red Spirits, Barwood Spirits, Plumb Spirits, Yellow Spirits, 
Nitrate of Iron, Acetate of Alumina, Black Iron Liquor, Iron and Tin 
for Royal Blues, Acetate of Copper. Vegetable Matters used in Dyeing. — 
Galls, Sumach, Catechu, Indigo. Logwood, Brazil-woods, Sandal-wood, 
Barwood, Camwood, Fustic, Young Fustic, Bark or Quercitron. Fla- 
vine. Weld or Wold, Turmeric, Persian Berries, Saffiower, Madder, 
Munjeet, Annota, Alkanet Root, Archil. Proposed Seio Vegetable 
Dyes. — Sooranjee, Carajuru, Wongshy, Aloes, Pittacal. Barbary Root. 
Animal Matters used £?i Dyeing. — Cochineal, Lake or Lac, Kerms. 

This will be found one of the most valuable books on the subject of 
dyeing, ever published in this country. 

Dussauce. Treatise on the Coloring Matters 
Derived from Coal Tar; 

Their Practical Application in Dyeing Cotton, "Wool, and 



PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 

Silk ; the Principles of the Art of Dyeing and of the Dis- 
tillation of Coal Tar ; with a Description of the most Im- 
portant New Dyes now in use. By Professor H. Dus- 
sauce, Chemist. 12mo $2.50 

CONTENTS.— Historical Notice of the Art of Dyeing— Chemical 
Principles of the Art of Dyeing — Preliminary Preparation of Stuff's — 
Mordants— Dyeing— On the Coloring Matters produced by Coal Tar — 
Distillation of Coal Tar — History of Aniline — Properties of Aniline — 
Preparation of Aniline directly from Coal Tar— Artificial Preparation 
of Aniline — Preparation of Benzole— Properties of Benzole— Prepara- 
tion of Nitro-Benzole — Transformation of Nitro-Benzole into Aniline, 
by means of Sulphide of Ammonium ; by Nascent Hydrogen ; by Ace- 
tate of Iron ; and by Arsenite of Potash — Properties of the Bi-Nitro- 
Benzole — Aniline Purple — Violine — Roseine — Emeraldine — Bleu de 
Paris— Futschine, or Magenta— Coloring Matters obtained by other 
bases from Coal Tar — Nitroso-Phenyline — Di Nitro-Aniline — Nitro- 
Phenyline— Picric Acid— Rosolic Acid— Quinoline— Napthaline Colors 
— Chloroxynaphthalic and Perchloroxynapthalic Acids — Carminaph- 
tha — Ninaphthalamine — Nitrosonaphthaline — Naphthamein — Tar Red 
— Azuline— Application of Coal Tar Colors to the Art of Dyeing and 
Calico Printing — Action of Light on Coloring Matters from Coal Tar 
— Latest Improvements in the Art of Dyeing— Chrysammic Acid— Mo- 
lybdic and Picric Acids — Extract of Madder — Theory of the Fixation 
of Coloring Matters in Dyeing and Printing — Principles of the Action 
of the most important Mordants— Aluminous Mordants— Ferruginous 
Mordants — Stanniferous Mordants — Artificial Alizarin — Metallic Hy- 
posulphites as Mordants— Dyer's Soap— Preparation of Indigo for Dye- 
ing and Printing— Relative Value of Indigo— Chinese Green Murexide. 

Dyer and Color-maker's Companion: 

Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making 
Colors, on the most approved principles, for all the 
various styles and fabrics now in existence ; with the 
Scouring Process, and plain Directions for Preparing, 
Washing-off, and Finishing the Goods. Second edition. 
In one volume, 12mo 75 



French Dyer, (The) : 



Comprising the Art of Dyeing in Woolen, Silk, Cotton, 
etc., etc. By M. M. RifFault, Vernaud, De Fontenelle, 
Thillaye, and Mallepeyre. (In press.) 

Love, The Art of Dyeing, Cleaning, Scouring, 
and Finishing, 

On the Most Approved English and French Methods ; 
being Practical Instructions in Dyeing Silks, Woolens 
and Cottons, Feathers, Chips, Straw, etc., Scouring and 
Cleaning Bed and Window Curtains, Carpets, Rugs, etc., 
French and English Cleaning, any Color or Fabric of 
Silk, Satin, or Damask. By Thomas Love, a working 

Dyer and Scourer. In one volume, 12mo 63.00 

9 



PBACTICAIi AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 

O'Neill, Chemistry of Calico Printing, Dye- 
ing, and Bleaching ; 

Including Silken, Woolen, and Mixed Goods ; Practical 
and Theoretical. By Charles O'Neill. (In press.) 

O'JNfei 7 !, A Dictionary of Calico Printing and 
Dyeing, 

By Charles O'Neill. {In press.) 

Scott, The Practical Cotton-spinner and Man- 
ufacturer ; 

Or, The Manager and Overlooker's Companion. This 
-work contains a Comprehensive System of Calculations 
for Mill Gearing and Machinery, from the first Moving 
Power, through the different processes of Carding, Draw- 
ing, Slabbing, Roving, Spinning, and Weaving, adapted 
to American "Machinery, Practice and Usages. Compen- 
dious Tables of Yarns and Reeds are added. Illustrated 
by large Working-Drawings of the most approved Ameri- 
can Cotton Machinery. Complete in one volume, oc- 
tavo $3.50 

This edition of Scott's Cotton-Spinner, by Oliver Byrne, is designed 
for the American Operative. It will be fousid intensely practical, and 
will be of the greatest possible value to the Manager, Overseer, and 
Workman. 

Sellers, The Color-mixer, 

By John Sellers, an Experienced Practical Workman. 
To which is added a Catechism of Chemistry. In one 
volume, 12mo. (In press.) 

Smith, . The Dyer's Instructor; 

Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing 
Silk, Cotton, Wool and Worsted, and Woolen Goods, as 
Single and Two-colored Damasks, Moreens, Camlets, 
Lastings, Shot Cobourgs, Silk Striped Orleans, Plain Or- 
leans, from White and Colored Warps, Merinos, Woolens, 
Yarns, etc.; containing nearly eight hundred Receipts. 
To which is added a Treatise on the Art of Padding, and 
the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins and Handkerchiefs, 
and the various Mordants and Colors for the different 
10 



PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 



style* of swell work. By David Smith, Pattern Dyer. 
A new edition, in one volume, 12mo $3.00 

CONTENTS.— Wool Dyeing, 60 receipts— Cotton Dyeing, 68 re- 
ceipts — Silk Dyeing, 60 receipts — Woolen Yarn Dyeing, 59 receipts- 
Worsted Yarn Dyeing, 51 receipts — Woolen Dyeing, 52 receipts — Da- 
mask Dyeing, 40 receipts— Moreen Dyeing, 38 receipts — Two-Colored 
Dmntsk Dyeing, 21 receipts — Camlet Dyeing, 23 receipts — Lasting Dye- 
ing, 23 receipts— Shot Cobourg Dyeing, 18 receipts— Silk Striped Or- 
leans, from Black, White, and Colored Warps, 23 receipts— Colored 
Orleans, from Black Warps, 15 receipts — ColoTed Orleans and Co- 
bourgs, from White Warps, 27 receipts— Colored Merinos, 41 receipts 
— Woolen Shawl Dyeing, 15 receipts — Padding, 42 receipts — Silk Warp, 
Skein, and Handkerchief Printing, 62 receipts — Nature and Use of Dye- 
wares, including Alum, Annotta, Archil, Ammonia, Argol, Super 
Argol, Camwood, Catechu, Cochineal, Chrome, or Bichromate of Pot- 
ash, Cudbear, Chemic, or Sulphate of Indigo, French Berry, or Persian 
Berry, Fustic or Young Fustic, Galls, Indigo, Kermes or Lac Dye, 
Logwood, Madder, Nitric Acid or Aqua Fortis, Nitrates, Oxalic Tin. 
Peachwood, Prussiate of Potash, Quercitron Bark, Safflower, Saun- 
ders or Red Sandal, Sapan Wood, Sumach, Turmeric, Examination of 
Water by Tests, etc., etc. 

Touslain. A Practical Treatise on the Woolen 
Manufacture, 

From the French of M. Toustain. (In press.) 

Ulrich, Dussauce, A Complete Treatise 

On the Art of Dyeing Cotton and Wool, as practised in 
Paris, Rouen, Mulhouse and Germany. From the French 
of M. Louis Ulrich, a Practical Dyer in the principal 
Manufactories of Paris, Rouen, Mulhouse, etc., etc. ; to 
which are added the most important Receipts for Dyeing 
Wool, as practised in the Manufacture Imperiale des 
Gobelins, Paris. By Professor H. Dussauce. 12mo..$3.00 
CONTENTS.— 

Rouen Dyes, 106 Receipts. 

Alsace " 235 " 

German " 109 " 

Mulhouse " 72 " 

Parisian " 66 " 

Gobelins " 100 " 
In all nearly 700 Receipts. 



Easton, A Practical Treatise on Street or 
Horse-power Railways; 

Their Location, Construction and Management ; with 
general Plans and Rules for their Organization and Ope- 
ration ; together with Examinations as to their Compara- 



31 



FBACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 

tive Advantages over the Omnibus System, and Inquiries 
as to their Value for Investment ; including Copies of 
Municipal Ordinances relating thereto. By Alexander 
Easton, C. E. Illustrated by twenty-three plates, 8vo., 
cloth * $2.00 

Examinations of Drugs, Medicines, Chemicals, 
etc, 

As to their Purity and Adulterations. By C. H. Peirce, 
M. D. 12mo., cloth $2.00 

Fisher's Photogenic Manipulation, 

16mo., cloth 62 

Gas and Ventilation; 

A Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. By E. E. 
Perkins.. 12mo., cloth 75 

Gilbait A Practical Treatise on Banking. 

By James William Gilbart, F. R. S. A new enlarged and 
improved edition. Edited by J. Smith Homans, editor 
of " Banker's Magazine." To which is added "Money," 
by H. C. Carey. 8vo $3.00 

Gregory's Mathematics for Practical Men; 

Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Me- 
chanics and Civil Engineers. 8vo., plates,, cloth. ..$1.50 

Hardwich, A Manual of Photographic Chem- 
istry; 

Including the practice of the Collodion Process. By J. 
F. Hardwich. (In press.) 

Hay. The Interior Decorator; 

The Laws of Harmonious Coloring adapted to Interior 
Decorations ; with a Practical Treatise on House Paint- 
ing. By D. R. Hay, House Painter and Decorator. -Il- 
lustrated by a Diagram of the Primary, Secondary and 
Tertiary Colors. 12mo. (In press.) 
12 



PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 

Inventor's Guide — Patent Office and Patent 
Laws : 

Or, a Guide to Inventors, and a Book of Reference for 
Judges, Lawyers, Magistrates, and others. By J. G. 
Moore. 12ino., cloth $1.00 

Jervis. Railway Property. A Treatise 

Ox the Construction and Management of Railways ; de- 
signed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, 
to the holders of this class of property ; as well as Rail- 
way Managers, Officers and Agents. By John B. Jervis, 
late Chief Engineer of the Hudson River Railroad, Cro- 
ton Aqueduct, etc. One volume, 12mo., cloth $1.50 

CONTENTS. — Preface — Introduction. Construction. — Introduc- 
tory—Land and Land Damages— Location of Line— Method of Business 
— Grading — Bridges and Culverts — Road Crossings — Ballasting Track — 
Cross Sleepers— Chairs and Spikes— Rails— Station Buildings— Loco- 
motives, Coaches and Cars. Operating. — Introductory — Freight — Pas- 
sengers—Engine Drivers— Repairs to Track— Repairs of Machinery- 
Civil Engineer — Superintendent — Supplies of Material — Receipts — Dis- 
bursements — Statistics — Running Trains — Competition — Financial 
Management — General Remarks. 

Johnson. - The Coal Trade of British America; 

With Researches on the Characters and Practical Values 
of American and Foreign Coals. By Walter R. Johnson, 
Civil and Mining Engineer and Chemist. 8vo 82.00 

This volume contains the results of the experiments made for the 
Navy Department, upon which their Coal contracts are now based. 

Johnston. Instructions for the Analysis of 
Soils, Limestones and Manures. 

By J. F. W. Johnston. 12mo 3S 

Larkin. The Practical Brass and Iron Found- 
er's Guide; 

A Concise Treatise on the Art of Brass Founding, Mould- 
ing, etc. By James Larkin. 12mo., cloth $1.00 

Leslie's (Miss) Complete Cookery; 

Directions for Gookery in its Various Branches. By Miss 
Leslie. 58th thousand. Thoroughly revised ; with the 
addition of New Receipts. In one volume, 12mo., half 

hound, or in sheep $1.00 

13 



PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 

Leslie's (Miss) Ladies' House Book; 

A Manual of Domestic Economy. 20th revised edition. 
12mo., sheep 81.00 

Leslie's (Miss) Two Hundred .Receipts in 
French Cookery, 

Cloth, 12mo 25 

Lieber. Assurer's Guide; 

Or, Practical Directions to Assayers, Miners and Smelters, 
for the Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, 
of the Ores of all the principal Metals, and of Gold and 
Silver Coins and Alloys. By Oscar M. Lieber, late Geolo- 
gist to the State of Mississippi. 12mo. With illustra- 
tions 75 

" Among the indispensable works for this purpose, is this little 
guide."— Artizan. 

Lowig. Principles of Organic and Physiologi- 
cal Chemistry. 

By Dr. Carl Lowig, Doctor of Medicine and Philosophy ; 
Ordinary Professor of Chemistry in the University of 
Zurich ; Author of " Chemie des Organischen Verbindun 
gen." Translated by Daniel Breed, M. D., of the U. S. 
Patent Office ; late of the Laboratory of Liebig and Lowig. 
8vo., sheep $3.50 

Marble Worker's Manual; 

Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in 
general, their Cutting, Working and Polishing, Veneer- 
ing, etc., etc. 12mo., cloth $1.00 

Miles, A Plain Treatise on Horse-shoeing. 

With Illustrations. By William Miles, Author of "The 
Horse's Foot." 75 

Morfit. The Arts of Tanning, Currying and 
Leather Dressing. 

Theoretically and Practically Considered in all their De- 
tails ; being a Full and Comprehensive Treatise on the 
14 



PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 

Manufacture of the Various Kinds of Leather. Illus- 
trated by over two hundred Engravings. Edited from the 
French of De Fontenelle and Malapeyere. With nu- 
merous Emendations and Additions, by Campbell Morfit, 
Practical and Analytical Chemist. Complete in one vol- 
ume, octavo $10.00 

This important Treatise will be found to cover the whole field in 
the moBt masterly manner, and it is believed that in no other branch 
of applied science could more signal service be rendered to American 
Manufactures. 

The publisher is not aware that in any other work heretofore issued 
in this country, more space has been devoted to this subject than a 
single chapter ; and in offering this volume to so large and intelligent 
a class as American Tanners and Leather Dressers, he feels confident 
of their substantial support and encouragement. 

CONTENTS.— Introduction— Dignity of Labor— Tan and Tannin 
—Gallic Acid— Extractive- Tanning Materials— Oak Barks— Barking 
of Trees— Method of Estimating the Tanning Power of Astringent 
Substances — Tan — The Structure and Composition of Skin — Different 
Kinds of Skin suitable for Tanning— Preliminary Treatment of Skins 
— Tanning Process— Improved Processes— Vauquelin's Process— Ac- 
celerating Processes — Keasley's, Trumbull's, Hibbard'6, and Leprieur's 
Processes— Tanning with Extract of Oak-Bark— Hemlock Tanning— 
With Myrtle Plant— English Harness Leather— Calf Skins— Goat and 
Sheep Skins— Horse Hides— Buck. Wolf and Dog Skins— Buffalo, or 
11 Grecian" Leather — Russia Leather — Red Skins — Wallachia Leather 
—Mineral Tanning— Texture and Quality of Leather, and the means 
of Discovering its Defects — Tawing — Hungary Leather — Oiled Leather 
—Tanning as practised by the Mongol Tartars— Shagreen— Parchment 
—Leather Bottles— Tanning of Cordage and Sail Cloth— Glazed or 
" Patent" Leather— Helverson's Process for Rendering Hides Hard 
and Transparent— Currying— Currying of Calf Skins— Currying of 
Goat Skins— Red Leather— Fair Leather— Water Proof Dressing — 
Perkins' Machine for Pommelling and Graining Leather— Splitting, 
Shaving, Fleshing and Cleansing Machines— Embossing of Leather — 
Gut Dressing. 

Morfit, A Treatise on Chemistry 

Applied to the Manufacture of Soap and Candles ; being 
a Thorough Exposition, in all their Minutiae, of the prin- 
ciples and Practice of the Trade, based upon the most 
recent Discoveries in Science and Art. By Campbell 
Morfit, Professor of Analytical and Applied Chemistry in 
the University of Maryland. A new and improved edi- 
tion. Illustrated with 260 Engravings on Wood. Com- 
plete in one volume, large 8vo $6.00 

CONTENTS.— CHAPTER I. The History of the Art and its Rela- 
tions to Science— II. Chemical Combination— III. Alkalies and Alka- 
line Earths— IV. Alkalimentary— V. Acids— VI. Origin and Composi- 
tion of Fatty Matters— VII. Saponifiable Fats— Vegetable Fats— Ani- 
mal Fats — Waxes — VIII. Action of Heat and Mineral Acids of Fatty 
Matters— IX. Volatile or Essential Oils, and Resins— X. The Proxi- 
mate Principles of Fats— Their Composition and Properties— Basic 
Constituents of Fats— XL Theory of Saponification— XII. Utensila 
Requisite for a Soap Factory— XIII. Preparatory Manipulations in 
the Process of Making Soap— Preparation of the Lyea— XIV. Hard 

15 



PBACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 

Soaps— XV. Soft Soaps— XVI. Soaps by the Cold Process— XVII. Sili- 
cated Soaps— XVIII. Toilet Soaps— XIX. Patent Soaps— XX. Fraud 
and Adulterations in the Manufacture of Soap — XXI. Candles — XXII. 
Illumination— XXIII. Philosophy of Flame— XXIV. Raw Material 
for Candles— Purification and Bleaching of Suet — XXV. Wicks— XX VI. 
Dipped Candles— XXVII. Moulded Candles— XXVIII. Stearin Candles 
— XXIX. Stearic Acid Candles—" Star" or " Adamantine" Candles— 
Saponification by Lime — Saponification by Lime and Sulphurous Acid 
—Saponification by Sulphuric Acid— Saponification by the combined 
action of Heat, Pressure and Steam— XXX. Spermaceti Candles— 
XXXI. Wax Candles— XXXII. Composite Candles— XXXIII. Paraffin 
—XXXIV. Patent Candles— XXXV. Hydrometers and Thermometers. 

Mortimer, Pyrotechnist's Companion; 

Or, a Familiar System of Fire-works. By Gr. W. Morti- 
mer. Illustrated by numerous Engravings. 12mo... 75 

Napier, Manual of Electro-Metallurgy ; 

Including the Application of the Art to Manufacturing 
Processes. By James Napier. From the second London 
edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated by Engrav- 
ings. In one volume, 12mo $1.50 

Napier's Electro-Metallurgy is generally regarded as the very best 
Practical Treatise on the Subject in the English Language. 

CONTENTS.— History of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy— Descrip- 
tion of Galvanic Batteries, and their respectii'e Peculiarities— Elec- 
trotype Processes — Miscellaneous Applications of the Process of Coat- 
ing with Copper— Bronzing — Decomposition of Metals upon one 
another — Electro-Plating — Electro-Gilding — Results of Experiments 
on the Deposition of other Metals as Coatings, Theoretical Observa- 
tions. 

Norris's Hand-book for Locomotive Engineers 
and Machinists; 

Comprising the Calculations for Constructing Locomo- 
tives, Manner of setting Valves, etc., etc. By Septimus 
Korris, Civil and Mechanical Engineer. In one volume, 
12mo., with Illustrations $1.50 

" With pleasure do we meet with such a work as Messrs. Norria 
and Baird have given us." — Artizan. 

" In this work he has given us what are called 'the secrets of the 
business,' in the rules to construct locomotives, in order that the mil- 
lion should be learned in all things." — Scientific American. 

Nj strom, A Treatise on Screw-Propellers and 
their Steam-Engines; 

With Practical Rules and Examples "by which to Calcu- 
late and Construct the same for any description of Ves- 
sels. By J. W. Nystrom. Illustrated by over thirty 
large Working Drawings. In one volume, octavo. ..$3. 50 
16 



PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 

Overman. The Manufacture of Iron in all its 
Various Branches; 

To which is added an Essay on the Manufacture of Steel. 
By Frederick Overman, Mining Engineer. With one 
hundred and fifty Wood Engravings. Third edition. In 
one volume, octavo, five hundred pages $6.00 

" We have now to announce the appearance of another valuable 
work on the subject, whioh, in our humble opinion, supplies any defi- 
ciency which late improvements and discoveries may have caused, 
from "the lapse of time since the date of • Mushet' and ' Schrivenor.' 
It is the production of one of our Trans- Atlantic brethren, Mr. Fred- 
erick Overman, Mining Engineer ; and we do not hesitate to set it 
down as a work of great importance to all connected with the iron in- 
terests ; one which, while it is sufficiently technological fully to ex- 
plain chemical analysis, and the various phenomena of iron under 
different circumstances, to the satisfaction of the most fastidious, is 
written in that clear and comprehensive style as to be available to the 
capacity of the humblest mind ; and consequently will be of much ad- 
vantage to those works where the proprietors may see the desirability 
of placing it in the hands of their operatives." — London Mining 
Journal. 

Painter, Gilder and Varnisher's Companion; 

Containing Rules and Regulations in everything relating 
to the Arts of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing and Glass 
Staining ; with numerous useful and valuable Receipts ; 
Tests for the detection of Adulterations in Oils and 
Colors ; and a statement of the Diseases and Accidents to 
which Painters, Gilders and Varnishers are particularly 
liable, with the simplest methods of Prevention and 
Remedy. Eighth edition. To which are added Complete 
Instructions in Graining, Marbling, Sign Writing, and 
Gilding on Glass. 12mo., cloth 75 

Paper-Hanger's (The) Companion; 

In which the Practical Operations of the Trade are sys- 
tematically laid down ; with copious Directions Prepara- 
tory to Papering ; Preventions against the effect of Damp 
in Walls ; the various Cements and Pastes adapted to 
the several purposes of the Trade ; Observations and Di- 
rections for the Panelling and Ornamenting of Rooms, 
etc., etc. By James Arrowsmith. In one volume, 
12mo 75 

Practical (The) Surveyor's Guide; 

Containing the necessary information to make any per- 
son of common capacity a finished Land Survevor, with- 

* 17 



PBACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 

out the aid of a Teacher. By Andrew Duncan, Land 
Surveyor and Civil Engineer. 12mo 75 

Having had an experience as a Practical Surveyor, etc., of thirty- 
years, it is believed that the author of this volume possesses a thorough 
knowledge of the wants of the profession ; and never having met with 
any work sufficiently concise and instructive in the several details 
necessary for the proper qualification of the Surveyor, it has been his 
object to supply that want. Among other important matters in the 
book, will be found the following : 

Instructions in levelling and profiling, with a new and speedy plan 
of setting grades on rail and plank roads— the method of inflecting 
curves — the description and design of a new instrument, whereby dis- 
tances are found at once, without any calculation — a new method of 
surveying any tract of land by measuring one line through it — a geo- 
metrical method of correcting surveys taken with the compass, to fit 
them for calculation — a short method of finding the angles from the 
courses, and vice versa — the method of surveying with the compass 
through any mine or iron works, and to correct the deflections of the 
needle by attraction— description of an instrument by the help of 
which any one may measure a map by inspection, without calculation 
— a new and short method of calculation, wherein fewer figures are 
used — the method of correcting the diurnal variation of the needle 
— various methods of plotting and embellishing maps — the most cor- 
rect method of laying off" plots with the pole, etc.— description of a 
new compass contrived by the author, etc., etc. 

Railroad Engineer's Pocket Companion for the 
Field. 

By W. Griswold. 12mo., tucks $1.00 

Riddell. The Elements of Hand-Railing; 

Being the most Complete and Original Exposition of this 
Branch of Carpentry that has appeared. By Robert 
Riddell. Third edition. Enlarged and improved. Il- 
lustrated by 22 large plates. 4to., cloth $3.00 

Rural Chemistry; 

An Elementary Introduction to the Study of the Science, 
in its relation to Agriculture and the Arts of Life. By 
Edward Solly, Professor of Chemistry in the Horticul- 
tural Society of London. From the third improved Lon- 
don edition. 12mo $1.25 

Shunk. A Practical Treatise 

On Railway Curves, and Location for Young Engineers. 
By Wm. F. Shunk, Civil Engineer. 12mo $1.00 

Strength and Other Properties of Metals; 

Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Pro- 
18 



PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 

perties of Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the 
Machines for Testing Metals, and of the Classification of 
Cannon in service. By Officers of the Ordnance Depart- 
ment U. S. Army. By authority of the Secretary of 
War. Illustrated by 25 large steel plates. In one vol- 
ume, quarto $10.00 

The best Treatise on Cast-iron extant. 

Tables Showing the Weight 

Of Round, Square and Flat Bar Iron, Steel, etc., by 
Measurement. Cloth 50 

Taylor, Statistics of Coal; 

Including Mineral Bituminous Substances employed in 
Arts and Manufactures ; with their Geographical, Geo- 
logical and Commercial Distribution, and Amount of Pro- 
duction and Consumption on the American Continent. 
With Incidental Statistics of the Iron Manufacture. By 
R. C. Taylor. Second edition, revised by S. S. Halde- 
man. Illustrated by five Maps and many Wood Engrav- 
ings. 8vo., cloth §6.00 

Templeton, The Practical Examinator on 
Steam and the Steam Engine ; 

With Instructive References relative thereto, arranged 
for the use of Engineers, Students, and others. By Wm. 
Templeton, Engineer. 12mo 75 

This work was originally written for the author's private use. He 
was prevailed upon by various Engineers, who had seen the notes, to 
consent to its publication, from their eager expression of belief that 
it would be equally useful to them as it had been to himself. 

Tin and Sheet Iron Worker's Instructor; 

Comprising complete Descriptions of the necessary Pat- 
terns and Machinery, and the Processes of Calculating 
Dimensions, Cutting, Joining, Raising, Soldering, etc., 
etc. With numerous Illustrations. (In press.) 

Treatise (A) on a Box of Instruments, 

And the Slide Rule ; with the Theory of Trigonometry 
and Logarithms, including Practical Geometry, Survey 
ing, Measuring of Timber, Cask and Malt Gauging, 

19 



PKACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 

Heights and Distances. By Thomas Kentish. In one 
volume, 12mo $1.00 

A volume of inestimable value to Engineers, Gaugers, Students, and 
others. 

Turnbiill. The Electro-Magnetic Telegraph; 

With an Historical Account of its Rise, Progress, and 
Present Condition. Also, Practical Suggestions in regard 
to Insulation and Protection from the Effects of Light- 
ning. Together with an Appendix containing several 
important Telegraphic Devices and Laws. By Lawrence 
Turnbull, M. D., Lecturer on Technical Chemistry at the 
Franklin Institute. Second edition. Revised and im- 
proved. Illustrated by numerous Engravings. 8vo..$2.00 

Turner's (The) Companion; 

Containing Instruction in Concentric, Elliptic and Eccen- 
tric Turning ; also various Steel Plates of Chucks, Tools 
and Instruments ; and Directions for Using the Eccentric 
Cutter, Drill, Vertical Cutter and Rest ; with Patterns 
and Instructions for working them. 12mo., cloth 75 

Bell, Carpentry Made Easy; 

Or, The Science and Art of Framing, on a New and Im- 
proved System ; with Specific Instructions for Building 
Balloon Frames, Barn Frames, Mill Frames, Warehouses, 
Church Spires, etc. ; comprising also a System of Bridge 
Building ; with Bills, Estimates of Cost, and Valuable 
Tables. Illustrated by 38 plates, comprising nearly 200 
figures. By William E. Bell, Architect and Practical 
Builder. 8vo $3.60 



SOCIAL SCIENCE. 

THE WORKS OP HENRY C. CAREY. 



" I challenge the production from among the writers on political 
economy of a more learned, philosophical, and convincing speculator 
on that'theme, than my distinguished fellow-citizen, Henry C. Carey. 
The works he has published in support of the protective policy, are 
remarkable for profound research, extensive range of inquiry, rare 
logical acumen, and a consummate knowledge of history." — Speech of 
Hon. Edward Joy Morris, in the House of Representatives of the United 
States, February 2, 1859. 
20 



PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 
THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY. 

" Henry C. Carey, the best known and ablest economist of North 
America. ***** in Europe he is principally known by his 
striking and original attacks, based upon the peculiar advantages of 
American experience, on, some of the principal doctrines, especially 
Malthus' ' Theory of Population' and Ricardo's teachings. His views 
have been largely adopted and thoroughly discussed in Europe." — 
u The German Political Lexicon," Edited by Bluntschli and Brater. Leipsic, 
1858. 

" We believe that your labors mark an era in the science of political 
economy. To your researches and lucid arguments are we indebted 
for the explosion of the absurdities of Malthus, Say, and Ricardo, in 
regard to the inability of the earth to meet the demands of a growing 
population. American industry owes you a debt which cannot be re- 
paid, and which it will ever be proud to acknowledge. — From a Letter 
of Hon. George W. Scranton, M. C, Hon. William Jessup, and over sixty 
influential citizens of Luzerne County, Pennsylvania, to Henry C. Carey, 
April 3, 1859. 

Financial Crises; 

Their Causes and Effects. 8vo., paper 25 

French and American Tariffs, 

Compared in a Series of Letters addressed to Mons. M. 
Chevalier. 8vo., paper 15 

Harmony (The) of Interests; 

Agricultural, Manufacturing and Commercial. 8vo., 

paper 75 

Cloth $1.25 

" We can safely recommend this remarkable work to all who wish 
to investigate the causes of the progress or decline of industrial com- 
munities."— Blackwood's Magazine. 

Letters to the President of the United States, 

8vo., Paper 50 



Miscellaneous Works; 



Comprising "Harmony of Interests," "Money," "Let- 
ters to the President," "French and American Tariffs," 
and " Financial Crises." One volume, 8vo., half bound. 

$2.25 



Money; A Lecture 



Before the New York Geographical and Statistical So- 
ciety. 8vo., paper 15 

21 



PBACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 



THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY. 



Past (The), the Present, and the Future, 



8vo. 



S2.00 



12mo $1.25 

"Full of important facta bearing on topics that are now agitatin? 
all Europe. * * * These quotations will only whet the appetite 
of the scientific reader to devour the whole work. It is a book full of 
valuable information. "—Economist. 

■■ Decidedly a book to be read by all who take an interest in the pro- 
gress of social science."— Spectator. 

"A Southern man myself, never given to tariff doctrines, I confess to 
have been convinced by his reasoning, and, thank Heaven, have not 
now to learn the difference between dogged obstinacy and consistency. 

Ye gods give us but light !' should be the motto of every inquirer 
after truth, but for far different and better purposes than that which 
prompted the exclamation.''— The late John S. Skinner. 

" A volume of extensive information, deep thought, hi?h intelli- 
gence, and moreover of material utility.''— London Morning Advertiser. 

"Emanating from an active intellect, remarkable for distinct views 
and sincere convictions."— Britannia. 

" ' The Past Present, and Future,' is a vast summary of progressive 
philosophy, wherein he demonstrates the benefit of political economy 
in the onward progress of mankind, which, ruled and directed by over- 
whelming influences of an exterior nature, advances little by little 
until these exterior influences are rendered subservient in their turn! 
to increase as much as possible the extent of their wealth and riches " 
—Dictwnnaire Lniversel des Contemporains. Par G. Vapereau. Paris, 

Principles of Social Science, 

Three volumes, 8vo., cloth $7.59 

♦h??? T ?^T S -r-™*™ *• 9 f s «ence and its Methods-Of Man, 
the Subject of Social Science-Of Increase in the Numbers of Mankind 
-Of the Occupation of the Earth-Of Value-Of Wealth-Of the For- 
m ?&°5 °i So 9 ie }y-pl Appropriation-Of Changes of Matter in Place 
,r ^ nical and Chemical Changes in the Forms of Matter Vol- 
ume II. Of Vital Changes in the Form of Matter— Of the Instrument 
of Assoc.ahon. Volume III. Of Production and Consumption-Of 
Aecumulation-Of Circulation-Of Distribution-Of Concentration 
and Centralization-Of Competition-Of Population-Of Food and 
Population-Of Colonization— Of the Malthusian Theory-Of Com- 
merce—Of the Societary Organization— Of Social Science. 

1 Jh5Ji=r e ,^- de8i ? e ^ e « e t° re P roach Mr. Malthus with the extreme 
lightness of his scientific baggage. In his day, biology, animal and 
vegetable chemistry, the relations of the various portions of the hu- 
man organism, etc. etc. had made but little progress, and it is to the 
genera ignorance in reference to these questions that we must, as I 
think look for explanation of the fact that he should, with 30 much 
confidence in reference to so very grave a subject, have ventured to 
suggest a formula so arbitrary in its character, and one whose hollow- 
ness becomes now so clearly manifest. Mr. Carey's advantage over 
~™ ' . a l 1° fa ? ts a ? d loglc ' is certainly due in great part to the 
progress that has since been made in all the science! connected with 
lite ; but then, how admirably has he profited of them ! How entirely 
is he aucourant of all these branches of knowledge which, whether 



PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 
THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY. 

directly or indirectly, bear upon his subject ! With what skill does he 
ask of each and every of them all that it can be made to furnish, 
whether of facts or arguments ! With what elevated views, and 
what amplitude of means, does he go forward in hi* work ! Above 
all, how thorough in his scientific caution ! Accumulating inductions, 
and presenting for consideration facts the most undoubted and proba- 
bilities of the highest kind, he yet affirms nothing, contenting himself 
with showing that his opponent had no good reason for affirming the 
nature of the progression, nor the time of duplication, nor the gene- 
ralization which takes the facts of an individual case and deduces 
from them a law for every race, every climate, every civilization, 
every condition, moral or physical, permanent and transient, 
healthj- or unhealthy, of the various populations of the many coun- 
tries of the world. Then, having reduced the theory to the level of a 
mere hvpothesis, he crushes it to atoms under the weight of facts." — 
M. De Pontenay in the " Journal des Economistes." Paris, September, 1862. 

" This book is so abundantly full of notices, facts, comparisons, cal- 
culations, and arguments, that too much would be lost by laying a 
part of it before the eye of the reader. The work is vast and severe 
in its conception and aim, and is far removed from the common run 
of the books on similar subjects."— 11 Mondo Letterario, Turin. 

" In political economy, America is represented by one of the 
strongest and most original writers of the age, Henry C. Carey, of 
Philadelphia. *********** 

" His theory of Rents is regarded as a complete demonstration that 
the popular views derived from Ricardo are erroneous ; and on the 
subject of Protection, he is generally confessed to be the master- 
thinker of his country." — Westminster Review. 

" Both in America and oh the Continent, Mr. Henry Carey has ac- 
quired a great name as a political economist. ***** 

" His refutation of Malthus and Ricardo we consider most triumph- 
ant."— London Critic. 

" Mr. Carey began his publication of Principles twenty years ago ; 
he is certainly a mature and deliberate writer. More than this, he is 
readable : his pages swarm with illustrative facts and with American 
instances. ************ 

" We are in great charity with books which, like Mr. Carey's, theo- 
rize with excessive boldness, when the author, as does Mr. Carey, 
possesses information and reasoning power."— London Athenccum. 

" Those who would fight against the insatiate greed and unscrupu- 
lous misrepresentations of the Manchester school, which we have fre- 
quently exposed, without any of their organs having ever dared to 
make reply, will find in this and Mr. Carey's other works an immense 
store of arms and ammunition. ******** 

•' An author who has, among the political economists of Germany 
and France, numerous readers, is worth attentive perusal in Eng- 
land." — London Statesman. 

" Of all the varied answers to the old cry of human nature, ' Who 
will show us any good V none are more sententious than Mr. Carey's. 
He says to Kings, Presidents, and People, ' Keep the nation at work, 
and the greater the variety of employments the better.' He is seek- 
ing and elucidating the great radical laws of matter as regards man. 
He is at once the apostle and evangelist of temporal righteousness." 
— National Intelligencer. 

" A work which we believe to be the greatest ever written by an 
American, and one which will in future ages be pointed out as the 
most successful effort of its time to form the great scientia scientiarum." 
—Philadelphia Evening Bulletin. 

23 



PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY. 

The Slave Trade, Domestic and Foreign; 

Why it Exists, and How it may be Extinguished. 12mo., 
cloth $1.25 

CONTENTS.— The Wide Extent of Slavery— Of Slavery in the 
British Colonies— Of Slavery in the United States— Of Emancipation 
in the British Colonies — How Man passes from Poverty and Slavery 
toward Wealth and Freedom — How Wealth tends to Increase — How 
Labor acquires Value and Man becomes Free — How Man passes from 
Wealth and Freedom toward Poverty and Slavery — How Slavery 
grew, and How it is now maintained in the West Indies — How Slavery 
grew, and is maintained in the United States — How Slavery grows in 
Portugal and Turkey— How Slavery grows in India— How Slavery 
grows in Ireland and Scotland — How Slavery grows in England — 
How can Slavery be extinguished] — How Freedom grows in Northern 
Germany— How* Freedom grows in Russia— How Freedom grows in 
Denmark — How Freedom grows in Spain and Belgium — Of the Duty 
of the People of the United States— Of the Duty ofthe People of Eng- 
land. 

" As a philosophical writer, Mr. Carey is remarkable for the union 
of comprehensive generalizations with "a copious induction of facts. 
His research of principles never leads him to the neglect of details ; 
nor is his accumulation of instances ever at the expense of universal 
truth. He is, doubtless, intent on the investigation of laws, as the 
appropriate aim of science, but no passion for- theory seduces him 
into the region of pure speculation. His mind is no less historical 
than philosophical, and had he not chosen the severer branch in 
which his studies have borne such excellent fruit, he would have 
attained an eminent rank among the historians from whom the litera- 
ture of our country has received such signal illustration."— New.- York 
Tribune. ' 



French Politico-Economic Controversy, 

Between the Supporters of the Doctrines of Carey and 
of those of Ricakdo and Malthds. By MM. De Fonteuay, 
Dupuit, Baudrillart, and others. Translated from the 
"Journal des Economistes," 1862-63. (Li press.) 

Protection of Home Labor and Home Produc- 
tions 

Necessary to the Prosperity of the American Farmer. 
By H. C. Baird. Paper 13 

Smith, A Manual of Political Economy, 

By E. Peshine Smith. 12mo., cloth $1.25 

24 



